Yukon Down, AWD delete, headers, converter etc...

[01ssreda4]

Also, here's one, same design, listed for 2wd, with no failsafe. Most other 2wd hubs have metal dust covers over the rear so I cant verify how they are assembled. I bet they are just like this.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Wheel...ash=item1ea0c84c9c:g:UjwAAOSw2xRYm3mI&vxp=mtr

 

[Servando]

Would this cause any vibrations? I was just wondering?

 

[01ssreda4]

It didnt.

 

[Sevenevez]

Awesome what you did with your Yukon. Your first page of the build alone was the meat and potatoes. Then it seemed to went all controversial I still think it's cool that you did all this. I didn't even know it was feesible

 

[01ssreda4]

Glad you enjoyed it. The truck is doing fantastic, runs like a champ, and I just did a stereo system in it, I should add that as an update.

 

[Sevenevez]

keep it alive! let's see the stereo

 

[95escahoe]

Great build thread


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[#1taho]

keep it alive! let's see the stereo

X2 lets see what you did !

 

[about20ninj45]

So here is what I came up with. First this is not meant as a 100% failsafe, if your bearing fails bad enough for this (or your axle) to save you, you're Fu$ked anyway. The purpose of this is merely something that in the event of a complete failure may give you a little more time to pull off the road and maybe keep the wheel on long enough to get repaired, nothing more. First an upclose of why I know Im in no worse prone for failure then anyone else.

I took an upclose of the bearing assembly. I've marked the sections with Xs and Os. The lowest O is the spindle/knuckle, where the bearing slides into. The next one is the bearing outer race, which locates inside the spindle. The Os do not move, they are stationary. Now the Xs spin, the first looks to be an inner race and the splined hub. Notice the top X is raised or higher then the surrounding area. That is what the inner axle clamps to. The axle goes through the splined section and clamps to the outer flange where the wheel mounts, which is all one piece of solid metal. What locates the bearing is the outer bearing race bolted to the spindle, and however the internal bearing is made, it is not the axle.

View attachment 176680

If the bearing went through a complete failure, all the spinning pieces (Xs) would fall off and be still bolted to the back of your wheel. The stationary O pieces would still be on the truck. The axle catches that tiny O lip of the outer bearing race to retain the bearing assembly and keep you wheel on the truck in the event of a failure (though it wouldn't be driveable at that point.) My solution was a simple bracket that functions like the axle in that it prevents the X section from falling out the outside by catching on the outer bearing race.

View attachment 176681

Here it is installed, again its nothing fancy, its a simple device to add a little bit of safety. Yes it will spin inside the spindle bore at the speed of the wheel.

View attachment 176682

View attachment 176683

What you did there was what I was going to recommend. We do that at work when manufacturers don't send us the spindles or splined axles or hubs without abs. We run our wheel fixtures loaded on a dyno over 2500 rpms with a gross axle weight of 3500. We even do torque stops al that produce up to 1200-1800 n*m and never had one fail even on our truck and train dyno. We used the same setup...

 

[01ssreda4]

Funny these bearings look basically identical to the hubs on our Durango. Yep they are splined all the way through and its a 2wd, and they are OEM.....meaning 2wd and 4wd ARE interchangeable in that model. If the bearing fails in ANY 2wd youre fuc#ed and the wheel falls off.....as long as the bearing is made this way, and it seems to be very common on lots of models with sealed hub non-serviceable bearings. On a bearing made differently the axle may be required to be there, with these it isnt, and you're in no worse danger then ANY 2wd truck running down the road.