2004 6.0 NV4500 Tahoe

[Tonyrodz]

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[iamdub]

Geek.

Totally!


But, hey, when you geek out on sub enclosure specs and end up with a 5" sub that can rattle the lid on your crawfish pot 30' away at 45 Hz...

 

[Rocket Man]

Totally!


But, hey, when you geek out on sub enclosure specs and end up with a 5" sub that can rattle the lid on your crawfish pot 30' away at 45 Hz...

Yeah I used to mess with that stuff about 40 years ago. I took a stint at a car stereo shop doing installs. I learned the trade myself on the job, and that was before the internet. You couldn’t just look shit up on YouTube, you needed to get the specs from books and manufacturers materials. I built some damn nice systems, entire pickup beds turned into massive enclosures. I got some huge tips. Guys were willing to share tricks and notes, we figured out how to integrate alarms and remotes into the vehicle systems. I kept notes of every vehicle I worked on, color codes of the wires that operated the locks, starter relays, etc. After less than a year I was faster than everybody else because of my notes so I got to do the bigger more complicated installs. But like a lot of my past endeavors I can say I’ve been there done that and now I don’t get too crazy about my systems. I don’t need shit that loud anymore, I wanna still be able to hear in 20 years. Plus I’m lazy.

 

[Dantheman1540]

You wanna gradually stretch the surround and spider, but mainly the surround. It's rubber that has been in one position since being made. Ever got a new rubber band out the bag and immediately stretched it too far, too fast and it snapped? So you grab another and stretch it a little at a time and you can feel it limber up. After that, it stretches to that length much more easily. Same effect with the sub's surround. Hot weather helps the break-in go much quicker.

When I break in a new sub, I leave it in my shop, either free-air or in an oversized vented box if available, and play test tones on repeat from an Autosound 2000 disc I copied to my shop PC. I start at nearly mid-bass notes and gradually drop the frequencies, playing each one for about five minutes until I get into the lower bass frequencies, then I play them a little longer.

Dang good info! I'll assume the 100* heat broke it in quicker and crank up some RATM on my way to work tomorrow.

 

[iamdub]

Yeah I used to mess with that stuff about 40 years ago. I took a stint at a car stereo shop doing installs. I learned the trade myself on the job, and that was before the internet. You couldn’t just look shit up on YouTube, you needed to get the specs from books and manufacturers materials. I built some damn nice systems, entire pickup beds turned into massive enclosures. I got some huge tips. Guys were willing to share tricks and notes, we figured out how to integrate alarms and remotes into the vehicle systems. I kept notes of every vehicle I worked on, color codes of the wires that operated the locks, starter relays, etc. After less than a year I was faster than everybody else because of my notes so I got to do the bigger more complicated installs. But like a lot of my past endeavors I can say I’ve been there done that and now I don’t get too crazy about my systems. I don’t need shit that loud anymore, I wanna still be able to hear in 20 years. Plus I’m lazy.

This you in the black hat and tank top?

 

[iamdub]

Dang good info! I'll assume the 100* heat broke it in quicker and crank up some RATM on my way to work tomorrow.

Heat helps fo sho! I once saw where kid up north installed a system as a winter project and immediately went full send. The cones split and the surrounds ripped. This was back when Kenwood first came out with those "Tornado" cones. Good thing we are "people of the sun" otherwise you'd be "killing in the name" of bass.

Play it "calm like a bomb" for a little while at first and you'll be fine.

 

[Dantheman1540]

So the other day I had some ECU issues after trying to write a new tune file. I posted in another thread but I like keeping this updated for my own records.

Conditions during first failed write calibrationController Unlocker Timer Failed)

-Head lights off
-Cab and dash lights off/dim
-Radio off
-AC blowers off

After first attempt I did the following to try and eliminate possible culprits: Same failure (CUTF)

-Pulled entire radio
-Disconnected AMP
-Disconnect battery and let sit for 30 mins+
-Disconnect AFR gauge
-Different USB port on laptop
-Laptop charged 100% plus plugged in
-Laptop restarted and all other programs shut down
-Hooked battery charger to battery during write
-Hooked my Tacoma up with jumper cables to give extra juice
-Unplugged ECU and inspected connectors and pins


Temporary solution was using P59 ecu from 2005 Silverado.

