What did you do to your OBS GMT400 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Joined
Mar 9, 2013
Posts
46
Reaction score
29
Location
Phoenix, AZ
1999 tahoe ls 4wd correct? 4dr as well?
@SunlitComet:
Mine is a 2-door 4WD. I found what I think is the correct power steering pump on Amazon, here is the link:

http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-15909...1999+tahoe+power+steering+pump#productDetails

I also found a hydroboost upgrade kit (minus the ps pump) at a website called powerbrakeservice.net and this is their video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ttE2akwggZE

If I were to go to this kit and PS pump, would I need to upgrade my rear wheel cylinders? How about the brake lines, would they need to be upgraded or replaced? Will there be any issues with the variable power steering assist? The ABS system?
 

SunlitComet

OBS Jedi-Do Good
Joined
Sep 30, 2010
Posts
16,206
Reaction score
188
Location
unknown at this time.
Here is the idea I use. I would pull the components or buy them based on a burb of the same year but built with a hydro setup. You would get the pump (the one you linked looks good.) booster, MC, and related hydraulic lines for the ps system. Brake lines and wheel cylinder would stay the same. As for the Evo most people just put on a bypass piece on the pump for it. However if it is found that the Evo of the burb setup has the same part number as yours then it should continue to work just fine. The abs should function normally. Because the pressure in the brake lines is much stronger I would replace any flexible hose that shows any signs of cracks on the rubber material. I f they look fine then you can continue to use them. I had someone get me a junkyard booster to use but it had a piston seal leak so I used it as a core to get a cardone unit from a parts store.

---------- Post added at 01:17 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:14 PM ----------

Should also note that the hose from the pump to booster part number is dependent on weather or not the EVO valve on pump stays in place. Either setup runs the line either forward first or backwards first before heading to the booster. And a fluid cooler is required to prevent fluid damage from heat. I grabbed mine from a 3/4 ton burb.

---------- Post added at 02:02 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:17 PM ----------



---------- Post added at 03:09 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:02 PM ----------

My tranny has been having personal issues in the last few months. Went out a few days ago to get the fluid and filter changed due to nastiness and while still park in the hotel parking lot idling something broke and I lost all fluid pressure in it. After being towed from the first shop and almost a second one I left at another nearby here. Converter is still moving they say but no pump pressure at all so no drive power. Dropped the pan to see ugly fluid and the magnet is piled with mush that is all fine grain. Based on this a patch job is possible depending on what they see in the first clutch pack. But I need it to last a little while longer and still don't know what made the pump break. I am possibly looking at a used tranny for a $950 switch out or $150 to rebuild this one again. 12/2011 cost me $2500 and did not get 50k out of it. And apparently not upgrade fixes either despite being told it did. Still get random P1870's and hard 1-2 shifts. Broke as it is and have to move to Victorville this week for a another job assignment. Expected it to last at least 100k so it would give me time to switch to a ht383e block and 4l80e tranny to accommodate a Whipple later on.
 

_Dylan_

STAY FROSTY
Joined
Jan 10, 2012
Posts
1,547
Reaction score
6
Location
941
Built a mount for my 12 gauge, I still have to wire the release for the lock though.

20150202_155320_zps75f54255.gif

My headliner is DIRTY.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
132,333
Posts
1,866,251
Members
96,958
Latest member
24redDenali
Top