2007 GMC Yukon - parked for 4yrs - best way to restart / checks etc ??

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StrkAliteN

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Vehicle has been sitting stored for 4years ( outside )

Was in perfect running condition when parked 4yrs ago.

2007 GMC Yukon 5.3l motor with just 70K miles on it.

New battery ( 4yrs ago ) all else in pristine condition when parked.

Any particular do's and don'ts when I attempt to restart it.

Is the gas OK ? Add fresh gas ? of course will likely have to jump start it.

Any thing to be careful NOT to do ??

thanks in advance
 

iamdub

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Vehicle has been sitting stored for 4years ( outside )

Was in perfect running condition when parked 4yrs ago.

2007 GMC Yukon 5.3l motor with just 70K miles on it.

New battery ( 4yrs ago ) all else in pristine condition when parked.

Any particular do's and don'ts when I attempt to restart it.

Is the gas OK ? Add fresh gas ? of course will likely have to jump start it.

Any thing to be careful NOT to do ??

thanks in advance


No way is that gas any good. Was any stabilizer added to the fuel when it was parked? Hopefully, it's still a liquid and not much in the tank. You can expect that battery to not only be dead but also junk and probably won't hold a charge. If there's not much fuel in the tank and whatever is in there is still liquid, pour in a couple cans of Berryman B12 and put about 1/2 tank of fresh fuel in it. Blow out the debris from the spark plug holes and remove them. Use a cylinder fog spray in all the cylinders and let it soak in. Turn the engine by hand (socket and large ratchet or breaker bar on the crank bolt) a few revolutions or until you can feel an improvement in its ease to rotate. Check all the wiring for damage from rodents. Change the oil and filter, taking note of the condition of the oil that's draining (color, thickness, smell, any water, etc.). Reinstall the spark plugs, unplug the coil packs and turn the key to the "on" position (not crank) for a few seconds, then off. Repeat this a few times then check the Schrader valve on the fuel rail for fresh fuel (cover it with a rag and depress the valve with a small screwdriver). If no fuel, either the pump is seized or fuel has hardened in the lines. If it has pressure and smells of fresh gas, crank the engine for about 10 seconds while watching the oil pressure gauge. Let it rest for a minute or two then crank again for another 10 seconds. If you saw the pressure gauge rise a little during the cranking, plug in the coil packs and crank again to see if it'll start. It'll likely miss and stumble and maybe even stall. Your main concern is if the lifters tick but quickly get quiet. Your second concern is if the injectors all start firing or if they're stuck shut.

This is just for the engine. The brakes will need to be serviced (including fluid flush) and the coolant and trans fluid flushed. Hopefully no critters chewed up the wiring or got inside and pissed and died.
 
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StrkAliteN

StrkAliteN

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WOW -

Is this the Berryman B12 product you are referring to?

https://www.amazon.com/Berryman-Che...1&keywords=Berryman+B12&qid=1619447146&sr=8-5




No way is that gas any good. Was any stabilizer added to the fuel when it was parked? Hopefully, it's still a liquid and not much in the tank. You can expect that battery to not only be dead but also junk and probably won't hold a charge. If there's not much fuel in the tank and whatever is in there is still liquid, pour in a couple cans of Berryman B12 and put about 1/2 tank of fresh fuel in it. Blow out the debris from the spark plug holes and remove them. Use a cylinder fog spray in all the cylinders and let it soak in. Turn the engine by hand (socket and large ratchet or breaker bar on the crank bolt) a few revolutions or until you can feel an improvement in its ease to rotate. Check all the wiring for damage from rodents. Change the oil and filter, taking note of the condition of the oil that's draining (color, thickness, smell, any water, etc.). Reinstall the spark plugs, unplug the coil packs and turn the key to the "on" position (not crank) for a few seconds, then off. Repeat this a few times then check the Schrader valve on the fuel rail for fresh fuel (cover it with a rag and depress the valve with a small screwdriver). If no fuel, either the pump is seized or fuel has hardened in the lines. If it has pressure and smells of fresh gas, crank the engine for about 10 seconds while watching the oil pressure gauge. Let it rest for a minute or two then crank again for another 10 seconds. If you saw the pressure gauge rise a little during the cranking, plug in the coil packs and crank again to see if it'll start. It'll likely miss and stumble and maybe even stall. Your main concern is if the lifters tick but quickly get quiet. Your second concern is if the injectors all start firing or if they're stuck shut.

