What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[swathdiver]

Test fit my new spark plug wires that were delivered today.

They were a $42 Amazon Warehouse Deal, listed as new and in the original, but damaged box. The box looked to have taken a razor blade to one side and was crushed a little on the opposite side:

View attachment 368337



I closely inspected all the wires and boots and found no damage. The warranty paper and pouch of dielectric grease was unscathed as well:

View attachment 368338



Excited to have new OE wires that were blue, I went out to compare them and that's when I realized they were different:

View attachment 368339



The overall length is only slightly shorter. It looks like it's stretched tight in this pic, but it's really not. Honestly, I'd run 'em as-is. But, I'll at least investigate lowering the coil packs. If it's just a matter of drilling some holes in the brackets 1/2" or so higher, I'll likely do it. It'll force me to clean and paint the brackets and maybe even wipe the coils clean:

View attachment 368340



For a set of OE wires at half price, I'm happy. No, they're not 20mm, .0001 ohm, plutonium core "race" wires. Running the part number on the wire itself, they're stock for a C6 ZR1. If they'll light off a supercharged 6.2 to 6,500 RPM, they'll do fine on my timid POS.

Never seen either of those wires before, mine are 748UU and are GM OE. I have the square Melco Mitsubishi coils. Yours are the Delphi coils and that may be why they are not familiar to us.

Well, that ain't it either, the Sierra has the round coils and calls for the same wires as mine according to ACDelco's website.

 

[Just Fishing]

Test fit my new spark plug wires that were delivered today.

They were a $42 Amazon Warehouse Deal, listed as new and in the original, but damaged box. The box looked to have taken a razor blade to one side and was crushed a little on the opposite side:

View attachment 368337



I closely inspected all the wires and boots and found no damage. The warranty paper and pouch of dielectric grease was unscathed as well:

View attachment 368338



Excited to have new OE wires that were blue, I went out to compare them and that's when I realized they were different:

View attachment 368339



The overall length is only slightly shorter. It looks like it's stretched tight in this pic, but it's really not. Honestly, I'd run 'em as-is. But, I'll at least investigate lowering the coil packs. If it's just a matter of drilling some holes in the brackets 1/2" or so higher, I'll likely do it. It'll force me to clean and paint the brackets and maybe even wipe the coils clean:

View attachment 368340



For a set of OE wires at half price, I'm happy. No, they're not 20mm, .0001 ohm, plutonium core "race" wires. Running the part number on the wire itself, they're stock for a C6 ZR1. If they'll light off a supercharged 6.2 to 6,500 RPM, they'll do fine on my timid POS.

Nice.
I have gotten good deals off of the warehouse many times.
I have also been screwed a few times too.

When I first got my hoemare, I scored a set of warehouse MSD wires cheap.



I tried it with a starter for the 6.2 last year, and received something not even close to the right part.

 

[iamdub]

Never seen either of those wires before, mine are 748UU and are GM OE. I have the square Melco Mitsubishi coils. Yours are the Delphi coils and that may be why they are not familiar to us.

Well, that ain't it either, the Sierra has the round coils and calls for the same wires as mine according to ACDelco's website.

I've never been able to understand why there are so many variants of OE wires.




I saw 748UU, 'CC, 'GG, 'HH, 'RR, 'VV and 'TT.

748UU looks to be straight boot and black. I'm sure this is what Tom has and likely yours (I'm assuming yours are black).

748CC looks to be the same as 'UU

748GG looks to be the same as 'UU.

748HH looks to be the same as 'UU, but a little longer

748RR has the 90° boot and are red, so I'd assume that's what my current ones are.

748VV are what I just bought, blue, straight boot but slightly shorter and are for the LS9

748TT looks to be the same as 'VV, but red.

 

[RooTBeeRthe1st]

Does the few hundred bucks include the tune/tuning device/tuner to turn on the physical sensor and deactivate the virtual sensor?

No, sorry. Forgot about that part. I've had HP tuners since 2008, sometimes I forget not everybody just has that on hand all the time. Lol

 

[RooTBeeRthe1st]

Well, just spent about $1,500 bucks at BTR the other day, now I'm on summit looking for a couple other little parts that I figure I should do too.
Ordered the truck Norris cam, valve springs push rods, DOD delete, VVT delete, three bolt cam sprocket with arp hardware, arp head studs, OEM valley cover, valve seals, lifters and buckets, ls9 head gaskets... Few other things to make all that happen.

