man, just had a derp moment, for whatever reason I thought I had bought mobile 1, tossed my receipt but I used my phone number maybe I can exchange them, grr
What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?
- Thread starter phattyford
- Start date
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I still have my dad's 1/2" Craftsman breaker bar from the 1950's. It's nigh unbreakable.
Grady_Wilson
Supporting Member
What would be the difference?
As long as they are the same formula the Valvoline should be fine.
Most of what I've seen for Mobil1 is like Monster Cable for audio stuff, just the name.
Unless you've seen real world testing from someone like Dana that proved a tremendous difference, I wouldn't think there would be a difference.
probably no difference, I just thought I had grabbed m1 lol. I will just use this
Grady_Wilson
Supporting Member
Only case I have seen where Mobil1 made a significant difference is with Nissan VQ engines.
Someone had some repeated Blackstone testing done and with Mobil1 there was an increase of brass in the used oil.
Other synthetic oils didn't show this so Blackstone surmised the Mobil1 wasn't protecting something as well as other oils.
They guessed cam bearings.
Granted, this was back around 2004 so things may have changed with their oils.
Not surprised, though I used to run it exclusively back then and got 300K out of an Isuzu V6 that usually threw rod bearings at around half that mileage. Mobil1 was also marketed in a shady way. The base oil stock was actually dino juice that they re-processed and labeled as "synthetic". Not sure if that's still the case but I stopped using it and started using Walmart real synthetic oil instead.
Grady_Wilson
Supporting Member
Yesterday, I installed some new rear hatch supports.
After they were both in, when the lift gate would go up, it would clunk at the top like it was being pushed too far by the new lift struts.
The gate would go up and stop like normal, then clunk and jump just a little more.
I removed the new struts and reinstalled the old ones because I didn't want to damage the lifting mechanism.
Guess I'll have to order genuine GM struts and see if the same thing happens.
Only reason I ordered the new ones is the auto lift function doesn't work when it's near zero degrees or colder and I wanted to see if new struts would and make any difference.
After they were both in, when the lift gate would go up, it would clunk at the top like it was being pushed too far by the new lift struts.
The gate would go up and stop like normal, then clunk and jump just a little more.
I removed the new struts and reinstalled the old ones because I didn't want to damage the lifting mechanism.
Guess I'll have to order genuine GM struts and see if the same thing happens.
Only reason I ordered the new ones is the auto lift function doesn't work when it's near zero degrees or colder and I wanted to see if new struts would and make any difference.
My guess is that either the ones you ordered may have been spec'd to fit but in reality were too short, or they have an internal fault preventing them from moving smoothly through their full range of motion.
I've used aftermarket struts on these many times and had great results. The only ones that didn't work right were the ones I got at Autozone.
These worked well for me last time and are still on the vehicle.
