What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

[Doubeleive]

I should be changing it myself but I am lazy and usually manage to make a mess or strip the bolt, or you name it.
I will do tons of other stuff when I have time to go run for parts because shit just never goes smooth for me.

something as simple as a oil change is all it takes haha

 

[gooffeyguy]

because i may be placing the meter in a sweet spot with the open slats, a better test would involve a more controlled environment. If i build a funnel to about a 4" hole then I can get a reading for either one more accurately. I have plenty of cardboard and tape.
I personally think the slots will catch more air but that's just my brain seeing big open slots versus small holes

So you're saying a funnel on the meter side, I thought you meant on the fan side, lol

 

[gooffeyguy]

No math needed, except for a ruler (not your wife kind of ruler...). See @Geotrash's post. Apples-to-apples comparison. EZPZ

Damn engineers and their math and measurements and stuff.

I am in the Show Me state and like experiments/tests

 

[Doubeleive]

might be a minute before I get one, bleeding money like a stuck pig at the moment, maybe if one shows up in the junkyard.

 

[Chevymec]

We are headed to Ohio soon so I have had some repairs to do to the Tahoe. Changed the oil, transfer case fluid and output seal, both rear jounce bumpers, replaced the ac cycling switch, and the ac high pressure fitting. As I was leaving work my passenger headlight quit.... again. Pigtail burnt up. Luckily I just ordered 2 new GM headlights and I put those in when I got home. Also replaced the rear bowtie emblem.

 

[89Suburban]

Installed my drop links in the front

 

[Geotrash]

Replaced the suspension compressor on the 2012, performed the ALC relearn, and discovered that my rear brakes were down to metal on the drivers side. Never had that happen before because I check them often. But it was the bottom end of the inboard pad, or I would’ve seen it. I heard the squeal of the pad sensor on our trip home, but that’s at the top end of the pad. Anyway, I installed new pads and rotors and thankfully no leaks from the axle seals were noted.

 

[Grady_Wilson]

Replaced the suspension compressor on the 2012, performed the ALC relearn, and discovered that my rear brakes were down to metal on the drivers side. Never had that happen before because I check them often. But it was the bottom end of the inboard pad, or I would’ve seen it. I heard the squeal of the pad sensor on our trip home, but that’s at the top end of the pad. Anyway, I installed new pads and rotors and thankfully no leaks from the axle seals were noted.

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Since your pads wore unevenly, did you make sure the slide pins were cleaned up and lubed?
And did you check the piston for corrosion tht could be causing uneven pressure application?

 

[Geotrash]

Since your pads wore unevenly, did you make sure the slide pins were cleaned up and lubed?
And did you check the piston for corrosion tht could be causing uneven pressure application?

Yes on lubing the slide pins - standard procedure when I do brakes. The calipers are of course suspect, but it’s been a dry country car all of its life before coming to VA, and once here has never been driven in snow or on salted roads. All of the hardware was clean and with a wash could pass as new. The piston is phenolic so won’t rust, and looked to be in good shape. All the same, I’ll keep an eye on them for a while.

 

[Doubeleive]

Well the cam is good, so left bank is getting done and hopefully that's it for a good while. Lifter #1 was bad