'01 Burban high oil PSI and crappy MPG's ??

[MassHoe04]

I have about 205k and run 5w30 here in New England, where we run from near 100F for times in summer and sometimes below 0F in winter. Runs and sounds great for an 18 year old engine!

10W-30 and 5W-30 end up the same viscosity at temperatures above 100F.
But , the 10W-30 gets much thicker than 5W-30 in cold temperatures.

In cold climates, there is some risk of some things in the engine to not get full oil protection with 10W-30 until after the engine warms up.

The damage might not be overnight or even noticeable, but the thicker oil at colder temperature might make it difficult for the oil to make it to everything it needs to protect at first. It could speed up the wear on some of those parts in the top of the engine (valves especially).

If the engine sounds terrible with 5W-30 and much better with the 10W-40, there are other issues that might need to be addressed (rings, bearings, valves, etc.).

In hot climate, 10W-30 would be fine.
With cold weather, I would be hesitant to run the heavier oil.

 

[Mudsport96]

Yes 5W-30 when it was NEW !! No it's got 200K miles !! Was told by many folks 10W30 wont make much of a difference??? But winter is coming and moving to Chicago area soon so I'm changing oil filter again and use Shell rotella gas/truck I have in my oil stash

Manual Fuel pressure not option at moment

Dave

The 5.3 in my Silverado used 5w30 till 390k and was reading fine. Then the father in law gave it to me for the daughter because it had oil pressure issues. Well it was the famous oring failure. So replaced that and it was reading low because he drove it with low pressure for so long. I run 10w30 in the winter and 10w40 in the summer now because in sure he caused excessive wear to the bearings. So unless you did something similar, ill bet 5w30 is fine for you.
Do you have a scanner that you can watch knock retard? Torque Lite and a cheap dongle and you can see quite a bit of information. It may be that the knock sensors are seeing something and pulling timing. Is the cooling fan clutch stuck? That will kill power and mpg

 

[bayareadude84]

I have about 205k and run 5w30 here in New England, where we run from near 100F for times in summer and sometimes below 0F in winter. Runs and sounds great for an 18 year old engine!

10W-30 and 5W-30 end up the same viscosity at temperatures above 100F.
But , the 10W-30 gets much thicker than 5W-30 in cold temperatures.

In cold climates, there is some risk of some things in the engine to not get full oil protection with 10W-30 until after the engine warms up.

The damage might not be overnight or even noticeable, but the thicker oil at colder temperature might make it difficult for the oil to make it to everything it needs to protect at first. It could speed up the wear on some of those parts in the top of the engine (valves especially).

If the engine sounds terrible with 5W-30 and much better with the 10W-40, there are other issues that might need to be addressed (rings, bearings, valves, etc.).

In hot climate, 10W-30 would be fine.
With cold weather, I would be hesitant to run the heavier oil.

Ya I'm in Dallas we had like 75 days?? of 100+ this summer. So I feel 10W-30 is BARE minimum for these old high mileage trucks down here. I have heard and spoken to Some other GM truck guys in Texas who run 40 weight in the summer 5W-40, 10W-40, 15W-40 !! It just gets WAY to hot down here in the summer to run any W30 oil lol
This is one of the reasons im moving back north !! Had enough of the heat and humidity down here NO THANKS !!

 

[bayareadude84]

The 5.3 in my Silverado used 5w30 till 390k and was reading fine. Then the father in law gave it to me for the daughter because it had oil pressure issues. Well it was the famous oring failure. So replaced that and it was reading low because he drove it with low pressure for so long. I run 10w30 in the winter and 10w40 in the summer now because in sure he caused excessive wear to the bearings. So unless you did something similar, ill bet 5w30 is fine for you.
Do you have a scanner that you can watch knock retard? Torque Lite and a cheap dongle and you can see quite a bit of information. It may be that the knock sensors are seeing something and pulling timing. Is the cooling fan clutch stuck? That will kill power and mpg

Yup my other 01 burban wit 350K miles that I had was poorly maintained with Yellow bottle Pennzoil conventional and when I bought it was 1 year behind oil change so I flushed it and used 10W-30 with Rislone piston additive and drove it for 50K miles before I sold it last spring and it was running GOOD !!! with 38-40 PSI at idle

On my current 01 No engine noise, not even at cold start, No blow by smoke or CEL so I doubt its the the bearings

Fan clutch is HD version and brand new

Dave

 

[bayareadude84]

Hmmmm Maybe small chance the Fram XG oil filter is defective and messing up my oil PSI ??

Gonna change to new K&N oil filter this week and use this "Awesome sauce" oil since I have like 100 qts of it from Walmart/Autozone clearance sale 2019/2020

 

[Mudsport96]

Hmmmm Maybe small chance the Fram XG oil filter is defective and messing up my oil PSI ??

Gonna change to new K&N oil filter this week and use this "Awesome sauce" oil since I have like 100 qts of it from Walmart/Autozone clearance sale 2019/2020

View attachment 379849

You can use whatever filter floats your boat. My Silverado has 406409 miles on it as of an hour ago. And since 120k it has had nothing but orielly house brand oil and acdelco filters. Up to the point of the pump oring failure it carried 30psi at idle and 50 to 60 at highway speed with 5w30. Oil nowadays is oil, unless you get nongraded stuff from Dollar General that cant possibly pass an API test.
Does this rig have different gearing than the old one? That will play into it too.

