97YukonNZ
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Hahahaha I like it!!No need to forget about hot Rod! You can have both.
It will be as close to a HotRod as I'll get as an owner!
What did you do to your OBS GMT400 Tahoe/Yukon Today?
- Thread starter 96ProCompTahoe
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It will be as close to a HotRod as I'll get as an owner!
YukonGTmaster
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Good plan. The paint on my roof rails was worn, so I sanded them and hit them with "Satin" black. Looks very close to OEM.
Mean_Green
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Headliner's replaced. Kind of an ordeal, but it's done.
Gotta figure out what to do with the door hinges. I just can't see $250 per door which is what all shops have been around. There's gotta be a better way. Considering building a door holding frame out of lumber.
Some guys here talk about pulling engines and replacing rear main seals like I would replace a light bulb. Replacing a door hinge pin can't be that complicated.
Gotta figure out what to do with the door hinges. I just can't see $250 per door which is what all shops have been around. There's gotta be a better way. Considering building a door holding frame out of lumber.
Some guys here talk about pulling engines and replacing rear main seals like I would replace a light bulb. Replacing a door hinge pin can't be that complicated.
Mean_Green
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Got most of the trim back in after the headliner work. Nobody ever ends up with extra screws, right? Or missing screws?
97YukonNZ
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Did mine a while ago.
A frame or something to hang the door from will make it easier.
Pretty satisfying once you get it back together!
Nice work!
Always a fun job and sometimes you end up with spare screws. And or less depending on how many you lose in the body dropping them down the back of partly attached panels!
Never happened to me. Just saying.
Ha!
Mean_Green
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Messed around with the paint a bit more.
www.tahoeyukonforum.com
I'm considering ordering the door and roller pins. Once I get them, maybe I can figure something out.
Clearcoat touchup.
I've been blathering about the clearcoat issues and haven't got much response. I will NOT be doing a full repaint. Out of the question entirely. I'm not super fussy about exterior appearance, but the clearcoat is annoying. This is 20 minutes with some 1500 grit wet or dry, some buffing...
www.tahoeyukonforum.com
I'm considering ordering the door and roller pins. Once I get them, maybe I can figure something out.
Messed around with the paint a bit more.
Clearcoat touchup.
I've been blathering about the clearcoat issues and haven't got much response. I will NOT be doing a full repaint. Out of the question entirely. I'm not super fussy about exterior appearance, but the clearcoat is annoying. This is 20 minutes with some 1500 grit wet or dry, some buffing...
I'm considering ordering the door and roller pins. Once I get them, maybe I can figure something out.
if you do do pins, don't do the bronze looking auto parts store bushings. I went thru about 3 sets of those. they just aren't right. there's a kit on Amazon with a harder gray bushing that has listed me a few years now and still going
XtremeAmazing Door Hinge Pins Kit 1988 2002 2 Door 4Pins Bushing Kit for 88-02 Chevy GMC GM Fullsize Truck SUV https://a.co/d/cJxmBuR
super happy with it.. it's not hard once you figure it out, helps to have an extra hand to balance the door the first time, I just used a peice of wood on a floor jack under the back of the door. but after 3 times of doing the bronze auto parts store ones, I could do it myself lol.
just don't hammer the bushings in. they will break, you gotta make up some nuts and bolts to press them in with. I used sockets on the bolts as spacers to press them into. a cordless ratchet makes short work of it.
I'm sure that doesn't make any since lol. but I'm sure you can get it once it's apart and looking at it. the pins just tap in and out, the bushings are what wears.
oh and if it's still not aligned when done, there's a tool to "adjust" it. the things basically just bends the door up lol. crazy I know but that's how it's done since there's not adjustments in gm door hinges, worked perfectly on mine.
super happy with it.. it's not hard once you figure it out, helps to have an extra hand to balance the door the first time, I just used a peice of wood on a floor jack under the back of the door. but after 3 times of doing the bronze auto parts store ones, I could do it myself lol.
just don't hammer the bushings in. they will break, you gotta make up some nuts and bolts to press them in with. I used sockets on the bolts as spacers to press them into. a cordless ratchet makes short work of it.
I'm sure that doesn't make any since lol. but I'm sure you can get it once it's apart and looking at it. the pins just tap in and out, the bushings are what wears.
oh and if it's still not aligned when done, there's a tool to "adjust" it. the things basically just bends the door up lol. crazy I know but that's how it's done since there's not adjustments in gm door hinges, worked perfectly on mine.
Mean_Green
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These two also show the roller pins that I need, but I'm not sure if the bushings are what you mean:
And I'm not sure what all has to be done. One shop told me you have tyo get into the kick panel and disconnect all of the wiring to completely remove the door away from the vehicle to get room to work.
And I'm not sure what all has to be done. One shop told me you have tyo get into the kick panel and disconnect all of the wiring to completely remove the door away from the vehicle to get room to work.
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I never touched my rollers. they don't make the door sage and that's all I wanted to fix.
but no, no need to remove the door. that's crazy. man I wish id have recored how to do it lol. it's hard to explain. give me a bit and I'll get some pics of the tools I used. there's a spring in there, they sell a cheap tool to compress and remove that and then you need to put a jack under the rear of the door with a block of wood or something to not hurt the paint, have someone balance it helps a lot. also put a rag between the front of the door and the fender so they don't scratch each other, I tapped it in place so it didn't fall out.
you'll do one at a time. if I remember right I popped the top pin out and put a 1/4in bolt in it, one a few inches long so it holds it tougher, but not to long that it goes thru both sides like the pin does, you need to door to be able to pivot for clearance at the bottom. that allows you to move the door up and down to get to the bushings. then pop the bottom pin out, move the door up down right or left to get to the bushings. just tap the old ones with a screw driver and a hammer, they should fall apart. they are different internal size so watch for that. then put the new ones in, they are a press fit. I broke some trying to hammer them in. but that was the soft bronze ones. I used a smaller bolt and nut to press them in by tightening the bolt, just make sure you have a spacer under it, the bushings are thicker than the metal they go in, so don't let it bottom out against the nut. get both top and bottom of the bottom hinge pressed in, then put the spare bolt from the top hinge in the bottom, and then don't he same to the top bushings.
then lube up the pins with some anti seize and tap them in. they come with bottom clips, but gravity holds them in, so I've not worried about it.
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