What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?
- Thread starter phattyford
- Start date
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ACM
Member
Nice. I usually OWB an FDE Beretta Nano in the Tahoe, been thinking about getting the Alien Gear vehicle cloak dock system.
Hit 142k tonight....
Don't stress about it! I just rolled over 225k the other night and I'll probably be hitting 226k within a week or two.
Swapped out my license plate lights yesterday with some free LEDs that came with my Anzo headlights and HIDs. Made the appointment for next week: getting a Dynomax muffler, the updated valve cover design, a catch can, and the housings/HIDs installed!
93blkongreenpro
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I'll have to look into the AGCS. This $7 go magnet is pretty legit. The Shield doesn't budge
Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
I ordered a similar kit off Amazon a few months ago. Got front and rears for something like 185 bucks. So far so good. Made a noticeable difference in stopping power over stock.
The only beef I have is that the pads were advertised to be "lowest brake dust and most advanced material available" (what ever that means, LOL...), they do dust quite a bit. After cleaning wheels, you can easily see the dust on them in less than a week. Oh well...
iamdub
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Nature of slotted rotors. The edges of the slots are like knives and they constantly shave away pad material as they're used.
HiHoeSilver
Away!
Dead on, as per usual. It does also, however, account for most of the "noticeable difference" in stopping power. Those slots are adding WAY more friction to the equation.
08HoeCD
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I'm no brake engineer but I question the notion of slots in rotors acting as a cutting area on pads.
These slots appear to be valleys without edges that are raised, or proud, of the flat rotor surface, and they are angled relative the the pads' passing over them. Can they truly serve to cut the pad? Very curious.
It's been my understanding that slotted rotors perform a bit better, but not dramatically better, than solid surface rotors because they facilitate better heat dispersion and minimize glazing, not because they facilitate better bite by virtue of cutting action.
Discuss.
These slots appear to be valleys without edges that are raised, or proud, of the flat rotor surface, and they are angled relative the the pads' passing over them. Can they truly serve to cut the pad? Very curious.
It's been my understanding that slotted rotors perform a bit better, but not dramatically better, than solid surface rotors because they facilitate better heat dispersion and minimize glazing, not because they facilitate better bite by virtue of cutting action.
Discuss.
Danny3737
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I've used slotted/drilled rotors a few times. They do help a little in my opinion, but have to be replaced more often. I prefer just upgrading to larger rotors and pads.
Drok
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All washed and ready for some trinova wax
iamdub
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True, the better quality slotted rotors have slots with more of a radiused edge and angled wall than just a sharp corner. But, it's still a flat rotor surface that meets a void. The pad material, on a microscopic level, is still deflecting (being "squished") into this void. The harder the braking- the more that is squished into the void and the more material that is shaved. Yes, this provides more friction. But the primary function of the slot is to evacuate the gasses and heat formed under braking while channeling in ambient air- all which help to cool the rotor and pad which prevents glazing, fading and warping.
I'm a believer in their function. Years back, when cryo-tempered rotors were new to the general market, Powerslot teamed up with a cryogenics company to produce their "Frozen Rotors" line. I had one of the first, if not THE first set on my S10. I was a total ******* to those rotors for 11 years/70,000 miles until I sold the truck. Went through 3 sets of Hawk HP pads (never turned the rotors). I could stand on the brake pedal from 120MPH+ and never get so much as a pull or shimmy in the steering wheel and the brakes bit just as hard as always. The last 20,000 miles I had the truck, the pads were being squished even harder by a hydrabooster. The only thing I ever noticed after all this braking asshattery was a notably heavier coating of dust on the wheels.
I'll use my soapbox time here to give my review on PowerStop rotors. I thought the cryo-tempered rotors from PowerStop were the same as the Frozen PowerSlot. I don't believe they are, or maybe the quality of the base rotor is less. I think PowerStop, PowerSlot, Stop Tech, etc. are all one and the same, using Centric rotors. Assuming I was replicating what I had on my S10, I installed some cryo-tempered PowerStops and Hawk LTS pads (LTS since it's a full-size vehicle). I performed a break-in process by combining PowerStop and Hawk's recommended procedures as they were a little different but not really conflicting. The brakes felt great with more bite than stock and the warping was gone. A few days later, I drove to Tampa, Florida. While slowing down to a red light, the damned warping was back. I hadn't done ANY hard braking. It was less than 1,000 miles, 800+ of which was interstate driving with no brake use, and no hard braking before they started their bucking shit again. I keep seeing positive reviews on R1 rotors so I think I'm gonna give them a shot. These bite great and all, but I can't stand the feelings of warped rotors.
