2004 6.0 NV4500 Tahoe

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Tonyrodz

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Just put an OEM T on there and you’ll be good for another 150k. That one looks original.

No do NOT buy a Dorman. Replace both of them also. GM Genuine 15055342 and 15055343 , one is black and one is white. The angle on them is slightly different from each other.
GM still sells them and they're very reasonable in price. Broke mine a few years ago leaning on it trying to fix something else. Of course coolant was hot, and it actually gave me blisters on my hand. SWEET :mad:
 
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Dantheman1540

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No do NOT buy a Dorman. Replace both of them also. GM Genuine 15055342 and 15055343 , one is black and one is white. The angle on them is slightly different from each other.
Thank you for the part numbers! The search bar really sucks I tried multiple ways to search for info on them because I know I've seen it on here 20 times yet came up with nothing relevant.
GM still sells them and they're very reasonable in price. Broke mine a few years ago leaning on it trying to fix something else. Of course coolant was hot, and it actually gave me blisters on my hand. SWEET :mad:
Ouchy! The plastic when it breaks is sharp as crap too.

+1 on OEM ONLY for the plastic connectors. Also, since you asked, these are what I'm running: https://jagsthatrun.com/collections/cooling-systems/products/traditional-hose-tee
What size 5/8 on all 3 right? I may just get some brass Ts and hose clamps since I already replaced the lines with nice silicon hoses.
I don't think you can vent the PCV system to atmosphere. Might be detected as a vacuum leak.
Lots of high-dollar cans are set up to VTA like the mighty mouse I have for my RCSB. The downside is you can often smell oil when parked and sometimes when driving and that gets old fast. I'll try it tho and see how I like it, if I notice a vacuum leak in a log ill report back. Either way I don't want oil in my intake anymore so something needs to be done.
 

iamdub

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What size 5/8 on all 3 right? I may just get some brass Ts and hose clamps since I already replaced the lines with nice silicon hoses.

Lots of high-dollar cans are set up to VTA like the mighty mouse I have for my RCSB. The downside is you can often smell oil when parked and sometimes when driving and that gets old fast. I'll try it tho and see how I like it, if I notice a vacuum leak in a log ill report back. Either way I don't want oil in my intake anymore so something needs to be done.

If they were the same size on all three, then nobody would've had to push so hard to have anyone make special Ts for our rigs. We'd all just go to Home Depot for brass 5/8" Ts or order up some aluminum or stainless ones off Amazon or somewhere.

I'm not 100% about NBS, but mine was 3/4" off the firewall, 5/8" to the water pump and 1/2" to the rear heater. So, when ordering from JTR/Stealth, "Size A" would be 3/4", "Size B" would be 1/2" and "Size C" would be 5/8".

As the others have said, the OEM plastic ones are fine. But, if you do a lot of work in the area and are often at risk of cracking them, metal ones with hoses are much more forgiving. You'll just have to accept the aesthetics of multiple clamps in close proximity. I used constant tension clamps from GM, Honda and Ford (salvage yard digs) and positioned them all in line to look as clean as possible as well as easily accessible with long needle-nosed pliers.


The vacuum in the intake manifold is used to pull the crankcase air rather than just let the pressure that builds find its own way out through the available port(s). I suppose you could let it work like the old school engines and let it vent, but cap off the port in the intake manifold. You'd also have to cap off the port in the intake duct and put a catch can and breather on that passenger side because it will then work like the driver side and just be "another way out".
 
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Dantheman1540

Dantheman1540

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If they were the same size on all three, then nobody would've had to push so hard to have anyone make special Ts for our rigs. We'd all just go to Home Depot for brass 5/8" Ts or order up some aluminum or stainless ones off Amazon or somewhere.

I'm not 100% about NBS, but mine was 3/4" off the firewall, 5/8" to the water pump and 1/2" to the rear heater. So, when ordering from JTR/Stealth, "Size A" would be 3/4", "Size B" would be 1/2" and "Size C" would be 5/8".

As the others have said, the OEM plastic ones are fine. But, if you do a lot of work in the area and are often at risk of cracking them, metal ones with hoses are much more forgiving. You'll just have to accept the aesthetics of multiple clamps in close proximity. I used constant tension clamps from GM, Honda and Ford (salvage yard digs) and positioned them all in line to look as clean as possible as well as easily accessible with long needle-nosed pliers.

Yeah I figured they would be different, so dumb they did that! I ordered two from your link they look supernice! I know I'll bump plastic ones again and again so might as well buy once and cry oncee. Thank you for the link!
 

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