05 Tahoe EBCM

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MassHoe04

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Question for here real quick. What's the best method for stopping fluid flow from the master cylinder when removing the abs pump? My EBCM screws are totally rounded. If I empty the system will I need to bench bleed the master cylinder even if I don't press the brake pedal with it empty at all? Is there anyway around having to bench bleed when emptying the system in general? Not sure if a gravity bleed would take air out of the master.

I already expect to have to use a scan tool to bleed the ABS pump after.
If you can find out what size and thread the connectors are on the lines, you could put bolts in after you disconnect each line, to stop the flow.
I have no idea what size they might be... Someone else might know. But that might do the trick.

Not sure how fast it would bleed out the master cylinder with all ABS lines disconnected. If it is not that fast, you might be able to keep the reservoir topped off (filled to the top) as you work. But that might only be an option, if the lines are leaking out kind of slow.

I am sure you will get some super trick from one of our veteran members.
 

nonickatall

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I am not one of the experienced members, but if you remove a line, you can use a piece of a plastic bag and a cable strap to secure it. To stop bleeding out of a hole, where you have removed the line, take a little piece of toilet paper or similar, form it, put it in a piece of a plastic bag and push it into the hole. Make sure you remove it completely before reassembling....
 

Rocket Man

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You don’t need to worry about the fluid- replacing the EBCM won’t let the brake fluid leak. Here’s 4 screenshots from my alldatadiy for my 02 which will be the same procedure. This shows “ without JL4” which is the RPO code for traction control but I looked and the instructions are the same for both types.
 

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JPVortex

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You don’t need to worry about the fluid- replacing the EBCM won’t let the brake fluid leak. Here’s 4 screenshots from my alldatadiy for my 02 which will be the same procedure. This shows “ without JL4” which is the RPO code for traction control but I looked and the instructions are the same for both types.
Yeah but I'm going to be taking the ABS module and EBCM out to replace the EBCM. I could just put fittings on the master cylinder where the lines go to the proportironing valves.
 

Rocket Man

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Yeah but I'm going to be taking the ABS module and EBCM out to replace the EBCM. I could just put fittings on the master cylinder where the lines go to the proportironing valves.
Why? Just follow the service manual procedure which is outlined in the steps I posted in those screenshots. You just need to lower it enough to get to the EBCM screws unless I’m missing something? There should be enough flexibility to access the screws.
 

Doubeleive

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I think he said the screws are rounded.
he did and it happened to me as well in which case the ebcm was simply cut off with a saw, the pump wasn't removed.
and when replacing the ebcm it has to be the exact same part number, no programming is required, plug-n-play
the part number is stamped on the top of the ebcm
taking the ebcm off does not allow air or anything to enter the pump.
 
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JPVortex

JPVortex

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he did and it happened to me as well in which case the ebcm was simply cut off with a saw, the pump wasn't removed.
and when replacing the ebcm it has to be the exact same part number, no programming is required, plug-n-play
the part number is stamped on the top of the ebcm
taking the ebcm off does not allow air or anything to enter the pump.
Oh no programming for exact part number? I'm very happy to hear that because I thought it would.
 
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JPVortex

JPVortex

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he did and it happened to me as well in which case the ebcm was simply cut off with a saw, the pump wasn't removed.
and when replacing the ebcm it has to be the exact same part number, no programming is required, plug-n-play
the part number is stamped on the top of the ebcm
taking the ebcm off does not allow air or anything to enter the pump.
What kind of saw aswell? Scared I'd cut into the pump
 

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