I think that the driving forces from the axle would cause more stress on the bearing, Im thinking since the axle isnt rigid it would be constantly tugging the bearing in/out and up/down as you accelerate and let off. If the axle prevents separation during complete bearing failure, and my axles are in the trash, I may fab something up to insert and clamp in the event that something goes wrong, which I honestly think would be a one in a million chance. I beleive there would be an indicator of something before your actual wheel falls off (giving you time to inspect/repair). I will update my findings within a day or two.
Yukon Down, AWD delete, headers, converter etc...
- Thread starter 01ssreda4
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Smoke Em All
Full Access Member
The more I research I find that it is a lot more than one in a million. Apparently lots of people have made this mistake and paid for it.
As far as having some warning the only warning I had after driving approximately 100 miles was about 3 seconds before the wheel flew off. I felt a slight wobble then I heard the ball bearing bouncing off my floor board and the wheel was still headed to work while I was headed for the ditch. No other indications and I drove 50k miles on those bearing up until a week before when I took the axles off. They both failed in that week the other wasn't as dramatic.
I've read post where guys didn't even get out of the driveway and both of them failed.
As far as having some warning the only warning I had after driving approximately 100 miles was about 3 seconds before the wheel flew off. I felt a slight wobble then I heard the ball bearing bouncing off my floor board and the wheel was still headed to work while I was headed for the ditch. No other indications and I drove 50k miles on those bearing up until a week before when I took the axles off. They both failed in that week the other wasn't as dramatic.
I've read post where guys didn't even get out of the driveway and both of them failed.
There were some differences in bearings over the years. Some you absolutely have to have the axle. I'm not denying that. It's hard for me to see our completely different experiences and think it's a fluke. In my mind there must be a concrete reason why mine has given me no issue in over a year. Will update later with some more detailed pics.
Smoke Em All
Full Access Member
I definitely get it cause I feel the same way but opposite lol. I see your situation as a fluke. Mine were obviously much older but the driver side(wheel launcher) never gave me any warning signs. Other than that 3-5 second period I spoke of before. My passenger side on the other hand did give me warning but if you look on some of my earlier post I think I mentioned I thought the diff was bad. That is what started the whole delete idea in the first place.
I found out the day after I removed 4x4 that the bearing was bad. It gave me lots of warning and I limped it home without losing the wheel.
I just want to say that I'm very glad this conversation has turned more towards a solution rather than where I had initially thought. I never meant to attack you or blame you btw. I just wanted to share my experience so you don't have to have it.
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BigDaddy13440
Full Access Member
Simple solution. Disassemble the splined section of the shaft from the front axle, leave it in the hub assembly. The castle nut will help hold everything together.
Did this on my old '88 Blazer, didn't have any money at the time to replace the CV shafts when the bearings went. Pried the bearings apart and unbolted them from the front diff. Ran it as 2wd for about 2 years with no issues.
Did this on my old '88 Blazer, didn't have any money at the time to replace the CV shafts when the bearings went. Pried the bearings apart and unbolted them from the front diff. Ran it as 2wd for about 2 years with no issues.
bottomline2000
Full Access Member
Why not just put 2wd hubs on instead?!
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BigDaddy13440
Full Access Member
I'm sure if you go to your local boneyard, you can find a couple beat-up CV shafts. You don't really need them to be in any kind of decent shape, all you want is the splined stubs.
My Timken hubs were 200 for the pair. Im not rebuying hubs, and I'm not putting used junk on my truck. And for the trouble of finding more axles I could just make something instead. I will update with my solution.
So here is what I came up with. First this is not meant as a 100% failsafe, if your bearing fails bad enough for this (or your axle) to save you, you're Fu$ked anyway. The purpose of this is merely something that in the event of a complete failure may give you a little more time to pull off the road and maybe keep the wheel on long enough to get repaired, nothing more. First an upclose of why I know Im in no worse prone for failure then anyone else.
I took an upclose of the bearing assembly. I've marked the sections with Xs and Os. The lowest O is the spindle/knuckle, where the bearing slides into. The next one is the bearing outer race, which locates inside the spindle. The Os do not move, they are stationary. Now the Xs spin, the first looks to be an inner race and the splined hub. Notice the top X is raised or higher then the surrounding area. That is what the inner axle clamps to. The axle goes through the splined section and clamps to the outer flange where the wheel mounts, which is all one piece of solid metal. What locates the bearing is the outer bearing race bolted to the spindle, and however the internal bearing is made, it is not the axle.
If the bearing went through a complete failure, all the spinning pieces (Xs) would fall off and be still bolted to the back of your wheel. The stationary O pieces would still be on the truck. The axle catches that tiny O lip of the outer bearing race to retain the bearing assembly and keep you wheel on the truck in the event of a failure (though it wouldn't be driveable at that point.) My solution was a simple bracket that functions like the axle in that it prevents the X section from falling out the outside by catching on the outer bearing race.
Here it is installed, again its nothing fancy, its a simple device to add a little bit of safety. Yes it will spin inside the spindle bore at the speed of the wheel.
I took an upclose of the bearing assembly. I've marked the sections with Xs and Os. The lowest O is the spindle/knuckle, where the bearing slides into. The next one is the bearing outer race, which locates inside the spindle. The Os do not move, they are stationary. Now the Xs spin, the first looks to be an inner race and the splined hub. Notice the top X is raised or higher then the surrounding area. That is what the inner axle clamps to. The axle goes through the splined section and clamps to the outer flange where the wheel mounts, which is all one piece of solid metal. What locates the bearing is the outer bearing race bolted to the spindle, and however the internal bearing is made, it is not the axle.
If the bearing went through a complete failure, all the spinning pieces (Xs) would fall off and be still bolted to the back of your wheel. The stationary O pieces would still be on the truck. The axle catches that tiny O lip of the outer bearing race to retain the bearing assembly and keep you wheel on the truck in the event of a failure (though it wouldn't be driveable at that point.) My solution was a simple bracket that functions like the axle in that it prevents the X section from falling out the outside by catching on the outer bearing race.
Here it is installed, again its nothing fancy, its a simple device to add a little bit of safety. Yes it will spin inside the spindle bore at the speed of the wheel.
