Yep, if you look at the diagram, the two signals are spliced together...
If it keeps happening, you could unplug one of the ajar switches to test, as the other will still work.
I would be especially careful with the wiper while disabled.
I remember having codes for my tilt sensor when that was the culprit..
Since you got liftgate open messages, I would guess it to be the hatch or the glass..
Seems like they share the AJAR signal the more I look at it..
They have seperate sensors. Liftgate Open/Ajar or Liftglass Ajar. I would have assumed the Tech2 would show it, but can't find it in the Tech 2 Paths..
If you have the factory tilt sensor, and it's still mounted on the lower airduct, there is a TSB about relocating it..
Mine used to go off all the time, I just removed it instead.
Opening it, there is a metal dome on a circuit board about the size of a half dollar with liquid inside.
Prefer a tiny bit more rake unloaded, and I anticipate adding some weight in back. (thinking drawers) This photo shows RC 2"? front level spacers, no rear spacers, 3rd row seats removed.
I saw those, seems like they only have 1.5". Which who knows maybe what I need,
but I figure I'll start at the minimum.. (well I've seen 1/2" and 3/4" also but I think 1" is good?)
Might try these "streetrays" from ebay..
https://www.ebay.com/itm/305137341426
except I'll probably get the...
Now you make me want to raise the park rev limit..
Could be a separate issue the misfire count, but for sure too much knock retard.
Something is setting the knock sensors off.
No rush here, I'm still waiting to put my replacement motor mount bolt in :)
Soon, real soon. I bought a used OEM bolt from ebay and everything. Patina should match..
Cooler days ahead.. My head was thinking about clogged cats and broken transmission parts..
but a little noise (which I never...
Only thing that stands out is the continuous knock for a couple sessions..?
looks like it feels normal cruising slowly? Once you roll up past 3500 rpms it retards
I don't know if this is the problem, but I bet if you take the starter out and feel it in your hands, you'll want to replace it. :)...
^^^ Could be, right?! ^^^
actual timing should be actual.I saw a -12.5 degrees timing shown at one point.
I thought max was -10, but who knows there maybe some other adders or multipliers.
Looking at MY previous normal graphs, timing tends to stay above 16degrees (warmed up),
EXCEPT during...
Original starter?
Regarding motor mount bolts,
I heard no noises, and only noticed one bolt was missing.
Put wrench on the other 3, all loose!
I must have forgotten.. was extremely tired/weak.. or. I'm not saying it was aliens.. but.
max final timing maybe -10, but you can still have more retard.
So if his timing should have been 10 degrees at that moment, it would then be -3.4.
It's a lot of degrees, this is exactly what I felt with loose motor mount bolts.
saw a max of 13.4 deg knock retard in your first photo.
video shows you staying in knock retard.. I know what it feels like!
should be 0 knock for the most part..
check motor mounts, starter, anything close to the knock sensors that could be rattling..
Thanks for the isolator info Dustin!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073H7B8KF
The pictures there look like maybe 1.5" or 2" spacers. Mine are only 1"..
Not anodized finish like the photo, more of a painted finish.
Seems like, either these will be loose on the perch, or the spring will be loose on...
By middle vents, do you mean the roof vents? Then it could be the mode is not changing and not blowing to the roof?
All relevant info above!
Here's a pic... Actuators are behind unit most? years.
Loosen a few screws (base of evap case?) and one screw holds the top, then you can tilt the...
noticed this setting that claims a failed IAT or ECT sensor might put it into the 400kpa range (58psi)
Also High Flow mode.. Or Hot Fuel setting maybe..
I feel like if your fuel trims and O2 looks OK, pressure is good.. Don't really feel like it's a fueling issue..
You mentioned a tinkly...
Bought some Motofab 1" rear lift spacers from Amazon.
My concerns is when I stack them on each other, they do not fit snugly. There is about 1/8" of play. Enough I can slide them with my hands and make a loud clacking noise.
Not sure if they are purposely made this way, but either the cup...
Looking at the graphs, and watching the response.. nothing stands out to me.
(Of course I've only looked at my own logs briefly..)
Honestly sounds similar to my knock retard (loose motor mount) issue as far as bogging...
Definately look for knock retard..
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