Z55 rebuild or bilsteins

[j91z28d1]

the z95 is electronically controlled as well. Just goes about it differently.

I caught a thread somewhere about one of the aftermarket selling z55 and z95 "compatible" shocks.. both were the same and just fakes. they didn't do anything.

I can see if you wanted to drop it I guess. I'd like to lower the back of mine about an inch, I haven't got around to trying adjusting anything yet. but I read they make sensor adapters for lift kits and lowering kits. Definitely seems to add a bit of hassle but after driving different trucks at work around these ridiculously maintenance roads here, when I jump in my z95 suspension and hit the same bumps and don't fly out of my seat or in the case of the ford's, the whole steering wheel going limp while the tires bounce around. it makes me just want to leave well enough alone and enjoy a smooth ride that sucks up big bumps pretty nice. but I do also of the big side wall 17in rims too.

 

[petethepug]

The post I linked does have info regarding the front end. The wisdom I’m sharing in that post is ….

“You’ve only got to do it once the right way with a lifetime guarantee on factory struts. Jerry-rigging parts and sensors for an economy ride means you’ll be doing it again & again and have your top speed limited to 88mph or override the stability system at your own risk.”

If you are going to lower it, wouldn’t you want a strut with a lifetime warranty? If you’re talking about laying some frame then you’ve got no choice but to convert to standard hydraulic struts.

If there’s more factors to add, I get that the recommendations don’t quite work. Are you planning to use drop spindles? At a certain point you’ve gotta let us know about the whole enchilada you’re cooking up or you’re moving the goal post around.

 

[Big Mama]

Same thoughts here. Adjusting ride height sensors and using shock extenders are part of lowering the rear. Why not do it all at once? As for the brand of shocks it’s your call. We all have different opinions. I like Arnott because I’m using them now. Others like oem.

 

[Ilikemtb999]

The post I linked does have info regarding the front end. The wisdom I’m sharing in that post is ….

“You’ve only got to do it once the right way with a lifetime guarantee on factory struts. Jerry-rigging parts and sensors for an economy ride means you’ll be doing it again & again and have your top speed limited to 88mph or override the stability system at your own risk.”

If you are going to lower it, wouldn’t you want a strut with a lifetime warranty? If you’re talking about laying some frame then you’ve got no choice but to convert to standard hydraulic struts.

If there’s more factors to add, I get that the recommendations don’t quite work. Are you planning to use drop spindles? At a certain point you’ve gotta let us know about the whole enchilada you’re cooking up or you’re moving the goal post around.

Have you gone thru the warranty process?

 

[Ilikemtb999]

@iamdub do you regret deleting your z55? I think I came across a post of yours with this info and going to belltech struts/shocks.

 

[petethepug]

No warranty on z55 or z95, knock on wood. Used Koni & Arnott lifetime warranty several times. Simple as: Call mfgr, obtain RMA #, buy new strut and return broken part. Arnott used to reimburse for ALL shipping + costs

Specifically bought z95 from R/A because they’re no nonsense on warranty & returns.

Have you gone thru the warranty process?

 

[Ilikemtb999]

No warranty on z55 or z95, knock on wood. Used Koni & Arnott lifetime warranty several times. Simple as: Call mfgr, obtain RMA #, buy new strut and return broken part. Arnott used to reimburse for ALL shipping + costs

Specifically bought z95 from R/A because they’re no nonsense on warranty & returns.

Arnott lifetime warranty has sailed. Still $150 cheaper than gm depending on
Where I buy from. I’ll have to think it over on what I want to do. It’s a hard pill to swallow when I paid $7k for it.

I’d like to hear from people that like to mod their vehicles more than stock ownership.

 

[Big Mama]

What kind of mods? Lowering?

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Replace the OEM suspension with OEM parts and put a pair of Hellwig sway bars on the truck, if you want both a 'modded' and a fantastic performance ride (for a truck).

 

[petethepug]

That’s a common thing to say about putting good money after bad on an 09 LTZ you paid $7k for. It’s actually just the opposite though.

My rig was stickered for $88k when new in 09. 11 years later I picked it up for $14.5k. Last year, after 4 years of ownership it got a new trans, all fluids flushed, $5k worth of deferred maintenance and it was only $6.5k to getr done.

The trans rebuild was $5k but the deferred maint was the parts cost from R/A. With the trans coming out all parts are bolt off & on with trans replacement.

If you want to drop it more than 2-3” there’s no need to discuss keeping the autoride.