2004 6.0 NV4500 Tahoe

[pwtr02ss]

Quit interrupting and stick to transmission knowledge until I have the 4l60 done!

 

[Dantheman1540]

well give the tune a shot and see what it do.

mostly i am just saying when you go thru the russk guide you should establish a stable airflow value at whatever rpm you are targeting. there really isnt any other way to determine that value than trial and error.

one other thing i would try is bumping up the minimum DFCO under: fuel>cutoff/dfco> stall, bump that up to like 1500. it looks like coasting it would drop into dfco mode but you arent compensating for it (tables zero'd out under the idle tab)

dont ever assume tables arent used - some of the calcs dont make a lick of sense for why they do what they do. And even cells within tables that you assume will never get cell hits need to be tuned for the same reason.
the ecu is not perfect 100% of the time, the data it sees isnt 100% accurate and its only as good as what youre telling it to do.

I get what your saying about the idle rpm, It has absolutely no problem idling even down at 675, it's the return to idle it doesn't like and more specifically a long coast while returning to idle. For example; If I compression brake by downshifting as I come up to the stop it is much less likely to stall, if I throw it in neutral at 60mph to coast and brake ride to the stop it's more likely to stall or climb to 1,300 at 15mph.

That DFCO stall makes a lot of sense bumped to 1,500 it is.

I totally understand some tables don't seem to be used but are in some vague way that makes no sense and even HPT them selves probably don't know wtf it does lol. Thats why I try to touch as few tables as possible and only touch stuff I understand which isn't much.

I did find a few other things I fixed such as a enable and disable value being the same which is a no-no as well as not having the spark tables match while making other changes.


Here's a question, what do you suggest idle RPM spart to be at? I have seen a bunch of people suggest raising it significantly like 26-28* to help avoid stalling but then sometimes I hear what appears to be audible knock when I lug the engine from a stop in 3rd gear. Although no kr is ever recorded in my histogram.

 

[Dantheman1540]

Jk bromigo you can post all you want in here

 

[randeez]

i doubt it needs/wants that much timing...but all the same who ever tuned may have put that much base into it and use the multiplier tables to knock it down at idle.
if you just log the idle does it actually see 27* of timing?

 

[Dantheman1540]

i doubt it needs/wants that much timing...but all the same who ever tuned may have put that much base into it and use the multiplier tables to knock it down at idle.
if you just log the idle does it actually see 27* of timing?

I believe it actually shows more like 25.9* not sure what multiplier would be causing that.

Did a couple revisions as I stopped for each errand I did after work. First tune file the one I sent you had the truck stall 5 or 6 times but it did not rev hang or shot up at 1300rp as it did before. I believe this was directly related to the throttle cracker table that I cut a bunch out of so I reverted back to the old TC table and the stalling seemed to go away but the rpm surge came back. So I will try removing 3% or so from the 12-16mph cells and try again tomorrow.

 

[Dantheman1540]

Nothing like nearly bricking your ECU in the Pubdix parking lot. Went in for some chicken wingz and did a tune revision before I left. Of course it fails to write and the starter won't even click over.......

Had to put it in slow write mode and then it took an agonizing 3 or 4 minutes to do its thing but, it worked and I made it home. I did notice a clicking coming from the rear ac junk before I wrote the tune and I think maybe an actuator got stuck and was causing the fail. Scary stuff because despite the fact I had my bench harness I didn't have an extension cord and I was well over 200' from a power outlet.

Things like this make me want a Holley or Haltech stand alone system.

 

[randeez]

small changes....

aand yea a fail to write sucks and usually need to "write entire" to get it to work again which takes a few mins

 

[Dantheman1540]

small changes....

aand yea a fail to write sucks and usually need to "write entire" to get it to work again which takes a few mins

It's hard to force yourself to do small changes moar is betterer after all.

I had a ton of issues with fail to write on this truck but, besides this one today they have been gone since I extended the harness of the chime adapter and I unplug it everytime I write now.

If standalone weren't so damn expensive and didn't require new gauges I'd do it. I'm surprised you haven't yet.

 

[pwtr02ss]

Keep learning sweet cheeks. I'm gonna steal all that hard work via questions. Just ask @iamdub . I did my entire avalanche by stealing all his hard work

 

[Dantheman1540]

Keep learning sweet cheeks. I'm gonna steal all that hard work via questions. Just ask @iamdub . I did my entire avalanche by stealing all his hard work

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