What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[wjburken]

I need this too. My driver’s door can sound nasty if I don’t lube it every few months. But I heard replacing them involves taking the whole door off? Seems like too much work for me!

I have typically replaced the whole hinge assembly but even that doesn’t require removing the door completely. Get a jack and some padding and a friend to support the door and you can do it with the door in place.

 

[Tonyrodz]

we had 2 of these, canary yellow

I've seen the yellow ones before. Did they have white or very light yellowish leather interiors? I once saw a hot rodded 77/78 Seville in NY! Was jacked up in the rear with huge tires sticking out of the quarters. Was black primered with long tubes on it lol. Def different.

 

[Sam Harris]

Looking at replacing the door hinge that is noisy as hell. I used grease for a while but the bushing is just too worn out at this point. Should I go with dorman or go back to oem? The price difference is like $60 dorman for $33 and oem for $92 I think.

I’d definitely go OEM, unless this seems like a 5-minute job, then go for the Dorman part. [emoji16][emoji106]

 

[5strmtrp]

we had 2 of these, canary yellow

The last surviving one we have is in the garage a ‘77 IIRC. Untouched since 1985! Sky blue on blue interior.
Mom in law wants to get it out and have us restore it. We have the one pictured earlier that isn’t running to well anymore and another one that’s strictly a parts car. So with 3 we might make it work.

Plan to put in a LS motor and update the electrics on it. Hopefully we can get that project going soon.

 

[Tonyrodz]

The last surviving one we have is in the garage a ‘77 IIRC. Untouched since 1985! Sky blue on blue interior.
Mom in law wants to get it out and have us restore it. We have the one pictured earlier that isn’t running to well anymore and another one that’s strictly a parts car. So with 3 we might make it work.

Plan to put in a LS motor and update the electrics on it. Hopefully we can get that project going soon.

That would be a cool project.

 

[Kee Fuller]

I've seen the yellow ones before. Did they have white or very light yellowish leather interiors? I once saw a hot rodded 77/78 Seville in NY! Was jacked up in the rear with huge tires sticking out of the quarters. Was black primered with long tubes on it lol. Def different.

yup, canary yellow interior too

 

[Tonyrodz]

yup, canary yellow interior too

I've actually seen those in that combo, along with Coupe Devilles.

 

[iamdub]

Looking at replacing the door hinge that is noisy as hell. I used grease for a while but the bushing is just too worn out at this point. Should I go with dorman or go back to oem? The price difference is like $60 dorman for $33 and oem for $92 I think.

I have no personal experience with this on these rigs, just on an S-series. I wouldn't be surprised if it ended up being the Dorman parts costing 1/3 as much, but lasting 1/3 as long as OEM, if even that long. They may be fine, though. Thinking back, I may have used the Dorman hinge pin and bushing kit on the S-series. What I can say is, regardless which one you get, DO NOT try to tap the bushings in. You have to align them properly and press them in. I used a long and thin bolt, washers, nut and a socket to make a press. Also, I put the window down and hung the door from a tree branch with a ratchet strap through the frame. This eliminates relying on a helper to balance the door on a jack while you work and you can ease the weight off the door with the strap to get it right where you want it. Just don't do this on a windy day. Rafters in a garage would work as well. Oh, and put a few layers of painter's tape on the edges of the door and fender before you start. I also slipped a once-folded shop rag between the fender and door to act as a bumper.

 

[Doubeleive]

Looking at replacing the door hinge that is noisy as hell. I used grease for a while but the bushing is just too worn out at this point. Should I go with dorman or go back to oem? The price difference is like $60 dorman for $33 and oem for $92 I think.

they must have changed the design on my 2012 the bottom hinge does not appear to be easily serviceable, the hinge would need to be replaced or removed and some parts punched out the fulcrum bolt is pressed in and has a mushroom head

 

[CHOO CHOO]

I have no personal experience with this on these rigs, just on an S-series. I wouldn't be surprised if it ended up being the Dorman parts costing 1/3 as much, but lasting 1/3 as long as OEM, if even that long. They may be fine, though. Thinking back, I may have used the Dorman hinge pin and bushing kit on the S-series. What I can say is, regardless which one you get, DO NOT try to tap the bushings in. You have to align them properly and press them in. I used a long and thin bolt, washers, nut and a socket to make a press. Also, I put the window down and hung the door from a tree branch with a ratchet strap through the frame. This eliminates relying on a helper to balance the door on a jack while you work and you can ease the weight off the door with the strap to get it right where you want it. Just don't do this on a windy day. Rafters in a garage would work as well. Oh, and put a few layers of painter's tape on the edges of the door and fender before you start. I also slipped a once-folded shop rag between the fender and door to act as a bumper.

they must have changed the design on my 2012 the bottom hinge does not appear to be easily serviceable, the hinge would need to be replaced or removed and some parts punched out the fulcrum bolt is pressed in and has a mushroom head

So what you are both saying is take it to the mechanic. Got it. And I was also just contemplating buying the entire hinge instead of just the pin and bushing. But then again, I have no helper and possibly no available way to strap the door or keep it from leaning.