Wondering if I can get a nice ATI balancer that will work well with the Whipple.
Looking to get some roller rockers, because might as well while everything is torn apart.

 

[swathdiver]

...Ordered the truck Norris cam

Seems to be the go to cam these days, interesting to see some quarter mile runs. Engine dynos tell a story but not real world characteristics IMO.

 

[RooTBeeRthe1st]

Seems to be the go to cam these days, interesting to see some quarter mile runs. Engine dynos tell a story but not real world characteristics IMO.

Yeah, and I don't plan to change converter until the trans takes a dump.
Unfortunately I don't have anything but a local 8 mile drag track around here anymore, but they do run every Thursday night.
One of these days before I turned all apart and put that stuff in, I'd like to make a couple passes in the turd and see what it does. I still don't have it tuned other than correcting the maf and raising the rev limiter and playing with some shift timing and line pressure.
But yeah, even though I have a draggy it would be nice to see what the track times actually are in the 1/8th.
Throw those parts on and get it tuned till it's happy, run it again.
And then put the Whipple on after all of that.

 

[Geotrash]

Yeah, and I don't plan to change converter until the trans takes a dump.
Unfortunately I don't have anything but a local 8 mile drag track around here anymore, but they do run every Thursday night.
One of these days before I turned all apart and put that stuff in, I'd like to make a couple passes in the turd and see what it does. I still don't have it tuned other than correcting the maf and raising the rev limiter and playing with some shift timing and line pressure.
But yeah, even though I have a draggy it would be nice to see what the track times actually are in the 1/8th.
Throw those parts on and get it tuned till it's happy, run it again.
And then put the Whipple on after all of that.

Can't argue with the power gains on the Truck Norris cam, but with with an LSA of 107, it's going to have a lot of chop at idle. When I did my cam swap, I tried a cam with a 111 LSA (generally the lower the LSA, the more idle chop), but I found that I didn't like the choppy idle for everyday use. The Truck Norris will be even choppier and the 107 LSA will also push the power band higher. Might be a good cam for a supercharger though. I'll be interested to learn what you think of it once it's in.

 

[RooTBeeRthe1st]

Can't argue with the power gains on the Truck Norris cam, but with with an LSA of 107, it's going to have a lot of chop at idle. When I did my cam swap, I tried a cam with a 111 LSA (generally the lower the LSA, the more idle chop), but I found that I didn't like the choppy idle for everyday use. The Truck Norris will be even choppier and the 107 LSA will also push the power band higher. Might be a good cam for a supercharger though.

Yeah, I was just going to use the torque cam because it's not supposed to really have any shop, at least it doesn't sound like it from all the videos I've heard even though it's a 111 LSA.
But yeah the truck Norris is definitely going to have some, you could always just turn the RPM up until it smooths out.
We'll see if it's tolerable when I I get it in there and go back to driving it everyday.
Worst case scenario I guess I can just put a LS2 cam or something if I really don't like the chop.
I didn't want any chop, but that power curve makes me want go ahead and see what happens first.
I have a feeling this thing is going to want to make power at like 7,000 or higher with the blower on there. I'm thinking it's going to peak kind of high with that cam.

 

[Geotrash]

Yeah, I was just going to use the torque cam because it's not supposed to really have any shop, at least it doesn't sound like it from all the videos I've heard even though it's a 111 LSA.
But yeah the truck Norris is definitely going to have some, you could always just turn the RPM up until it smooths out.
We'll see if it's tolerable when I I get it in there and go back to driving it everyday.
Worst case scenario I guess I can just put a LS2 cam or something if I really don't like the chop.
I didn't want any chop, but that power curve makes me want go ahead and see what happens first.
I have a feeling this thing is going to want to make power at like 7,000 or higher with the blower on there. I'm thinking it's going to peak kind of high with that cam.

Another you might consider is the Cam Motion line. They grind the cams for many of BTR's offerings anyway, but they have a lot more options to fine tune what you want. I have their stage 2 truck cam designed specifically for the 6.2, and am thrilled with it. Smooth idle and more power for towing. They have a range of cams designed for positive displacement superchargers and also a line for centrifugal superchargers, depending on which way you want to go. When I ordered my cam, I spent probably 20 minutes with the guy on the phone who was super helpful in helping me choose the best one for what I wanted to do.

LS Camshafts - Supercharged LS Camshafts - Positive Displacement LS Supercharger Camshafts - Cam Motion

cammotion.com