What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Doubeleive]

does black bear have settings for agm swap? they might be the best to do that having access to many different vehicles codes. one of them showing how gm handled agm would probably go a long way.

I still like that agm doesn't leave the trays and stuff eat up over time. that's worth the money in something like my c6

All you have to do to bypass RVC is tell the system something is on, when it really isn't so it stays in charge mode. mechman makes a module that lies to it and tells it everything is normal, you just have use a old 4 pin alternator instead because it doesn't send a digital signal to the 2 pin alternators.

 

[j91z28d1]

but that still only runs one voltage. that's what I run into in my vette. it's just not the right way to charge a agm. you will leave it under charged or over charge it. it's might work in practice but in theory it's not right. you need to bulk charge it at one voltage to replace what you've removed and then top it off at a different voltage and rate, all based on the internal Temps. most charts are at 25c which our car batteries hardly see.

I do wonder if different kinds of agm like or tolerated being treated differently. like a spiral wound optima vs a autoparts store agm. but no way of knowing.

 

[Doug118]

Welp boys I finally hit the jackpot after 3 years of searching. 6 piston PPV brakes at the junkyard. $278 total after tax for loaded calipers and rotors. They’ll have them pulled at some point next week

 

[the_tool_man]

What if it is printed as one piece? Without the flappy part?

Sorry I wasn't clear. While multi-material 3D printing is possible, I was thinking of a single non-flexible part that replaces the OEM one. It would have a narrower slot in it than the rigid portion of the OEM part, but wider than the rubber part, to conform to the hinge without the need for the rubber bit. It would probably have to be sanded and painted if it were done with conventional FDM printing (what 99% of consumer/prosumer grade printers use). I don't know anyone with an SLS printer, or other technologies. Another alternative would be to use a 3rd-party, like Xometry, who has access to lots of high-end printing technologies that generate class A surfaces right out of the printer. When I get time (don't hold your breath), I might pop one out and reverse engineer something I could send to them for quotation. I'd bet an hour's pay they'd be cheaper than $70 each.

 

[89Suburban]

Sorry I wasn't clear. While multi-material 3D printing is possible, I was thinking of a single non-flexible part that replaces the OEM one. It would have a narrower slot in it than the rigid portion of the OEM part, but wider than the rubber part, to conform to the hinge without the need for the rubber bit. It would probably have to be sanded and painted if it were done with conventional FDM printing (what 99% of consumer/prosumer grade printers use). I don't know anyone with an SLS printer, or other technologies. Another alternative would be to use a 3rd-party, like Xometry, who has access to lots of high-end printing technologies that generate class A surfaces right out of the printer. When I get time (don't hold your breath), I might pop one out and reverse engineer something I could send to them for quotation. I'd bet an hour's pay they'd be cheaper than $70 each.

I follow you.

 

[j91z28d1]

there's a guy that prints different car parts, mostly for older 3rd gens and stuff that's and discontinued, he somehow stumbled onto a setting that leaves a oem finish. that would. or. perfect for these.

like you said, the rubber isn't doing much. just a nice plastic part that fills the gap to look nicer.

I should found his email

 

[j91z28d1]

they do big stuff down to little stud like this.

1970-2002 Camaro/Firebird Visor Deletes

These small lightweight Visor Delete plates replace the sun visors on all 1970-2002 Camaros and Firebirds. This is very useful for track cars where you wouldn't want worn out visors falling all over the place. It also helps with visibility for tall drivers or can be used in place of worn out...

starbuckinnovativedesigns.com

 

[mikez71]

but that still only runs one voltage.

I believe it will still charge at the higher voltages, my impression was the RVC sensor tells the computer how much juice you are using to generate just enough juice to keep from charging your battery as often/much? Will be disconnecting mine. Keeping an eye on voltages and battery SOC in the Tech2.. Had seen as low as 70% SOC before.

 

[Doubeleive]

Sorry I wasn't clear. While multi-material 3D printing is possible, I was thinking of a single non-flexible part that replaces the OEM one. It would have a narrower slot in it than the rigid portion of the OEM part, but wider than the rubber part, to conform to the hinge without the need for the rubber bit. It would probably have to be sanded and painted if it were done with conventional FDM printing (what 99% of consumer/prosumer grade printers use). I don't know anyone with an SLS printer, or other technologies. Another alternative would be to use a 3rd-party, like Xometry, who has access to lots of high-end printing technologies that generate class A surfaces right out of the printer. When I get time (don't hold your breath), I might pop one out and reverse engineer something I could send to them for quotation. I'd bet an hour's pay they'd be cheaper than $70 each.

i'm sure there is a market for them at a less than $140 rapey price for set

 

[j91z28d1]

I believe it will still charge at the higher voltages, my impression was the RVC sensor tells the computer how much juice you are using to generate just enough juice to keep from charging your battery as often/much? Will be disconnecting mine. Keeping an eye on voltages and battery SOC in the Tech2.. Had seen as low as 70% SOC before.

so this is very very general and changes based on all kinds of things, but

The bulk charge voltage of a 12V AGM lead acid battery is typically 14.7 volts, and the float charge is typically 13.8 volts.

so when you say run the radio for a bit and then crank the truck, you need to replace what was used at the bulk charge voltage of 14.7 but once charged it will bake the battery if you keep the voltage at 14.7. but you also can't run your alt at 13.8 as it will never fully charge at that voltage and you'll run around at 70% soc which isn't good for long lift either.

now the hotter or colder the internal Temps, those voltages change and at what point the steps change.


it's one of those things that probably doesn't matter much in real use for most people. if you put one in and it lasts 5 years, no biggie that's all the lead/acid would probably do anyways, but if it doesn't, it's probably because it's over or under charged by your system that isn't adjusted right.