What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Jonah52]

I really was looking at getting an 04 and up manual cummins or a 2008 and up LTZ Duramax...Or a loaded 1500 and lift it.

 

[07Burb]

I'll be honest. I pad like $16,700 out the door. I've got about another $2k between all the crap in my sig and maintenance and stuff. So a $17k offer is like $1500 below breaking even, but I also put 10k miles on it since March. So what do you guys think? I don't have to or really want to sell it. It's so clean. There's nothing that could replace it in the same condition and same level of options...

If it's me and I'm the owner with the same numbers my number would be more like $20k. My thing is that if there's not a for sale sign on it or a CL ad on it then I've got leverage. As far the person knows I don't wanna sell so they need to pay a premium to get it from me. If I'm actively trying to sell then 17k it is.

 

[Jonah52]

it still books for just shy of $21k and like I said I don't have to or necessarily want to sell it. My payment is minuscule, its in excellent shape and I can;t replace it with a truck I want in the same condition for similar prices

 

[Clean07Burb]

Thanks, truck is finally coming together. At some point here I'll make a build thread, but have a ton of things in my life that aren't letting me finish the truck.

Tires are 305/35/24 Nitto 420s. They rub like crazy until you do some trimming. They also hookup WAY better than the stockers did. Even with the Whipple and other mods they don't spin hardly at all where the stockers just got lit up everywhere.

Rear trimming: (front just requires some bending which I'll get to this week, lol)

Yeah, I trimmed my rear liners in pretty much the exact same places you did. And my front rub so minimally that I could probably just use a heat gun to mold the liners in a bit. Like they barely even touch at all in the front of my Burb right now.

---------- Post added at 05:12 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:08 PM ----------

You can pop two holes and zip tie it back a Lil more to the top of the strut bolt area if you don't want to cut.

You mean on the front liners? Tell me more about this because mine BARELY rub at all up front, but I'd really prefer them to not rub at all without trimming the liners. Unless I'm not uderstanding you correctly, if I cut two holes and zip tied my front liners to the upper strut mounting bolts then it would be pulling the front liner in further towards the tire and it would rub even more when turning sharply.

 

[08grey]

I meant the back. For the front you need to bang the metal in some behind the liner.

 

[Deephaven]

I meant the back. For the front you need to bang the metal in some behind the liner.

How/where do you put the 2x4? I tried but couldn't get it to do s%*!

 

[08grey]

I just peeled back my liner and went at it with a sledge hammer then spray painted on top and sealed it back up.

 

[Clean07Burb]

I just peeled back my liner and went at it with a sledge hammer then spray painted on top and sealed it back up.

That wouldn't do any good on the front of my truck because mine just barely touch the liners themselves. They aren't rubbing so bad that they're pushing the liners back into the body, but they are just slightly rubbing it. I think my best bet is to just take a heat gun to the front liners and massage them in a little bit.

---------- Post added at 12:03 AM ---------- Previous post was Yesterday at 11:50 PM ----------

How/where do you put the 2x4? I tried but couldn't get it to do s%*!

See, yours probably rub so bad because you went with those bigger 305/35/24's. That's why I want to go with a 295/35/24 when I step up to my 24's because they are the same exact height as your factory 285/45/22's were on your stock 22" Esky wheels. They are both 32.1" tall, but they are just a touch wider by about a half an inch. I'm thinking with these dimensions of the 295/35/24, they'll barely rub once I go to 24's. In fact, they might not even rub at all because their heighth is just a tad wider and their wiidth is actually slimmer than my current 305/40/22's, which BARELY rub as it is and they'll still look good. They won't look like silly little rubber bands or anything. Lol. So with the minute difference in extra height and not being as wide as my current tires, I'm hoping I'll get lucky and they'll even out and just barely touch like they do now or if I get really lucky they won't rub at all.

 

[Bruizza]

Bought a sub box with 4 kicker 10s in it.

 

[Deephaven]

See, yours probably rub so bad because you went with those bigger 305/35/24's. That's why I want to go with a 295/35/24 when I step up to my 24's because they are the same exact height as your factory 285/45/22's were on your stock 22" Esky wheels. They are both 32.1" tall, but they are just a touch wider by about a half an inch. I'm thinking with these dimensions of the 295/35/24, they'll barely rub once I go to 24's. In fact, they might not even rub at all because their heighth is just a tad wider and their wiidth is actually slimmer than my current 305/40/22's, which BARELY rub as it is and they'll still look good. They won't look like silly little rubber bands or anything. Lol. So with the minute difference in extra height and not being as wide as my current tires, I'm hoping I'll get lucky and they'll even out and just barely touch like they do now or if I get really lucky they won't rub at all.

Just to clarify, mine rubbing bad as a comment is extreme. I don't like ANYTHING to not feel like it should. It is only one spot in the turn radius where they do now. That will be rectified this week.

I'd have a hard time not doing the 305's. The way that the 295's fit on the wheels doesn't look right to me....and I need the traction