What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Fless

Staff member
Super Moderator
Joined
Apr 2, 2017
Posts
12,172
Reaction score
24,843
Location
Elev 5,280
well checked and it seems I did have the correct canister part.

number 15286158 off the old one has been replaced by 22945639 and that's what RA sent me.

so now to see if it will ever run the test and pass. seems to take weeks. if so, I have never warranted anything with them, especially a 6 months ago purchase ha.
This seems to be the typical instructions for an evap drive cycle (hit the link and scroll down):

You might be better served initially by performing a purge and seal test to see if the system will hold vacuum.
 

j91z28d1

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 28, 2022
Posts
3,226
Reaction score
4,011
This seems to be the typical instructions for an evap drive cycle (hit the link and scroll down):

You might be better served initially by performing a purge and seal test to see if the system will hold vacuum.


interesting.. I'll have to read thru later.

I've read what my software says about the code for small leak that it throws, sounds like it basically uses the heating and cooling of the fuel in the tank to check for a leak over a few cycles. it might be different than the full i/m stuff?

I'm not sure. but I'm 99% sure putting the old canister back on will solve it. it was fine before, I just changed it for the heck of it as maintenance. unless I damaged a hose during the install. I did replace the purge valve I think it is that's in the back, since I was a bit rough with that fitting getting it off the other 2 pop right off.

we shall see. I'll read thru that thread.
 

Fless

Staff member
Super Moderator
Joined
Apr 2, 2017
Posts
12,172
Reaction score
24,843
Location
Elev 5,280
interesting.. I'll have to read thru later.

I've read what my software says about the code for small leak that it throws, sounds like it basically uses the heating and cooling of the fuel in the tank to check for a leak over a few cycles. it might be different than the full i/m stuff?

I'm not sure. but I'm 99% sure putting the old canister back on will solve it. it was fine before, I just changed it for the heck of it as maintenance. unless I damaged a hose during the install. I did replace the purge valve I think it is that's in the back, since I was a bit rough with that fitting getting it off the other 2 pop right off.

we shall see. I'll read thru that thread.

Purge valve is on the engine; canister vent valve is in the back by the rear differential.
 

Doubeleive

Wes
Supporting Member
Joined
Nov 7, 2017
Posts
26,526
Reaction score
39,920
Location
Stockton, Ca.
interesting.. I'll have to read thru later.

I've read what my software says about the code for small leak that it throws, sounds like it basically uses the heating and cooling of the fuel in the tank to check for a leak over a few cycles. it might be different than the full i/m stuff?

I'm not sure. but I'm 99% sure putting the old canister back on will solve it. it was fine before, I just changed it for the heck of it as maintenance. unless I damaged a hose during the install. I did replace the purge valve I think it is that's in the back, since I was a bit rough with that fitting getting it off the other 2 pop right off.

we shall see. I'll read thru that thread.
you can do a vacuum test with the tech2 but it's not easy
and if it is a tech2 clone you need to be plugged into 12v dc wall power on the bottom of the tech2 during the test because it requires you to cycle the key and the clones will reboot during a key cycle if not externally powered it's pretty much the only fault with a clone because of a lower quality power regulator used in them.
 

j91z28d1

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 28, 2022
Posts
3,226
Reaction score
4,011
you can do a vacuum test with the tech2 but it's not easy
and if it is a tech2 clone you need to be plugged into 12v dc wall power on the bottom of the tech2 during the test because it requires you to cycle the key and the clones will reboot during a key cycle if not externally powered it's pretty much the only fault with a clone because of a lower quality power regulator used in them.


oh yeah? I'll have to look into that.

I have the clone but I've moved switched power on my passenger side power port for chargers and stuff, oddly it switched my obd port power too, even thou I don't see that on the wiring diagram, probably a hybrid thing, they are wired all sorts of different. it's nice cause I just leave my reader in it haha. but I do have to use the adapter most times I used the tech 2 or it loses power.

next time I have it in the garage I'll see if I can run it
 

Doubeleive

Wes
Supporting Member
Joined
Nov 7, 2017
Posts
26,526
Reaction score
39,920
Location
Stockton, Ca.
oh yeah? I'll have to look into that.

I have the clone but I've moved switched power on my passenger side power port for chargers and stuff, oddly it switched my obd port power too, even thou I don't see that on the wiring diagram, probably a hybrid thing, they are wired all sorts of different. it's nice cause I just leave my reader in it haha. but I do have to use the adapter most times I used the tech 2 or it loses power.

next time I have it in the garage I'll see if I can run it
note that it has to be ran on a cold engine and if you mess up a couple times and have to start over then you have to wait and try again later when it's cold again.
 

Burban22

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 25, 2023
Posts
140
Reaction score
180
Marketplace deal -

Bolted on some 2015 sierra wheels with 265/70/17 tires. I have 285/70/17 wild peaks but will probably run the smaller generals for summer.

IMG_2018.jpeg
 
Last edited:

Forum statistics

Threads
132,767
Posts
1,873,943
Members
97,605
Latest member
audley71
Top