I’d say it’s safe to run the U style for like 1 inch anything past that you’ll want to get the style that goes on top for obvious reasons.
They are all basically hunks of metal so brand to brand I don’t think there much difference just make sure they’re metal.
When in doubt, swapping over the lift spacer to a new factory strut is a safe choice. Off the top of my head I don't think there are many offerings for 3.5, you might have to step it up to a set of Fox coilovers and set the height yourself
I’ve had a bit of a rear end clunk lately and after doing all my usual panhard bar clunk tests like rocking the body back and forth on the side steps or rear bumper I wasn’t able to replicate the clunk.
But by simple pushing on the side of the Tahoe I was able to have my wife replicate the...
The XJs use glass headlights but the bulb is integrated so you need to swap the whole thing out anyways and I've owned a few Xjs that needed headlights, these lasted 16 years so can't say either is better or worse
Just adding that the "in the green" is a wide range, I've gotten terrible alignments that were visually ugly and destroyed my tires very quickly but were "in the green" and I didn't know any better at the time to do anything about it.
After all the trimming is done the hard limiter of running larger tires is the body. I used this guide to push it back and gain a ton of clearance. It seems extreme in the beginning but I've done worse to my Tahoe just offroading.
https://norcaltruck.com/2007-5-2018-chevy-gm-large-fender-mod
@SaintAlph It depends on how bad it is, some are worse than others but it's easy to pass the "level" look and end up looking squatted. Sounds like the front struts might have been replaced at some point and they used stock struts instead of z71 struts
@ABN45 I just have Moog HD springs which only gives like 1 inch, maybe 1.5 inches of lift.
The 5 Inch lift looks alright but it doesn't address the rear control arms which is a bummer.
@ABN45 You only need about 2 inches of lift to fit 33's on factory wheels. Heck I'm not really lifted and I'm running 33's on factory wheels.
If you lift above 3 inches you might want aftermarket wheels or it will look like you are on stilts, aftermarket wheels with a wider offset will give...
@ABN45 I recommend not lifting above 2.5 inches without a lower control arm drop kit, with that kit you will be stretching the suspension well outside of it's designed range.
How big are your tires?
Took it to the shop yesterday, they said that after tightening the CV nut and greasing the lower and upper balljoints the clicking stopped. They did it all at once and don't know what the fix or the problem was. I verified myself when I got home that the driver wheel is no longer clicking when...
@TahoeinTN That's interesting, I can't think of a reason it would say you need wheel spacers. For their aftermarket control arms you can run into rubbing if you don't use spacers but you should be ok with those factory wheels with just a little level kit
@opfor2 I've found it's easier to go through the retailer, I would have them send you a new part and then just take the parts out that you need and send them the tie rod you didn't install back to them
@Prometheus_Lens I would install the spring and run it to see how far it lifts it first but yes you'll need some upper control arms and maybe a diff drop if you add additional lift but honestly the upper control arms don't solve geometry they only solve clearance and the ride will degrade the...
@swathdiver Well Just tested without the tie rod attached and still have the knock, I can't identify where it's coming from this is driving me absolutely insane. I have an appointment on monday to have a shop take a look at it for me.
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