Whining alternator driving me crazy, tried everything

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

OP
OP
MichaelSE

MichaelSE

2010 2500
Joined
Nov 9, 2015
Posts
412
Reaction score
126
Location
Tucson

Thanks for your replies. Would this help even if the whine is not coming through the speakers? As for the big 3, I have not upgraded the ground cables themselves. I have traced them and made sure they were all secure, but haven't changed the cables.

That little HONDA detector was located in the fuse box (under hood) about the size of a book of matches and black in color. You should trace from the cable you talked about and locate the control unit and replace it. JMHO and good luck.
David g......:2cents:

Thanks, I'll take a look under the fuse/relay box and see what I can find.
 

Doubeleive

Wes
Supporting Member
Joined
Nov 7, 2017
Posts
26,035
Reaction score
38,882
Location
Stockton, Ca.
its just an idea to try, if it works for the sound system I don't see why it wouldn't work for the engine electrical system just as well, I would think the dealer would have checked the grounds and/or to see if something that is not supposed to be grounded is being grounded, maybe something is causing some resistance and giving feedback as a whine, maybe leave the alternator connected and try to troubleshoot the system by removing other powered systems one at a time until the noise goes away I would think that would narrow it down, maybe doing something as simple as pulling fuses one at a time while it is running.
 

Doubeleive

Wes
Supporting Member
Joined
Nov 7, 2017
Posts
26,035
Reaction score
38,882
Location
Stockton, Ca.
Actually that's a great idea... which fuses and/or relays should I pull? Does it risk damage to pull any while it's running?
take your pick start in one place and move to the next, I think worst case scenario you might get a CEL or it will stop running until you replace the fuse and restart, I mean I would start with the basics, lights, horn, blinkers, etc and work your way up
 
OP
OP
MichaelSE

MichaelSE

2010 2500
Joined
Nov 9, 2015
Posts
412
Reaction score
126
Location
Tucson
Well I've pulled every fuse I can think of, still whines. Replaced all ground cables, still whines. Tried a 145 amp alternator, still whines. Tried a 250 amp alternator, still whines. Gratuitously sprayed electronic cleaner on all contacts I could find, still whines. Replaced battery charging cable, still whines. Local mechanic can't figure it out. Dealership can't figure it out. I give up. Any other ideas?
 

kbuskill

***CAUTION*** I do my own stunts!
Joined
Mar 11, 2017
Posts
5,299
Reaction score
8,299
Location
NE. FL.
Well I've pulled every fuse I can think of, still whines. Replaced all ground cables, still whines. Tried a 145 amp alternator, still whines. Tried a 250 amp alternator, still whines. Gratuitously sprayed electronic cleaner on all contacts I could find, still whines. Replaced battery charging cable, still whines. Local mechanic can't figure it out. Dealership can't figure it out. I give up. Any other ideas?

Does the whine change when you disconnect the plug and the voltage drops down?

Does the whine change when you turn ON EVERYTHING... High beams, seat heaters, rear defroster, front and rear blower motors on high, ETC. ???

My next suggestion would be to lift the fuse box under the hood by flipping the gray handles up/In and lifting it up exposing all the connections and spray them all down with contact cleaner and letting it dry and then put some dielectric grease on them and reseat the fuse box and see what happens.

It sounds like the ECM, or whatever controls the charging rate, is telling the alternator to charge continually. Or perhaps a bad diode in the alternator, although this seems less likely since you have swapped alternators several times.

When you disconnect the sensor around the ground cable by the battery does that change the sound OR the voltage output? If not perhaps this sensor is bad and is calling for charging all the time, like when it is unplugged.
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
MichaelSE

MichaelSE

2010 2500
Joined
Nov 9, 2015
Posts
412
Reaction score
126
Location
Tucson
Does the whine change when you disconnect the plug and the voltage drops down?

Does the whine change when you turn ON EVERYTHING... High beams, seat heaters, rear defroster, front and rear blower motors on high, ETC. ???

My next suggestion would be to lift the fuse box under the hood by flipping the gray handles up/In and lifting it up exposing all the connections and spray them all down with contact cleaner and letting it dry and then put some dielectric grease on them and reseat the fuse box and see what happens.

It sounds like the ECM, or whatever controls the charging rate, is telling the alternator to charge continually. Or perhaps a bad diode in the alternator, although this seems less likely since you have swapped alternators several times.

When you disconnect the sensor around the ground cable by the battery does that change the sound OR the voltage output? If not perhaps this sensor is bad and is calling for charging all the time, like when it is unplugged.
t

The only thing that stops the whine thus far is completely disconnecting the battery charging cable. Disconnecting the control cable does make it change in pitch, but it's still there, and same for turning on all accessories. I will try removing the fuse box this weekend - does it have a single large connector underneath it? I'm also beginning to believe it's something with the ECM and I plan to swap back to stock tune for a little while and try that. Yes, disconnecting the variable rate charging cable does cause a change in output (makes it slightly higher) so I believe that system is working as intended.
 

Doubeleive

Wes
Supporting Member
Joined
Nov 7, 2017
Posts
26,035
Reaction score
38,882
Location
Stockton, Ca.
have you tried adding any additional wiring like a power wire straight from alternator to battery post?, ground from alternator to frame, I recommend using "0" gauge and copper connectors.
I figure at this point it couldn't hurt.
 
OP
OP
MichaelSE

MichaelSE

2010 2500
Joined
Nov 9, 2015
Posts
412
Reaction score
126
Location
Tucson
have you tried adding any additional wiring like a power wire straight from alternator to battery post?, ground from alternator to frame, I recommend using "0" gauge and copper connectors.
I figure at this point it couldn't hurt.

Do you mean straight from the output terminal to the battery terminal? So that there are 2 wires coming from the output terminal? And would it go on the positive or negative battery terminal? I'll have to get a shop or a buddy to help me with that one, I'm kind of dumb when it comes to adding wires (I can only replace them) and I'd probably set something on fire:eek:
 
OP
OP
MichaelSE

MichaelSE

2010 2500
Joined
Nov 9, 2015
Posts
412
Reaction score
126
Location
Tucson
It sounds like the ECM, or whatever controls the charging rate, is telling the alternator to charge continually.

I had a question about this. If something were causing the alternator to charge continually, would it be reflected on the voltage gauge on the dash? I.E. always above 14v?
 

Forum statistics

Threads
132,086
Posts
1,862,092
Members
96,546
Latest member
Squirrely tahoe
Top