This is just for the engine. The brakes will need to be serviced (including fluid flush) and the coolant and trans fluid flushed. Hopefully no critters chewed up the wiring or got inside and pissed and died.
 

Bill 1960

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Chris has pretty well covered it. A transmission that age, parked so long has a high potential for hardened O-rings and seals. As does pretty much everything holding fluid in the vehicle. When you get it running I’d let it idle in park or neutral until fully warmed up and let the engine heat up the transmission while fluid circulates.

It’s just a crapshoot with long parked vehicles. I’ve seen barnyard finds cranked up with fresh gas and driven. I’ve seen nightmares from vehicles that were allegedly stored properly. You just never know.
 

Joseph Garcia

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No way is that gas any good. Was any stabilizer added to the fuel when it was parked? Hopefully, it's still a liquid and not much in the tank. You can expect that battery to not only be dead but also junk and probably won't hold a charge. If there's not much fuel in the tank and whatever is in there is still liquid, pour in a couple cans of Berryman B12 and put about 1/2 tank of fresh fuel in it. Blow out the debris from the spark plug holes and remove them. Use a cylinder fog spray in all the cylinders and let it soak in. Turn the engine by hand (socket and large ratchet or breaker bar on the crank bolt) a few revolutions or until you can feel an improvement in its ease to rotate. Check all the wiring for damage from rodents. Change the oil and filter, taking note of the condition of the oil that's draining (color, thickness, smell, any water, etc.). Reinstall the spark plugs, unplug the coil packs and turn the key to the "on" position (not crank) for a few seconds, then off. Repeat this a few times then check the Schrader valve on the fuel rail for fresh fuel (cover it with a rag and depress the valve with a small screwdriver). If no fuel, either the pump is seized or fuel has hardened in the lines. If it has pressure and smells of fresh gas, crank the engine for about 10 seconds while watching the oil pressure gauge. Let it rest for a minute or two then crank again for another 10 seconds. If you saw the pressure gauge rise a little during the cranking, plug in the coil packs and crank again to see if it'll start. It'll likely miss and stumble and maybe even stall. Your main concern is if the lifters tick but quickly get quiet. Your second concern is if the injectors all start firing or if they're stuck shut.

This is just for the engine. The brakes will need to be serviced (including fluid flush) and the coolant and trans fluid flushed. Hopefully no critters chewed up the wiring or got inside and pissed and died.

Super clear and instructive response. Thank you, @iamdub Great instructive boilerplate and checklist for anyone to use in the future for a similar situation. Knowledge is power, and this site ROCKS!.
 

iamdub

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That's the stuff. I'm not a fan of snake oils, but B12, Seafoam and Marvel Mystery Oil seem to hold their own when used properly and within their intended purposes. I suggest B12 cuz it's half the price of Seafoam. You want a strong concentration of it to hit them injectors to start dissolving the old fuel. But, if there's any old fuel in the tank, you wanna dilute it. That's why I said about half a tank of fresh fuel.
 

exp500

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Theres going to be alot of shellac like gas still on sides of tank, siphon/pump out as much as you can before refilling. I would also remove the valve stem in fuel rail and pump for a while 30 minutes to clean lines.
And at least drain the water in the oil.
 
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StrkAliteN

StrkAliteN

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turned the key for the 1st time and it fired right up and ran perfect with the 3/8 tank of 52 month old gas ( added 1 can Berrimans above )

had to buy a new Interstate battery from Costco ( $114 ) - the old one just would not take a charge and come to life

will change the oil this weekend and top off the tank with fresh / new gas and add the other can Berrimans at that time.

Total relief ... I was afraid this was going to be a nightmare
 

intheburbs

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Maybe I'm paranoid, but I would replace ALL fluids before driving it more than a few miles - power steering, brake, axles, trans, transfer, coolant, engine oil.
 

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