What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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Just Fishing

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Over the weekend I finally got my garage all cleaned up and organized my gallon jugs of motor oil, gear oil, and transmission fluid.
before I had them stacked on the floor. :jester:

I pulled the tahoe in the garage, started by removing the serpentine belt, and the AC compressor belt.
Squashed my thumb a little while trying to stretch the belt off.
:lol2:

Then I remembered something, I have a .22 that's being shipped.
And the battery in my S10 is dead as a doornail.
Debating about getting one of those jumper packs, or just replacing the battery.

I think the jumper pack is the better option since I'm not sure if I'll even keep the S10 in the end. :think:


Good news: No noticeable end play in the crank. :cool:

I'll probably pull the door panel off this week and change the heated seat switch and maybe even finally change that door lock switch/solenoid. :jester:
 

DaveO9

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Weird one for you guys - I had to replace my trans dipstick tube. Apparently I bought the truck like this. I knew it was loose, but I just assumed the bracket wasn't attached to the back of the engine block. I can't figure out a break like this would have occurred. Any thoughts?IMG_3783.jpegIMG_3782.jpeg

In other news, I changed the oil with Costco full synthetic 5W-30 and Delco PF63 filter. It improved my oil pressure quite a bit. Idles at over 30 and cruises at 40 now. It was more like 25 or so at cruise before. Punching it will bring it up to 45 or 50. The oil filter it came with was CarQuest brand, smaller size like a PF48. About a month ago I reported here that removing the screen below the oil pressure sender helped, but it really didn't - after driving it a bit more it became apparent that not much had changed.
 

89Suburban

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Weird one for you guys - I had to replace my trans dipstick tube. Apparently I bought the truck like this. I knew it was loose, but I just assumed the bracket wasn't attached to the back of the engine block. I can't figure out a break like this would have occurred. Any thoughts?View attachment 387862View attachment 387863

In other news, I changed the oil with Costco full synthetic 5W-30 and Delco PF63 filter. It improved my oil pressure quite a bit. Idles at over 30 and cruises at 40 now. It was more like 25 or so at cruise before. Punching it will bring it up to 45 or 50. The oil filter it came with was CarQuest brand, smaller size like a PF48. About a month ago I reported here that removing the screen below the oil pressure sender helped, but it really didn't - after driving it a bit more it became apparent that not much had changed.


Holy crap! Maybe cracked from a weakness from a pinch weld on the bracket?
 

justchecking

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I renewed my tags for five more years. I was going to buy a new generation (probably the diesel), but I like this one and it hasn't cost me anything hardly in repairs. So I am good to Feb 2028! At which time I should have 200K+ miles (I am at 134K now). In Ohio it is relatively cheap; only cost $320 for five years.
InkedIMG_1058.jpgInkedCopyIMG_1057.jpg
 

DaveO9

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Replace it and do the fluid!
I hope it hasn't been like that for long... :eek:
I did replace it. When I noticed this my first thought was, crap, fluid level is probably wrong. But after the fix, fluid level was less than 1/2 quart low. Fluid is very clear and light pink. I think I will still do a pan drop in the near future though
 

Doubeleive

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I renewed my tags for five more years. I was going to buy a new generation (probably the diesel), but I like this one and it hasn't cost me anything hardly in repairs. So I am good to Feb 2028! At which time I should have 200K+ miles (I am at 134K now). In Ohio it is relatively cheap; only cost $320 for five years.
View attachment 387872View attachment 387873
LOL, that will get you 12 months in CA
 

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