Wife overheated the 2005. . .

[Joseph Garcia]

If you have not changed all of the coolant hoses (radiator, heater, overflow) within the past few years, change them all now, while you are replacing the radiator. If you have a rear heater/AC unit, change the heater hose splitting plastic Tees near the firewall on the passenger's side.

I recently blew out a heater hose and just about emptied my motor of coolant. Fortunately, after replacing all of the hoses and Tees, my motor still runs fine.

 

[iamdub]

If you have not changed all of the coolant hoses (radiator, heater, overflow) within the past few years, change them all now, while you are replacing the radiator. If you have a rear heater/AC unit, change the heater hose splitting plastic Tees near the firewall on the passenger's side.

I recently blew out a heater hose and just about emptied my motor of coolant. Fortunately, after replacing all of the hoses and Tees, my motor still runs fine.

Good suggestion. Now's the time to replace all of that rather than later and having to refill and burp the system again. Speaking of, I find it cheaper to get the coolant concentrate and a few gallons of distilled water from WalMart than to buy the pre-mixed bottles.

 

[iamdub]

You do what you are going to do but I still say the thermostat should be done at the same time. IMO

What's the purpose of replacing the thermostat after an overheating? I know the fail-safe ones lock open after they've been heated. Even then, they can simply be unlocked and put back into service. But, I've never heard of this being recommended on a regular t-stat. Just curious if it's a PM thing or if there's more to it. I like to learn the science behind things.

 

[OR VietVet]

The thermostat is subjected to hot and cold gobs of times in it's lifetime. That is under normal engine temp operations. Then you get to more extreme temps in a situation like has been described. It is what controls the flow of the coolant that is being pushed by the water pump. It is inexpensive and easy to do. If you are recommending hoses that at this time appear to be holding pressure then why not do that thermostat that just operated under a more extreme condition. I call it "insurance". To me it makes perfect sense. Even if it is a "fail-safe" one, why take a chance on something so important to the system? We recommend numerous parts replacements on many systems while we "have things apart" all the time. Why not here?

 

[strad]

Not a bad idea. And it's right there. I'll pick one of those up as soon as the store opens and I determine if they have a radiator for me.

 

[iamdub]

The thermostat is subjected to hot and cold gobs of times in it's lifetime. That is under normal engine temp operations. Then you get to more extreme temps in a situation like has been described. It is what controls the flow of the coolant that is being pushed by the water pump. It is inexpensive and easy to do. If you are recommending hoses that at this time appear to be holding pressure then why not do that thermostat that just operated under a more extreme condition. I call it "insurance". To me it makes perfect sense. Even if it is a "fail-safe" one, why take a chance on something so important to the system? We recommend numerous parts replacements on many systems while we "have things apart" all the time. Why not here?

So, a PM thing. I'm tracking, and agree. Was curious if there was a scientific/mechanical reasoning, like maybe the spring was designed to soften above the t-stat's rated temperature or something. I'm always for cheap insurance.

 

[Rocket Man]

I would replace the radiator and like @Joseph Garcia said, replace all the hoses at the same time because they’re the most likely thing to fail next. Fill it up, start it up and see how it is. You should be fine. The thermostat doesn’t need replacing unless you really want to.

 

[OR VietVet]

Just like @Galante saying my recommendation of posting vehicle info in a signature is not needed, I could have bet my next paycheck that @Rocket Man would say what he said about the thermostat. After all, the overheated rig is not his so why even make a recommendation about another members rig. Comical at best and an iffy statement about someone else's rig.

It is my recommendation only. Not a "must do". Any member here has a right to service their rigs as they see fit. An opinion was asked and I gave it based off of experience in shops over many years and the fact that the thermostat is a mechanical piece of equipment that cycles literally thousands, if not more times, over it's lifespan. In no way can replacing the thermostat be a bad or wasted endeavor.

By the way, I would not worry about @Rocket Man being hurt by what I have just said. He messaged me yesterday and said that because we don't agree on some things and he hates me recommending info in the signature and that he hates me asking opinions of what a part is worth or the next rig I am looking at, he is now "ignoring me". Kind of a safe room so to speak. If it gives him peace, it is worth it. Namaste.......

 

[OR VietVet]

So, a PM thing. I'm tracking, and agree. Was curious if there was a scientific/mechanical reasoning, like maybe the spring was designed to soften above the t-stat's rated temperature or something. I'm always for cheap insurance.

It's a covering all the bases type of thing. Replacing hoses at this time is the same thing. You get back to a "safe base line" with doing these things. Plus, I like spending other people's money.
Thanks for the question so I could state why I recommended the thermostat. Work smart, not hard. Hard is going back in to replace something that would be an easy replacement at this time.

 

[strad]

Another update: I got it put back together. Napa didn't have the non-oil cooler radiator in stock, so if this thing survives this escapade, I have the option of installing the oil cooler lines in the future I guess. Radiator is ready for it lol. I filled it up with coolant, fixed trans fluid leaks from the loose fittings (dumbasses at the factory didn't tighten the fittings), and drove it to the gas station and back -- up to operating temperature, stayed steady, no white smoke. I did add the trans fluid that went missing because of the loose fittings too. I didn't lose much.

So now we wait until it cools off, and then check the fluid level. And keep doing that for a few days until we know if we got lucky or not.

Edit: I ended up not replacing the thermostat. I bought one, but when I took the housing apart it was not correct for this application. I wanted to get on with the program at that point and NOT drive to the store again. But it worked fine this time around.