2007 Brake Conversion on 2002 Tahoe - Brakes don't work???

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Doubleclutch

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Installed the 2007 rotors and calipers on my 2002 Tahoe as has been described in many threads. Everything bolted right up, no problems. Bled the calipers over and over and over... Topped off the fluid, etc. The brakes I removed were fine, just not what I needed with the 20" wheels.

The pedal is very squishy and the brakes don't work unless you pump them repeatedly.

Has anyone else experienced this? Did I miss something? Some help would be greatly appreciated, or I'm going to have to put it back in order to get a car back on the road.

Thanks
 

ScottyBoy

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Sounds like you got air into the ABS module. Were the calipers removed for quite some time? Or did you unbolt the old caliper and connect the new one within a minute or so? If you left the hose disconnected for a while, it's VERY likely that you got too much air into the lines. While I personally have not had this issue, I have heard of this happening to people and they ultimately ended up having to get someone with a pressurized brake bleeder to bleed the brakes for them. Or else a dealership with a Tech-2 diagnostic tool, the tech-2 can be used to trigger the ABS module to rapidly pulse and bleed the air out.
Also, if you did not bleed all 4 wheels, I would try that first before doing anything else.
 
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Doubleclutch

Doubleclutch

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I would say the first caliper I swapped in about 10 minutes, the second caliper was much faster, maybe 2 minutes. Being a squishy pedal, what you say makes perfect sense.

I will bleed all 4 at once. I wonder if Autozone or someone rents a pressurized brake bleeder?
 

Rocket Man

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You have to bleed all 4, starting with the passenger rear, then driver rear, passenger front, then driver front. Buy a gallon of fluid. I tried the vacuum bleeders but they sucked air at the bleeder valves and that was a waste of time and fluid. Best is use a helper but I did mine myself by putting the bleeder tube in a container with brake fluid so it couldn't draw air back in. You need to be able to see the hose though so you know when there's no more bubbles.
 
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Doubleclutch

Doubleclutch

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Thanks Scotty and Rocket! I've bled these things until the cows came home... same issue.

I'll take it in for the fancy pressurized bleeding this week.
 

afpj

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There's another thread on here somewhere that describes using the ABS by pressing the brake pedal part way during the bleed process and then turning on the ignition without turning the engine over. This activates the ABS module for a little bit to get the air out. The other method I recall is going out and driving the crap out of it and slamming on the brakes multiple times to force air out of the ABS system. That is a brief synopsis of what I recall.
Also, don't push the brake pedal all the way down during the bleed process...you end up bottoming out the master and killing the seal, requiring a new master cylinder.
 

Windwalker

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Take it somewhere you can drive get up to about 35-40 and slam on the brakes and get the abs to kick on. Do this about 2 or 3 times then go bleed them one more time. Not recommending this but I done it to mine when I did the swap and it worked
 

Windwalker

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There's another thread on here somewhere that describes using the ABS by pressing the brake pedal part way during the bleed process and then turning on the ignition without turning the engine over. This activates the ABS module for a little bit to get the air out. The other method I recall is going out and driving the crap out of it and slamming on the brakes multiple times to force air out of the ABS system. That is a brief synopsis of what I recall.
Also, don't push the brake pedal all the way down during the bleed process...you end up bottoming out the master and killing the seal, requiring a new master cylinder.
What this person said!!
 
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Doubleclutch

Doubleclutch

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Here's where I am presently:
Before going out, I bled each caliper using the pedal and ABS pump as previously described.

Went out, slammed the brakes. ABS engaged on the rear. Lost some pedal. Returned

Bled again with the pedal/ABS method.

Went out again. Slammed the brakes. Had more pedal this time, ABS engages the rear, but I have to pump the brakes to get the front calipers interested. Slammed several times. Returned.

Bled again. Slammed again. Bled again. Slammed again. I am getting no air and the fluid is shooting several inches in the air, then I abruptly close the nipple. I've left rear tire skid marks all over the neighborhood. Scared the crap out of some runners...

Brakes are better, but same result: If the brakes aren't pumped a few times prior to stopping, the front calipers just don't want to be part of the system.

Is it possible that I have the wrong calipers (I used the part numbers in the forum)? Could I have damaged the master cylinder, or maybe it was in need of replacement anyway? I've worked on some stubborn issues but this one has really been frustrating.
 

HiHoeSilver

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Here's where I am presently:
Before going out, I bled each caliper using the pedal and ABS pump as previously described.

Went out, slammed the brakes. ABS engaged on the rear. Lost some pedal. Returned

Bled again with the pedal/ABS method.

Went out again. Slammed the brakes. Had more pedal this time, ABS engages the rear, but I have to pump the brakes to get the front calipers interested. Slammed several times. Returned.

Bled again. Slammed again. Bled again. Slammed again. I am getting no air and the fluid is shooting several inches in the air, then I abruptly close the nipple. I've left rear tire skid marks all over the neighborhood. Scared the crap out of some runners...

Brakes are better, but same result: If the brakes aren't pumped a few times prior to stopping, the front calipers just don't want to be part of the system.

Is it possible that I have the wrong calipers (I used the part numbers in the forum)? Could I have damaged the master cylinder, or maybe it was in need of replacement anyway? I've worked on some stubborn issues but this one has really been frustrating.

Seems frustrating for sure. Which part # did you use? Have you tried @iamdub 's key on method?

Highly interested because I'm gathering parts for the swap...
 

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