See if it happens again after it warms up. If it's clogged cats they will plug again once they get hot. Your dead battery may have cleared codes also.
03 Yukon - reduced engine power issue
- Thread starter DonnieBrasco
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DonnieBrasco
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I'll give that a shot tomorrow. I revved up to about 2k and held it there for 20 seconds or so but I didn't drive it or let it really warm up.
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DonnieBrasco
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Still haven't driven it yet. But I did crank it last night and give it some rpms and let it run until it warmed up to "normal" driving temps and let it run and nothing bad happened.
After charging the battery this weekend (it goes dead when it's just sitting in the driveway since this started happening), I checked the battery with my multimeter. With the car off the battery reads 12.2-12.4. When I crank the car and put a load on it (lights, radio, AC) the battery reads about 14.3. Even though it's reading 14.3, could there still be a bad voltage regulator in the alternator?
This is frustrating the hell out of me. Now I'm thinking it could be alternator, or battery, or both. Or it could just be a random happenstance from my shotty computer (it's been weird for years).
#1taho
5150TAHO
Possibly you have a bad cell in the battery. The volts are there but no amperage. The altinator is charging. Have you checked for a draw on the battery? First how old is the battery and then go get it load tested.
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DonnieBrasco
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Battery is around 4-5 years old. I've got a battery load tester I borrowed from my grandfather-in-law. I'll see if I can get that hooked up tonight and put a load on it.
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DonnieBrasco
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UPDATE...
I've been driving the car for two days without any issue. Knock on wood. Battery passed my voltage tests. As did the alternator. I put a load on the battery and it passed that as well. Next I checked wiring on the TPS. Passed the 5 volt reference circuit test. Passed the reference low (ground) circuit test. Passed the TP signal circuit test. Only one I didn't test was the TPS resistance test because I needed an analog meter or a digital with a bar graph and don't have either.
I'm kind of at a loss now. I'm keeping my scanner in my car so if it happens again I can scan the codes on the spot. I'm starting to wonder if this was just another random computer hiccup. I've had weird issues stemming from the computer for years now. But it hasn't been anything dire enough to pay to get a new computer programmed to my car.
I've been driving the car for two days without any issue. Knock on wood. Battery passed my voltage tests. As did the alternator. I put a load on the battery and it passed that as well. Next I checked wiring on the TPS. Passed the 5 volt reference circuit test. Passed the reference low (ground) circuit test. Passed the TP signal circuit test. Only one I didn't test was the TPS resistance test because I needed an analog meter or a digital with a bar graph and don't have either.
I'm kind of at a loss now. I'm keeping my scanner in my car so if it happens again I can scan the codes on the spot. I'm starting to wonder if this was just another random computer hiccup. I've had weird issues stemming from the computer for years now. But it hasn't been anything dire enough to pay to get a new computer programmed to my car.
Zigger21
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The auto shop can tell if you have a leak in your battery or if the alternator is not charging up to par and OBDII wont help I tried on mine and I took mine in and I have an electrical leak, the battery and alternator were good. So if you need a Denali Alternator I have one for sale because I was dumb and changed that before I had it checked out.
