What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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iamdub

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Just in case anyone is interested, the torsional stiffness varies by the fourth power of the diameter. Put another way, if you keep everything else the same (bar length, material, etc.), and just vary the diameter of the bar, doubling the torsional stiffness of the bar requires only a 19% increase in the diameter.

Because the outside diameter has such a large influence on stiffness, a hollow bar doesn't lose as much stiffness as you'd think, because the material toward the center doesn't contribute very much. Using the example above, if a 1.19" bar is twice as stiff as a 1" bar, a hollow bar with 1.19"OD and 1"ID is just as stiff as a solid 1"OD bar, but only weighs 42% as much (if I did the math right).


Preach. It's the same effect as an I-beam, but rolled into a cylinder. For an I-beam, the strength to resist bending over a long span comes primarily from the height (depth?) of the vertical wall between the two narrower horizontal top and bottom pieces. It's not from the thickness of that vertical wall.
 

the_tool_man

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Preach. It's the same effect as an I-beam, but rolled into a cylinder. For an I-beam, the strength to resist bending over a long span comes primarily from the height (depth?) of the vertical wall between the two narrower horizontal top and bottom pieces. It's not from the thickness of that vertical wall.
Exactly. An I-beam is optimized to concentrate as much material as far apart as possible to minimize weight and provide lots of stiffness against bending.
 

Sparksalot

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Yeah, this truck was in TX and has over 10k hours engine run time. I think it spent a lot of days idling in the desert with the AC on and the under hood temperatures roasting.
I've been thinking about some kind of hood louvers to put on thecopcar to help with heat soak when I'm moving slowly off the beaten path.
 

Just Fishing

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Can anyone recommend a brand of split loom they know to be durable for under hood use? The OEM wire harness loom around the engine is in terrible shape from becoming brittle and a lot of it is completely gone.

On previous projects I’ve used whatever was handy but given the poor performance of what GM used it’s got me thinking about the (lack of) durability of Chinese plastics.

I don’t mind the price for quality stuff. Rather do it once and do it right.

Thanks in advance for any recommendations.


For non split loom, i have been using heatshield products and DEI.
DEI also has some great Velcro heat shielded wire looms.


For split loom, i got a big spool from amazon when i did my boat and yup, you sure get what you pay for!
For the most part, i was just running primaries and lights through the cabin and not anything that would get direct sun or exposed to heat from the engine, so i was fine with it.

Mostly i just used a quality electrical tape to wrap the loom for extra protection (3M).
It was all very heavily shielded marine grade stuff anyways, the plastic loom was just an extra level of protection.

Buy some name brand stuff, better if you can find some with good reviews.
Convoluted Tubing, Wire Looms, and Wire Sleeves | Summit Racing
most of what summit carries should be gtg for the most part.

And reminds me, i need to order some of this crap.
I have a few little sections under the hood i would like to clean up while everything is apart...
:cheers:
 

Charlie207

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I've been thinking about some kind of hood louvers to put on thecopcar to help with heat soak when I'm moving slowly off the beaten path.

An electric aux. fan will probably be a much better option if your "off the beaten path" requires you to drive slow.

The passive louvers aren't going to allow for much airflow at low speeds.
 

Sparksalot

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An electric aux. fan will probably be a much better option if your "off the beaten path" requires you to drive slow.

The passive louvers aren't going to allow for much airflow at low speeds.
I'm not after additional airflow per se. I've got the big fans on the radiator already. I'm thinking about the heat captured under the hood, and allowing for convection to happen.
 

aflumb

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Well after 2 year I finally got the stuff to finish installing DL3 style mirrors on the Tahoe

The new 1aauto mirrors


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When I started this project I found a set of DL3 mirrors and the switches. Total cost $50’ish buck. But the passenger side arm was broke and later found out the motor was broke
de038319f01f219580b34159a3793e45.jpg


So after trying to walk past both vehicles in the garage I was done with avoiding mirrors

(My 17 Mega cab has power folding mirrors)

To get all to work I had to use my factory switch bezels. Passenger side was a direct swap. Drivers side I hade to modify it for the 09 switch to fit

A lot happier now. Now to wait on the sub setup to get in.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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