Finally I went and grabbed the ECU out of my other truck that's tore apart and swapped them. First attempt I got the same error, Second attempt reminded me that I was flashing a file with the wrong operating system as my RCSB runs on a 4bar MAP OS vs my Tahoe on a MAF OS which means instead of just writing a new calibration I had to rewrite the entire operating system. First attempt at writing entire it made it to 30.8% and then stalled out giving me the same damn error! Attempted one more time and after about 20 agonizing minutes it successfully wrote and the truck is good to go again.

Going in investigate the following to prevent future issues:

-Bench harness flash the troublesome P59 to try and revive it
-After market radio chime adapter
-Bad ground somewhere (Possible cause of the occasional P2135)
-OBD2 port pins and possibly replace the port completely

 

[Dantheman1540]

250k miles should be rolling over on the odometer in the next day or two so I figured I'd do a little maintenance and reflection back on my 11 months of ownership. I can't seem to find an exact amount of miles it had when I bought it but my maintenance log book says the first oil change was done at 236,774 which was a week or so after driving it to Florida from Austin Texas. The motor had 15k on it since a refresh so I'll assume it has about 30k now.

Today's maintenance included:

- 15w45 full synthetic oil change with XL Wix filter
- Top off coolant
- look for leaks and loose stuff
- Wipe down engine with VPR

Oil looked great as did the magnetic drain plug and oil filter except...... I noticed some minor sludge in the oil filter. It's been about 4 months and 6k miles since I changed it last and I used Amazons basic full synthetic 15w45 last time. First time I've ever seen anything like this in a filter but I also don't typically run oil for over 5k or use Amazons house brand oil. No big deal motor seems super healthy I didn't see the slightest hint of metallic particles anywhere.

Next on the list:

- Center cap from discount tire that they lost a month ago and haven't been able to find a replacement yet but should be here tuesday.
- Find a way to get rear bags to hold air for longer than 5 days.
- Continue to gather coilover conversion parts for the front. (Still lacking shocks and springs.)
- Red Silverado style tail lights
- Make cruise control work
- Bigger cam and better valve train (Currently running PAC1297 I think)
- Along with cam send my spare set of 862 heads out to get properly ported.


Really love this truck best DD I've had in a long time. This forum has helped me a ton and I really value all your opinions. So let me know what you would do next if it was yours!

 

[Tonyrodz]

250k miles should be rolling over on the odometer in the next day or two so I figured I'd do a little maintenance and reflection back on my 11 months of ownership. I can't seem to find an exact amount of miles it had when I bought it but my maintenance log book says the first oil change was done at 236,774 which was a week or so after driving it to Florida from Austin Texas. The motor had 15k on it since a refresh so I'll assume it has about 30k now.

Today's maintenance included:

- 15w45 full synthetic oil change with XL Wix filter
- Top off coolant
- look for leaks and loose stuff
- Wipe down engine with VPR

Oil looked great as did the magnetic drain plug and oil filter except...... I noticed some minor sludge in the oil filter. It's been about 4 months and 6k miles since I changed it last and I used Amazons basic full synthetic 15w45 last time. First time I've ever seen anything like this in a filter but I also don't typically run oil for over 5k or use Amazons house brand oil. No big deal motor seems super healthy I didn't see the slightest hint of metallic particles anywhere.

Next on the list:

- Center cap from discount tire that they lost a month ago and haven't been able to find a replacement yet but should be here tuesday.
- Find a way to get rear bags to hold air for longer than 5 days.
- Continue to gather coilover conversion parts for the front. (Still lacking shocks and springs.)
- Red Silverado style tail lights
- Make cruise control work
- Bigger cam and better valve train (Currently running PAC1297 I think)
- Along with cam send my spare set of 862 heads out to get properly ported.


Really love this truck best DD I've had in a long time. This forum has helped me a ton and I really value all your opinions. So let me know what you would do next if it was yours!


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Do you have the trans temp gauge in your cluster?

 

[Dantheman1540]

Do you have the trans temp gauge in your cluster?

I do not. Whenever this cluster has a bulb go out or a stepper motor start to die its getting sent off and bedazzled a little along with a trans temp gauge. I will have to pull one of the PTO ports tap it for a sensor and figure out wiring. But it's something I've wanted to do since I fried the original NV3500 in my rcsb by getting it hot on a long tow trip.

The nv4500 in my rcsb has these nifty FAST coolers on the PTO ports that come with a tapped port for a sight gauge or sensor so that may be the route I go. I know these things get hot because they are untouchable after a long drive. Would make me feel better towing in OD vs 4th gear if I could keep watch of the trans temps.