1998 Tahoe LS 2 door !help me!

[TruckBoss223]

Isnt that the rcx ? everything else is knuckles. the old DC 6.5 would have been perfect should have bought it when i wanted to 12 years ago

 

[sparg93]

I dont think you understand what i was getting at. All i want is 6" of lift. I was told by RCX guy that when you install the lift kit your going to have to crank a little to get the 6". I dont want to crank. I want the RCX lift since the wheel track stays the same with the stock geometry and leaving it perfectly level.

I DO NOT want a knuckle lift system. so what my plan was is this

if the RXC 6" lift is technically 4-5 inches with some cranking
then add the 2" or 1.5" torsion keys

that will equal 6" of true lift with nothing cranked and everything in stock geometry except the driveshafts of course.

I am not trying to go higher than 6"

Trust me, I understand what you're saying...6" is just an example! If you want a true 6" lift, then RCX isn't for you...look into other kits.

IF YOU LIFT ANYTHING ABOVE WHAT THE SUSPENSION LIFT GIVES YOU, YOU WILL INCREASE THE FRONT END ANGLES...PERIOD. AFTERMARKET KEYS ARE F*ING USELESS, YOU DON"T NEED THEM.

THE KEYS HAVE NOTHING TO DO WITH GEOMETRY ANGLE AT ALL., ABSOLUTELY NOTHING.

If you want, I'll still walk you through it over a call b/c there is something you are not understanding

 

[TruckBoss223]

ok ill pm you with my number right before i order it. just waiting for the truck to get back from the exhaust shop then the body shop

 

[sparg93]

ok ill pm you with my number right before i order it. just waiting for the truck to get back from the exhaust shop then the body shop

Something to take into consideration is the installation of this kit. In general it will cost from $1k - $1.5k for a professional to install this for you.

It's not overly difficult b/c the instructions are good, but you will be cutting, drilling and using an angle grinder on your truck...it's not custom fab work, but it's not like simply bolting in a few parts.

I'm slow, but it took me two solid days to complete the install and that was with someone helping me. There are a lot of spots to get hung up on b/c of rusty bolts, brake lines & flares, etc.

Also, when you do this, I highly recommend you take the time to replace your IFS parts if they are stock - pitamn, idler, idler bracket, tie rod ends - most important. You should also look into control arm bushings, steering gear etc.

I recommend this b/c you'll have your entire truck apart and those parts wear out eventually.

Hope this helps.

 

[98Doubledoor]

All i want to do is fit 35's on my tahoe with no rubbing and killing my front end. and take it through some small mud spots and through some water holes. Whats the best way to do that without destroying the front?

 

[clownracer]

you can stuff 35"s under a 3" bodylift and be gtg

---------- Post added at 07:53 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:49 PM ----------



here is a 3" bodylift with 36"s looks amazing

 

[tt660]

Simply brilliant. Man i just looked it up.. 1700$ for it. : (

Were?, I see for under 1200 with free shipping at rockymountainsusp.com

---------- Post added at 09:12 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:05 AM ----------

If you engaged your 4wd on the street over 35mph with 8" of lift in the front, you are going to have a nasty vibration running the OEM front driveshaft. Low speed 4wd you won't notice it but I'd bet you've got a pretty steep angle on that joint.

Also, the various lift manufacturers have differences in their systems...so just b/c it works for one lift, doesn't mean it will work for another. As an example, the RCX is NOT a true 6" lift, you have to crank your TB's to grab that extra height. If you crank an RCX lift that high, you will destroy your front end.

As the last poster mentioned, with the amount of $$ spent on IFS lifts, a SAS becomes a really nice option. However, unless you have fab skill and are really comfortable with custom work, shops charge huge $$ to SAS a truck and a properly built front axle with cost you a ton of money if you can't do it yourself.

Nope never had a problem with it, ran it like that for over a year. It's a true 6" drop, just like the old dick cepek which was a 6.5 drop, seen people with it cranked over 8". So i've read the rough country is only a 5'' drop with crank to get 6'', so my around 1.5" over my 6" drop is to much Ok...

---------- Post added at 09:19 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:12 AM ----------

I dont think you understand what i was getting at. All i want is 6" of lift. I was told by RCX guy that when you install the lift kit your going to have to crank a little to get the 6". I dont want to crank. I want the RCX lift since the wheel track stays the same with the stock geometry and leaving it perfectly level.

