Drive down the road (preferably a desolate one) and get it up to about 35-45 mph.
Then swerve left into the left lane and then right tinto the right lane. Repeat.
When do you hear the noise? Swerving left or right?
Noise comes before play with wheel bearings usually 85% of the time. The...
Too many variables on this one. You will need a scan tool that can provide EVAP data like Fuel tank pressure and a smoke machine to check for leaks. The most common issue with that code is a plugged up charcoal canister due to over fueling but one of may other issues can also cause the code.
Check the IGN A fuse in the under-hood fuse/relay box. Should be a 40 amp fuse.
Also check the "CRANK" fuse under the driver's dash area. Should be a 10 amp fuse.
If that checks out ok, look for 12V on pin 85 of the starter relay (under the hood in the fuse.relay box) when the key is in the...
Sound like either a weak vent solenoid or partially clogged or kinked vent line. The vent line is the smaller hose coming off the filler if you look at it from behind the fender. Make sure the smaller hose is not kinked.
None taken and I agree.
I'm not going to go back and quote the last 3 replies each from each of us but I'll summarize. Updated calibrations are released for a reason and many of them are released to address specific codes(s) and/or symptom(s) while others just for improvements for...
If you don't have the tools to do the further diagnostics, and it sounds to me like you don't, take it to a well respected indy. The well respected ones will charge you a flat rate (like I do of $100 88used to be 8288 and tell you exactly what is going on. The tools you need cost 10-20X that...
Don't search specifically for "GMT800" If you have a GM 5.3L search for that. These engines were used in many vehicles and not limited to the GMT800 platform..
I don't understand why you quated me on this as I:
1) Run an independent shop
2) Dealers charge more than I do.
3) While I dislike when people get $100 diags and then run, it's still $100 in my pocket and I gave the customer a good picture of the problem whereas a code-read from a parts...
That would be a good place to look.
I don't know what year make/model your truck is so I went with a 2003 GMC K1500 4WD with the 5.3.
Open the under hood fuse/relay box and pull out the starter relay. Turn the key to "On" (Position 2 - the place just before crank). Jump pins 30 and 87 with a...
42 seems a bit low for a new pump/filter. Maybe your fuel pressure gauge is off calibration? Try another gauge? Maybe you have a leaking fuel pressure regulator? After you shut the engine off, pull off the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose. There should be no fuel coming out of the vacuum...
Check your terminals before you hook them up. Also, once the truck is running, put a voltmeter on the battery and see if you are getting about 14.4 Volts. If you're not, your alternator is not charging and that is causing your battery to go bad.
They work fine with copper electrode plugs. The fail is the parts counter guys who sell a customer a set of platinum or iridium plugs and then SUGGEST THAT TOOL and a packet of anti-sieze (nothing wrong on the anti-sieze). They don't know any better so BYOB (Bring Your Own Brain).
If you want to save money and only have one cat per bank, I'd look at having a shop weld in universal cats if you're just going to sell it anyway. The price difference of a couple welded in cats is about $400-$600. The cost of a factory y-pipe at a dealership is easily over $1000 just for the...
This is running fuel pressure. Have you changed to fuel filter lately? You should always change the filter when you change out the pump. If the filter is plugged up it can cause the new pump to fail sooner due to having it have to work harder.
Pull the battery terminals off and check them for corrosion. Unless the battery is so sulfated that it actually acts as a resistor, you should be able to jump it if you have clean battery connections.
If they are corroded, get a container of almost boiling hot water and pour it over the...
Stop backing up into snow banks. Since you know what it sounds like, i can deduce that you've done it at least once. ;)
Honestly I'd check the rear drum brakes (parking brakes) if the linings on the pads (disc brakes) are still thick.
Most likely E-85 tolerant o-rings and seals. As mentioned above, the Z vs T is for flex and non-flex fuel compatible fuel systems.
If you plan on keeping the truck and never running E-85, I wouldn't worry about it.
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