What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Just Fishing]

I got the transmission assembled today.
I thought I would get further, but just more time detailing stuff out to be sure I didn't fk up somewhere.




I was ready to drop the valve body on, then I found myself staring at the shift shaft seal.

I had tried to extract the roll pins but I failed early on.
So, I gave it one more try before popping on the valve body...

Roll pins extracted successfully this time around using a set of dikes and a driver.

Was able to install the new seal, but I still couldn't get the parking prowl removed to exchange it's O-ring.


I'm still calling it a sucess since the gear selector shaft looked pretty nasty, felt like it was waiting to leak...

 

[iamdub]

That's what I was thinking.

I'm wanting to change the transfer case and rear axle fluid in the Acadia. It takes 75w90 gear oil. The synthetic stuff I ordered has the LS additive in it. I didn't notice that when I ordered it. It was delivered a bit ago and I am noticing on the bottles that it has LS additive.

I've used the Mobil1 Synthetic "LS" stuff in my brother's truck and mine, neither of which required the friction modifier. No problems. I read somewhere that it states it's formulated for those requiring it but is compatible for those that do not.

Actually, my Gov-Bomb was getting stuck in the locked position. After the gear oil change, it works great again.

 

[Just Fishing]

How many magnets are too many magnets?

 

[pwtr02ss]

That's what I was thinking.

I'm wanting to change the transfer case and rear axle fluid in the Acadia. It takes 75w90 gear oil. The synthetic stuff I ordered has the LS additive in it. I didn't notice that when I ordered it. It was delivered a bit ago and I am noticing on the bottles that it has LS additive.

If it's wrong, then I did the same thing to the Wife's Buick.
And i have been doing the same thing to my rear and front axles for years.

I have never seen 75w90 synthetic available w/o the LS additive.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007WVI5G6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I bought this for my yukon. It was the only synthetic I could find without the additive. I've ran mobil 1 and royal purple with no issues though (avalanche and others). I just got that to protect that warranty (yukon) if something were to happen.

 

[Geotrash]

Rear liftgate actuator went out on the 2007 this weekend. Searching for posts to fix and planning to order parts today. You can hear the latch move and the motor for the liftgate run, but it doesn't move the door either up or down any more. The gas struts are only 2 years old and are holding the door up fine once opened manually.

Update: Ordered the Dorman plastic replacement gear for the actuator from Amazon and will put it in later this week.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07THG4SR2?psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&ref_=chk_typ_imgToDp

 

[iamdub]

Test fit my new spark plug wires that were delivered today.

They were a $42 Amazon Warehouse Deal, listed as new and in the original, but damaged box. The box looked to have taken a razor blade to one side and was crushed a little on the opposite side:





I closely inspected all the wires and boots and found no damage. The warranty paper and pouch of dielectric grease was unscathed as well:





Excited to have new OE wires that were blue, I went out to compare them and that's when I realized they were different:





The overall length is only slightly shorter. It looks like it's stretched tight in this pic, but it's really not. Honestly, I'd run 'em as-is. But, I'll at least investigate lowering the coil packs. If it's just a matter of drilling some holes in the brackets 1/2" or so higher, I'll likely do it. It'll force me to clean and paint the brackets and maybe even wipe the coils clean:





For a set of OE wires at half price, I'm happy. No, they're not 20mm, .0001 ohm, plutonium core "race" wires. Running the part number on the wire itself, they're stock for a C6 ZR1. If they'll light off a supercharged 6.2 to 6,500 RPM, they'll do fine on my timid POS.

 

[gooffeyguy]

Test fit my new spark plug wires that were delivered today.

They were a $42 Amazon Warehouse Deal, listed as new and in the original, but damaged box. The box looked to have taken a razor blade to one side and was crushed a little on the opposite side:

View attachment 368337



I closely inspected all the wires and boots and found no damage. The warranty paper and pouch of dielectric grease was unscathed as well:

View attachment 368338



Excited to have new OE wires that were blue, I went out to compare them and that's when I realized they were different:

View attachment 368339



The overall length is only slightly shorter. It looks like it's stretched tight in this pic, but it's really not. Honestly, I'd run 'em as-is. But, I'll at least investigate lowering the coil packs. If it's just a matter of drilling some holes in the brackets 1/2" or so higher, I'll likely do it. It'll force me to clean and paint the brackets and maybe even wipe the coils clean:

View attachment 368340



For a set of OE wires at half price, I'm happy. No, they're not 20mm, .0001 ohm, plutonium core "race" wires. Running the part number on the wire itself, they're stock for a C6 ZR1. If they'll light off a supercharged 6.2 to 6,500 RPM, they'll do fine on my timid POS.

What were the red wires on there?

 

[iamdub]

What were the red wires on there?

Stock ACDelco. Possibly original.

I never bothered to measure the ohms and I don't have misfires. But I don't know how old they are and red isn't my color.


You can see ACDelco and their symbol (resistor?) on the wire in this pic:

 

[gooffeyguy]

Interesting. I like the 90* boots on the spark plug side of the red ones. Mine are OE and are black, but are straight like your blue ones, maybe a tad longer.

 

[iamdub]

Interesting. I like the 90* boots on the spark plug side of the red ones. Mine are OE and are black, but are straight like your blue ones, maybe a tad longer.

Are your wires straight or have slack to be a little curved, like the red ones in my pic? There are so many variations for the truck wires that seem to have no real significance. I can see a difference in the LS9 wires versus the truck wires. But why would two Gen IV engines have different wires, ya know?

I actually kinda like them blue wires being pulled straight from an aesthetics standpoint.