Would trail boss axle half shaft fit Suburban?

[LeoHighCountry]

I dont see how it would possibly change the angle of the shaft (rubber boot) enough to make a lick of a difference. Im assuming the original one already let loose because the angle is too steep.

I am guessing for that amount of lift there probably should be some type of differential drop to get the angles back in check.

Gotcha honestly I just did this a week ago, I think the boot ripped during in stall I don’t think it’s an angle thing YET.. but if I can fix the common issue permanently I want to attempt to

 

[olyelr]

Gotcha honestly I just did this a week ago, I think the boot ripped during in stall I don’t think it’s an angle thing YET.. but if I can fix the common issue permanently I want to attempt to

Ahhh makes sense….i was gonna say you are the first person i have seen that had an issue with a torn boot on these.

 

[WVBKW]

Love the idea. Let us know if it works.

 

[nick14226]

Interesting, I had looked at the rough country and readylift kits at the parts included as well as the instructions and was scratching my head on why there were no spacers for diff drop on the ‘21-up (had the readylift on my ‘17 Yukon which did have diff drop). Assumed with the new geometry it wasn’t necessary, but made me nervous, so one of the reasons I went with the more mild 2” RC. Having the IRS on these rigs also makes me wonder how much that has been thought through when lifting the rear. To your point though, that early on, could have certainly been install damage showing up. Especially being the inner boot, outer goes through a lot more movement on turns. Could look to see what they did with the control arm droop stops, could be stretching the boots at full droop when you’re jacking it up (assume you’re not hard core wheeling with it), but doubt that’s the issue.

The front axle shafts for the TB are advertised as being longer than the regular silverado, I had looked at the kit a while ago out of curiosity.

Looks AMAZING by the way.

 

[AJMBLAZER]

I can't say I've looked but I'd want to verify if your Suburban and the Silverados/Sierras use the same front CV shafts. With the GM fullsize SUV's and pickups diverging from each other more and more I'd want to verify that first. You could end up with a set of Trailboss/AT4 axle shafts that you can't use.

 

[olyelr]

I wonder if the yukon at4 and tahoe/burb z71 shafts are any different than the non at4/z71 units? They would surely have a better chance at being a direct swap i would think (compared to the truck shafts).

 

[R32driver]

I wonder if the yukon at4 and tahoe/burb z71 shafts are any different than the non at4/z71 units? They would surely have a better chance at being a direct swap i would think (compared to the truck shafts).

I was thinking the same thing but don’t they only go up 2” in off-road setting? Might not make much difference if he’s up to 3.5” of lift. Seems like anything over 2 or maybe 2.5” really should have a legit lift kit that drops the front dif to keep everything in check

 

[olyelr]

I was thinking the same thing but don’t they only go up 2” in off-road setting? Might not make much difference if he’s up to 3.5” of lift. Seems like anything over 2 or maybe 2.5” really should have a legit lift kit that drops the front dif to keep everything in check

Well, in reality, leveling the rig does not change the actual original range of motion of the shafts at all. It just changes the static ride height…all the movement is still factory spec. But, it does have them operating at a bit steeper of an angle at the new ride height.

 

[nick14226]

Well, in reality, leveling the rig does not change the actual original range of motion of the shafts at all. It just changes the static ride height…all the movement is still factory spec. But, it does have them operating at a bit steeper of an angle at the new ride height.

Unless they have you chop off the UCA droop/bump stop because it’s so tight you’ll be hitting them constantly and getting a harsh ride. On my ‘17 yukon 4” readylift maintained them, similar 3.5” kit from RC instructions show cutting them off. Once they’re gone not sure what stops the suspension at full droop at that point? Specific to leveling, you’re right. I did have a 2.5/1 originally on the Yukon and they had me modify the pad the UCA would contact slightly (sand it down to about half its original thickness), but very minor change in extra travel.

 

[olyelr]

Unless they have you chop off the UCA droop/bump stop because it’s so tight you’ll be hitting them constantly and getting a harsh ride. On my ‘17 yukon 4” readylift maintained them, similar 3.5” kit from RC instructions show cutting them off. Once they’re gone not sure what stops the suspension at full droop at that point? Specific to leveling, you’re right. I did have a 2.5/1 originally on the Yukon and they had me modify the pad the UCA would contact slightly (sand it down to about half its original thickness), but very minor change in extra travel.

Yes. Any kit that requires that to be done is a blatant no-go imo. Thats just asking to much from the factory components. I would imagine worn components very early on, as well as the possibility of not being able to get the alignment back into spec.