LowCountryTim's 2011 Tahoe Build Thread

To give you an idea of what I was starting with:



Emblems and trim shaved, two passes with 3D One cream (orange pad, white pad):


Also put a coat of DP GR4 on it. Still have the roof and bumpers to do, but I needed to get some heavy cut compound:


The GMC:

A lot of people use aftermarket dash pads on these. Depends on how factory you want it to look and how bad the current dash is.

vcode said:

A lot of people use aftermarket dash pads on these. Depends on how factory you want it to look and how bad the current dash is.

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Funny you should mention that....



TBH I was fine with the dash cover. However, after I bought the Tahoe I soon realized that the ambient light sensor was missing. Fallen into the abyss that is the dashboard.

Removing the cover was a fun- [read:explicative] filled adventure. On the plus side, I can read the radio now.

LowCountryTim said:

Funny you should mention that....

View attachment 429662

TBH I was fine with the dash cover. However, after I bought the Tahoe I soon realized that the ambient light sensor was missing. Fallen into the abyss that is the dashboard.

Removing the cover was a fun- [read:explicative] filled adventure. On the plus side, I can read the radio now.

Click to expand...

Damn, I think yours wins the most broken.

LowCountryTim said:

Funny you should mention that....

View attachment 429662

TBH I was fine with the dash cover. However, after I bought the Tahoe I soon realized that the ambient light sensor was missing. Fallen into the abyss that is the dashboard.

Removing the cover was a fun- [read:explicative] filled adventure. On the plus side, I can read the radio now.

Click to expand...

Yeah, I don't think I would have put a dashskin on that.

I was thinking I may be able to hide the damage with something like this:

And to think someone actually did this mod.

So a total of three hours to do the passenger side motor mount, but that includes a 30 min break after I wrestled the new mount in. Sometimes ya need to take a breather and regroup. Must less frustration. So if you went straight at it start-to-finish it's 2.5 hours.

I removed the starter and took the mount out in that direction and passed it down between the frame and the engine. I also unsnapped the cooler lines to give me a little more room. Honestly it wasn't too bad. And I was completely shocked (and pleased) that the new mount really just guided itself right into place.. unlike removing the old one which took a bit of persuasion.

Having said that, we know what wasn't causing the clunk. :sigh:

So the mystery of the "sounds like a clunk from the front when I back over a bump" continues...



Next thought is maybe the strut.. Looks original to me, been meaning to replace anyway...

What do y'all think about these bushings? With front wheels suspended there's no wiggle or slop, but I'm wondering if I should just go ahead and press new bushings in there when I'm doing the struts? TBH they look ok to me.. granted I have no idea what I'm doing.

LowCountryTim said:

So the mystery of the "sounds like a clunk from the front when I back over a bump" continues...

View attachment 429987

Next thought is maybe the strut.. Looks original to me, been meaning to replace anyway...

What do y'all think about these bushings? With front wheels suspended there's no wiggle or slop, but I'm wondering if I should just go ahead and press new bushings in there when I'm doing the struts? TBH they look ok to me.. granted I have no idea what I'm doing.

View attachment 429988View attachment 429990

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You can get complete replacement upper and lower control arms with new bushings and ball joints that will make the swap a lot easier for the diy guy with them being that cracked up I’d lean towards replacement
Last time I looked I think the lower arms were maybe 150$ a piece give or take
The uppers I’m not sure cause I ran aftermarket upper control arms