I've got a 98 GMC Yukon and I'm wanting to change my wheels to a newer style oem set of wheels so I can go with larger diameter tires since I can find them pretty cheap with pretty good tires, so what years of newer oem wheels will fit on my obs?
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I was in the exact same boat about a month and a half ago, after I got the heads off I checked the cylinder walls. After seeing that there was virtually no lip on the cylinder walls and no scarring or grooves and saw that I could still see cross-hatching I decided to hold off. I've got 222,000...
Ok found it, open the cup holder all the way and take off the lower panel. If you look at the tip of my finger there's a little knob there, just turn it and it will come out and allow you to take the cup holder out
Took mine out not too long ago, if I remember right if you look on the bottom it's a really simply clip/spring lock thingy, also I think it's not necessary to remove the screws, I'll look at it in the morning and see if it'll jog my memory
I had a miss on a couple of cylinders after puttin on some heads, I would suggest revisiting the valve lash and do it with the engine at operating temperature but with the engine off, and the proper way. I bumped the motor until I got one valve slightly open then did the one on that cylinder...
Well I don't have a dial indicator to be able to measure it properly but by looking at the amount of movement which seems to be about a 1/2in in one direction. So really since its split, its about 0.25in of backlash. That can't be good
Right after you posted the one pic I googled adjustment on the diff and found that very same thing, that's a really good how to, too bad I can't adjust without pulling those stub axels
Yea the amount of play going into the front diff doesn't look good to me either. There's not much play coming from the TC, it is a little low on fluid and it's dark brown, I thought it was supposed to be blue because of the auto trac fluid? My dad did mention the chain stretching but I don't...
Today I put in new cv axels thinking it would cure the strange noise I'm getting when 4wd is engaged and goosing the gas, sounds like gears skipping. I filled the diff fluid and now it's full so it's not that or the cv's. The diff has some play in it, check the vid and see if that is normal...
Yea I replaced the heads last month and I was chasing this misfire demon ever since, I read a post on one of the other forums similar to this one and they said something about it being a factor, then after looking at a post where @SunlitComet posted some material everything just kind of clicked...
Sooooooo I believe I fixed it!!!
I pulled the passenger side valve cover and reset the valve lash on all 4 cylinders, put it back together and put my obd2 adapter on, started it and it started right up and I could feel a noticeable difference. Checked the scanner after I let it get up to temp...
Sooooooo I believe I fixed it!!!
I pulled the passenger side valve cover and reset the valve lash on all 4 cylinders, put it back together and put my obd2 adapter on, started it and it started right up and I could feel a noticeable difference. Checked the scanner after I let it get up to temp...
I've been searching this subject and I've found several different answers, anywhere from 1/8 of a turn to a full turn after reaching zero lash. So what is the CORRECT amount of preload on the lifters? Also if the valve lash and preload are not set correctly could it cause misfires and/or low...
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