10 bolt to 14 Bolt, 9.5 sf swap

[67RS427]

Sounds like tons of fun... I had thought about getting these to center my rear axle up in the wheel wells but haven't done it yet... may not now... lol

They should be a direct bolt on. The arms are set in a jig at factory length before they are shipped... Only thing that needs the be adjusted is the panhard bar if you're lowered to move axle back over. He's having issues because it's a 14 bolt.

 

[kbuskill]

They should be a direct bolt on. The arms are set in a jig at factory length before they are shipped... Only thing that needs the be adjusted is the panhard bar if you're lowered to move axle back over. He's having issues because it's a 14 bolt.

My Burb is on a 4/6 drop so I would assume the pinion angle could use a little adjustment but not 100% sure.

Plus the reason for having these on a lowered truck is to get the axle centered up in the wheel well as lowering sucks the axle forward some.

 

[randeez]

do it.
sure the 14b didnt help any i'm still about 3/8" forward of center in the wheel well, back anymore and i have no room between the pumpkin and panhard bar. before it was a little over an inch but noticeable.

 

[randeez]

little update... the passenger side axle housing on the front diff was rusted pretty bad i didnt want to change it until i knew i could use the front diff and well ... it's been in and working pretty good for a few weeks so i guess i need to change it
I still have a very slight bit of vibration, nothing like before, could be any number of things cause i change stuff in bundles but i'm fixing/correcting it as i find it.
I grabbed some new rotors/pads for the front, while i was cleaning everything up i noticed the upper ball joint nut was just barely rubbing the cv axle right at the boot (looks like on both sides). if you dont have lowering spindles this wouldnt be an issue, I started with the passenger side (cause i was also changing out the axle housing) i cut the nut down a little bit 1/8-3/16" of an inch - with the drop spindles you need to cut the balljoint stud down anyway, my only concern was if the nut was locking with the indented top so i put some thread locker on it anyway. it cant physically back off very much before it hits the cv axle.

i'm going to go ahead and change the bearing/seal on the driverside as its a little loose feeling to me, i dont think it'll tighten up much but i've got to pull the axle and cut the balljoint nut down anyway so all i will have to do it pull the stub shaft and replace them

vibration may not even be drivetrain related, i think driverside header may be touching the frame, i've got to pull it out and "massage" it. also looks like my oil cooler lines are leaking so i'll order those and do everything on that side at once

 

[randeez]

 

[randeez]

 

[randeez]

little update...for the most part everything has been good for a while. early this morning i was out doing some dumb stuff, little high speed run with a bmw m suv he won

got home noticed a little grease working its way out from the inside of my front driverside wheel. pulled wheel and i would have thought the cv boot was demolished. started cleaning it all up, spun the axle a few times, i couldnt find anything wrong with the boot. kept cleaning up went ahead and pulled the axle out to look it over even better and there was the tiniest of slits in between bellows of the boot no idea how long it had been there for but runs this morning forced enough grease out to cover inside of wheel and fender liner.
the axle spacer i used on that side was pretty tight i may get ahold of incognito again and get the next smaller spacer in the mail or see if i can find someone with a lathe to take a little off - im thinking the axle may be in there so tight that it could have been pinched. ordered a new axle with different material for the boot i'll set it back up and hopefully all will be ok.

 

[Ryan Buck]

That's awesome, going to do that to mine someday too. Have you thought about putting in a 4x4 transfer case like the MP3024 from the 2500s?

Will that transfer case bolt up to the 4L60? I need to put a new T case In mine and I would prefer a stronger version if it’s out there. Wind it up to you what the NP246

 

[randeez]

im going to say no...the 4l60 has a smaller(and different spline) than 4l80 or 6l80s (which are the same)


pretty much zero problems after this swap also in case anyone wondering...hasnt really been driven much the past couple months but its been beaten when it has
will probably be going back to 3.42 gears after i get it back moving. doesnt really need the extra gearing of the 4.11 with boost

 

[swathdiver]

im going to say no...the 4l60 has a smaller(and different spline) than 4l80 or 6l80s (which are the same)


pretty much zero problems after this swap also in case anyone wondering...hasnt really been driven much the past couple months but its been beaten when it has
will probably be going back to 3.42 gears after i get it back moving. doesnt really need the extra gearing of the 4.11 with boost

Turbo motors don't like to pull on boost with gears for the most part. Back in the day with the Buick's, every time someone listened to the big block guys and swapped out the 3.42s for 3.73s or lower they went slower.