 

[SnowDrifter]

I have about 205k and run 5w30 here in New England, where we run from near 100F for times in summer and sometimes below 0F in winter. Runs and sounds great for an 18 year old engine!

10W-30 and 5W-30 end up the same viscosity at temperatures above 100F.
But , the 10W-30 gets much thicker than 5W-30 in cold temperatures.

In cold climates, there is some risk of some things in the engine to not get full oil protection with 10W-30 until after the engine warms up.

The damage might not be overnight or even noticeable, but the thicker oil at colder temperature might make it difficult for the oil to make it to everything it needs to protect at first. It could speed up the wear on some of those parts in the top of the engine (valves especially).

If the engine sounds terrible with 5W-30 and much better with the 10W-40, there are other issues that might need to be addressed (rings, bearings, valves, etc.).

In hot climate, 10W-30 would be fine.
With cold weather, I would be hesitant to run the heavier oil.

I mean I run a 'thin' 0w40 in mine year-round. Thin, because Xw40 has a viscosity range and this is at the bottom of said range. Not much more than a 'thick' xW30. The whole 'thick oil for the summer' thing doesn't really hold weight. These engines aren't air cooled. They regulate their temperature pretty well independent of ambient conditions. Once everything warms up, oil pressure is the same in the negatives as it is in the triple digits. 0 degrees or 100 degrees doesn't matter when the oil temp is 200+ and stays there happily.

I'm running this OCI longer than normal and will pull a UOA to see where things sit. But that's a side quest...


To OP: What are your fuel trims? What sort of CAI? The factory intake is cold air.... Pulls from the fender. Aftermarket intakes can introduce turbulence across the MAF and negatively affect its function. Especially if it's oil-wetted and dirties up the sensor.
Also check your fan clutch. If it's stuck on, it'll make some drag. Though, not something I'd expect to be noticeable outside of fuel economy? Odd

 

[MassHoe04]

I mean I run a 'thin' 0w40 in mine year-round. Thin, because Xw40 has a viscosity range and this is at the bottom of said range. Not much more than a 'thick' xW30. The whole 'thick oil for the summer' thing doesn't really hold weight. These engines aren't air cooled. They regulate their temperature pretty well independent of ambient conditions. Once everything warms up, oil pressure is the same in the negatives as it is in the triple digits. 0 degrees or 100 degrees doesn't matter when the oil temp is 200+ and stays there happily.

I'm running this OCI longer than normal and will pull a UOA to see where things sit. But that's a side quest...


To OP: What are your fuel trims? What sort of CAI? The factory intake is cold air.... Pulls from the fender. Aftermarket intakes can introduce turbulence across the MAF and negatively affect its function. Especially if it's oil-wetted and dirties up the sensor.
Also check your fan clutch. If it's stuck on, it'll make some drag. Though, not something I'd expect to be noticeable outside of fuel economy? Odd

I'm with ya.

Please don't misread what I was saying... Not recommending weight changes by the season. I just prefer to run 5W-30, because I do think the 10W-30 might be just a little heavy on initial start-up when ambient air temperatures are very cold. My motto is: "if it ain't broke, don't rock the boat".

So far, mine likes the 5W, so I am sticking with it unless something changes.
Hmmm! SC does look attractive. Maybe for retirement...

 

[bayareadude84]

You can use whatever filter floats your boat. My Silverado has 406409 miles on it as of an hour ago. And since 120k it has had nothing but orielly house brand oil and acdelco filters. Up to the point of the pump oring failure it carried 30psi at idle and 50 to 60 at highway speed with 5w30. Oil nowadays is oil, unless you get nongraded stuff from Dollar General that cant possibly pass an API test.
Does this rig have different gearing than the old one? That will play into it too.

It has Same gearing as my other 01 I had 3:73 with G80

Just a heads up O'reilly's oil is WAYYYYYYYYYYYY over priced and comes out of the same factory as Walmart And AC/Delco filters are JUNK !! Especially those E-Core filters. Go to Walmart and compare side by side the cheap Walmart filters are EXACT same as AC/Delco= JUNK !!! Made by Champion labs they also make the STP filters for Autozone

Napa/Advance Auto/O'reillys sell MUCH higher quality house filters !!

Wix/Fram XG/Titanium/Purolator are top quality filters on market



....................Ya I learned a lot about this crap during COVID lockdown lol

 

[MassHoe04]

It has Same gearing as my other 01 I had 3:73 with G80

Just a heads up O'reilly's oil is WAYYYYYYYYYYYY over priced and comes out of the same factory as Walmart And AC/Delco filters are JUNK !! Especially those E-Core filters. Go to Walmart and compare side by side the cheap Walmart filters are EXACT same as AC/Delco= JUNK !!! Made by Champion labs they also make the STP filters for Autozone

Napa/Advance Auto/O'reillys sell MUCH higher quality house filters !!

Wix/Fram XG/Titanium/Purolator are top quality filters on market



....................Ya I learned a lot about this crap during COVID lockdown lol

NAPA Gold 1042 manufacturer is WIX!
Listed on the product web page.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/FIL1042?impressionRank=1

$12.99 before any discounts.

$11.69 with AAA discount (10% off)
or
$10.39 if you catch the Bucket Sale (20% off)

Walmart has the same one listed for $9.62, but...
$18.00 minimum for free shipping
OUT OF STOCK online.

If they have them on the shelf at local Walmart store, then definitely a great price.

NAPA is still a good back-up for WIX filter, if you don't have time to chase around town.