I DO NOT want a knuckle lift system. so what my plan was is this

if the RXC 6" lift is technically 4-5 inches with some cranking
then add the 2" or 1.5" torsion keys

that will equal 6" of true lift with nothing cranked and everything in stock geometry except the driveshafts of course.

I am not trying to go higher than 6"

The zone lift is a true 6" bracketdrop, no knuckle, no track width increase. The only welding that had to be done was relocating my exhaust crossover pipe. Did have to cut a few things thou. I am not trying to keep pushing the zone offroad, I really wanted the dick cepek but couldn't find it, I keep mentioning it because a lot of people don't know about it.

---------- Post added at 09:23 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:19 AM ----------

Isnt that the rcx ? everything else is knuckles. the old DC 6.5 would have been perfect should have bought it when i wanted to 12 years ago

The zone offroad is not a knuckle lift

---------- Post added at 09:25 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:23 AM ----------

ok ill pm you with my number right before i order it. just waiting for the truck to get back from the exhaust shop then the body shop

I don't know what your having done at the exhaust shop, but if you put any kind of lift you will most likely have to have the front crossover pipe move because of the front driveshaft.

 

[sparg93]

Great info Julian on the different lift types.

The DC lift is a REALLY nice lift as you pointed out TT...Bowtie runs one and even though it's a beast to install and pricey, the engineering is incredible.

Nope never had a problem with it, ran it like that for over a year. It's a true 6" drop, just like the old dick cepek which was a 6.5 drop, seen people with it cranked over 8". So i've read the rough country is only a 5'' drop with crank to get 6'', so my around 1.5" over my 6" drop is to much Ok...

Increasing your driveline angle by lowering the front differential 6" is going to cause a vibration, more noticeable the faster you drive. For the sake of a recommendation for a new four wheeler, to properly lift his truck, he needs the new front driveshaft.

Also, in my personal opinion, you can[ crank up to 2" and be relatively safe, but 2"+ cranking is a recipe for worn out parts and more time fixing the truck then playing in the mud

I don't mean to simply be disagreeable on your comments!

 

[tt660]

Great info Julian on the different lift types.

The DC lift is a REALLY nice lift as you pointed out TT...Bowtie runs one and even though it's a beast to install and pricey, the engineering is incredible.



Increasing your driveline angle by lowering the front differential 6" is going to cause a vibration, more noticeable the faster you drive. For the sake of a recommendation for a new four wheeler, to properly lift his truck, he needs the new front driveshaft.

Also, in my personal opinion, you can[ crank up to 2" and be relatively safe, but 2"+ cranking is a recipe for worn out parts and more time fixing the truck then playing in the mud

I don't mean to simply be disagreeable on your comments!

Nah it's good man, I get what you are saying. I agree about the 2" crank,I'm really closer to 1.5" on my crank. The thing with autotrac is that the driveshaft spins regardless if your in 2wd or 4wd and I never experienced any drive line vibration. The only thing i figure that differs with the zone, is that it rotates the front diff slightly, giving less of an angle on the drive shaft. Was just helping with what I went thru, besides my truck now has a np241 in it because my 246 developed a hole from the pump rubbing, stupid autocrap lol.
And oh yea love me some mud, all we have down here. Got a project for that, have another 2dr that getting some rockwells and boggers or tractor tires.

 

[sparg93]

Nah it's good man, I get what you are saying. I agree about the 2" crank,I'm really closer to 1.5" on my crank. The thing with autotrac is that the driveshaft spins regardless if your in 2wd or 4wd and I never experienced any drive line vibration. The only thing i figure that differs with the zone, is that it rotates the front diff slightly, giving less of an angle on the drive shaft. Was just helping with what I went thru, besides my truck now has a np241 in it because my 246 developed a hole from the pump rubbing, stupid autocrap lol.

I've never had a zone, but if it did rotate the front diff up a little bit, that would definitely help with the vibration. You're right on the money with the vibration regardless of 2wd or 4wd...on a somewhat regular basis I forget the np246 keeps that front driveshaft spinning all the time (I can't stand that design)

The 241 is a nice transfer case and it sucks your np246 fell victim to pump rub. This spring I'm rebuilding mine when I have the time and putting that aftermarket plate in.