What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[j91z28d1]

I have been wanting to get one for well over a decade now, just never went through with the purchase.
My 2002 Alitma with the 3.5 can be a pain to get all the air bubbles out of the cooling system, mainly due to radiator being quite a bit lower than the top of the engine.
Maybe I will have to give this one a try, but I hate to buy anything now since I am packing up the house to move.

I need one as well. but just not sure which one. my volt as a whole cooling system for the batteries. uses dexcool that's non conductive, but it's 10 years old at this point. I really need to change it, but it's impossible to bleed. you gotta vac fill. I've considered just taking it to a dealer and pay for a flush. but then I remember they have no idea what they are doing these days and anyone trained to work on them would be long gone by now. so I am just going to have to suck it up and buy the tool and do it myself. ugh I hate that we don't have any mechanics left at dealerships that if even trust a oil change

 

[j91z28d1]

I've always, for years, would have the heat on full blast (after the tstat opened of course) when topping/filling the radiator. That'd also mean the rear heat on vehicles that had it. Then just squeeze the upper hose for a bit to burp anything out.

I believe I've read that it's the correct way to do it somewhere, but every car is different it seems. I work on some much random stuff and don't trust my memory enough to say for sure but that sounds correction

 

[89Suburban]

And rev the hell out of it for a bit to purge all those heater cores/lines.

 

[Doubeleive]

maybe that's why I have never had a problem with coolant/radiator changes I take it out and run it up to about 100mph and then I pull back in and TOP IT OFF. if it even needs it.
good way to check if it is going to leak also.

 

[Just Fishing]

maybe that's why I have never had a problem with coolant/radiator changes I take it out and run it up to about 100mph and then I pull back in and TOP IT OFF. if it even needs it.
good way to check if it is going to leak also.

You weirdo!!

 

[Doubeleive]

You weirdo!!

Lol

 

[Charlie207]

So there are bolts that go through the diff housing themselves into the diff mount brackets aren't there? Then the diff mount bolts are different? I was under the understanding the bolts going through the diff housing into the brackets were threaded holes with no nuts and the diff mou8nt bolts had the nuts? I am pulling mine out soon so I am trying to clarify all this.

There are four mounting points that hold the front diff to the truck. On the driver's side there are two frame mounts that have bolts pointed down, with nuts accessible from underneath. The bolt heads are (for now) very hard to access.

In the videos I watched to prepare for this they make it look easy (it actually is), and just zip them off with impact guns. For whatever reason the nuts only loosened a little bit, free-spun to the moon.

The passenger side nuts came off easy-peasy. They actually attach to a intermediate, short, fore-aft mount that is itself bolted to the frame. Ignore that intermediate part, and just unbolt the diff.

There is access to put a socket on top of one of the free-spinning (driver's side) bolts, but I'll have to remove the wheel to have any hope of using two hands to reach both sides of the bolt. The other bolt is buried under the steering rack, and I didn't even bother trying to figure that one out. It's like 95 degrees with all teh humidity here. Like I said before, it'll probably have to be addressed when I pull the engine.

 

[89Suburban]

There are four mounting points that hold the front diff to the truck. On the driver's side there are two frame mounts that have bolts pointed down, with nuts accessible from underneath. The bolt heads are (for now) very hard to access.

In the videos I watched to prepare for this they make it look easy (it actually is), and just zip them off with impact guns. For whatever reason the nuts only loosened a little bit, free-spun to the moon.

The passenger side nuts came off easy-peasy. They actually attach to a intermediate, short, fore-aft mount that is itself bolted to the frame. Ignore that intermediate part, and just unbolt the diff.

There is access to put a socket on top of one of the free-spinning (driver's side) bolts, but I'll have to remove the wheel to have any hope of using two hands to reach both sides of the bolt. The other bolt is buried under the steering rack, and I didn't even bother trying to figure that one out. It's like 95 degrees with all teh humidity here. Like I said before, it'll probably have to be addressed when I pull the engine.

What if you use a pry bar to torque the housing laterally and put clamping pressure on the bolts?


This is one of the videos I was referencing planning for mine. He says to remove the crossmember as well.

 

[Just Fishing]

I have had my front diff in and out several times.
It's pretty easy.

First un bolt the cvs at the diff, use a cheap ratchet strap to compress them.
That will keep them from being in the way, exp when reinstalling the diff.

Remove the front cross member,.
Disconnect the drive shaft and push it out of the way. Bungi cords to keep it clear if you need to.

Then disconnect the wiring.

Then finally, with a jack to support the diff, remove the 4 bolts and lower it down and out!

I like to use a motorcycle jack since i have one i setup for removing transmissions.

 

[89Suburban]

There are four mounting points that hold the front diff to the truck. On the driver's side there are two frame mounts that have bolts pointed down, with nuts accessible from underneath. The bolt heads are (for now) very hard to access.

In the videos I watched to prepare for this they make it look easy (it actually is), and just zip them off with impact guns. For whatever reason the nuts only loosened a little bit, free-spun to the moon.

The passenger side nuts came off easy-peasy. They actually attach to a intermediate, short, fore-aft mount that is itself bolted to the frame. Ignore that intermediate part, and just unbolt the diff.

There is access to put a socket on top of one of the free-spinning (driver's side) bolts, but I'll have to remove the wheel to have any hope of using two hands to reach both sides of the bolt. The other bolt is buried under the steering rack, and I didn't even bother trying to figure that one out. It's like 95 degrees with all teh humidity here. Like I said before, it'll probably have to be addressed when I pull the engine.

So the bolts I circled in green are the ones I thought were "fixed" or "threaded" holes that would not spin out on you or require a wrench on top? The ones in red I am sure they will spin.