What did you do to your NNBS GMT900 Tahoe/Yukon Today?

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j91z28d1

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Went for a couple of drives longest was today.
Yesterday it wouldn't lock up going but did coming back. Stopped and had them pull the code and the only one that came up was P0700. Had them clear it and it seemed to be doing fine but it was definitely locking up at random and at some points not at all.
Today, drove 45 minutes and it would lock and unlock again at random. Drive home it locked up then randomly unlocked and threw a CEL. Pulled it again and it was P0700 and P0741.
Even after changing the filter and TCC solenoid, it didn't do anything.
I called my mechanic, and he recommended a transmission shop. He'll be calling me tomorrow to see if he was able to find a reman. Kinda sucks, was hoping to get more out of this one. I also have a billet stall but he wont reuse it because it will void any warranty for the reman so, I need a new converter. Which I'd send mine to get it serviced but they're out 2 to 3 weeks.
Yay
Sorry to rant

I didn't look up the codes. but just as info, if you mean your torque converter is locking and unlocking a lot. I've heard of it being a brake light switch. it you touch the brake it unlocks the converter. so if the switch is intermittent it can cause it to lock and unlock
 

89Suburban

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How can I prevent these wires from sticking to the plug? 5 out of the 8 ended up breaking. This set has been on since 2019 roughly about 60k miles

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What's weird is that the crimped end was super easy to pull out of the plug once it ripped off the wire

It's one of the few things I hate on these rigs. I don't know the answer. I tried dielectric grease on the boots, they still rip off. I got special pliers, nothing works. I keep a set of spare wires on hand just because of this. I got a messed up #7 cylinder I got to check the plug on once in a while.

@Trey Hardy
 

Doubeleive

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How can I prevent these wires from sticking to the plug? 5 out of the 8 ended up breaking. This set has been on since 2019 roughly about 60k miles

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I have not ran any short wires or headers in years but when I did the fix was to use ceramic wires and/or a protective covering, fire resistant cover something like these
they worked quit well. they worked as designed.....
the heat is what causes the problem, that's why the oe wires have a heat shield
 

j91z28d1

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dielectric on the boots and keep the metal heat shields on and I've never pulled one out. I do have the special pliers too thou?


just twist them to break the seal and pull while wiggling. haven't broken one on an ls, I don't think ever. pulled some out of the old sbc cheap wires thou.



I run Magnecor on the ls3 car. guys complain about them pulling out, but had them off countless times without issue but that is with heat shield.
 

Grady_Wilson

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I replaced the 12v power outlet bezels and covers.
One was broken off completely and the other one was just barely hanging on for the last year.

RA had genuine GM pieces for like $3.67 each plus shipping.
I should have ordered some extras but I want to add USB outlets to at least one of the power outlets.
 

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RooTBeeRthe1st

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Finally washed the outside, interior needs a deep clean.
Coolant is a tad low. Didn't check oil but I'm sure it's below full.
Also dash crack is getting worse... been stable for a few years with 1 small crack between the airbag and defrost vents.
Now it's still that one crack, but the dashboard started to drop down about 3/8" below where it should be.

Probably going to look into pulling the cover out and some plastic weld of something to brace it and flush again...we shall see.
 

89Suburban

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I am pleased to report that my driver's side floor pan is now finally bone dry after sealing the shark fin.

I also got a rash of sh*t from co-workers, F & F about the factory rims, so I swapped the PPV wheels back on to S them TFU.

Had some hot wings with blue cheese, curly fries and a Snickers ice cream cup. Heading to la la land now.
 
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