2007 Tahoe Timing Chain Replacement

[Plimbob]

Going to replace the timing chain on my 07 Tahoe 5.3. I was order the melling kit but wasn't sure if I have the one or three bolt cam?
The engine code is '0'. I haven't torn it down yet.

Any feedback is appreciated.

Thanks,
Tim

 

[Gilla]

My 07 suburban has a single bolt. Think they all do from the factory.

 

[swathdiver]

Right, Gen IVs are single bolt camshafts unless AFM was deleted and a 3-bolt cam was used. Many prefer to use the Gen III style timing chain tensioner.

 

[iamdub]

Going to replace the timing chain on my 07 Tahoe 5.3. I was order the melling kit but wasn't sure if I have the one or three bolt cam?
The engine code is '0'. I haven't torn it down yet.

Any feedback is appreciated.

Thanks,
Tim

Single bolt cam is stock for the Gen4 LMG. As far as the chain is concerned, Gen3 and 4 are the same.

If you're that far in (water pump removed/coolant drained, crank pulley removed, oil pump out, etc.), why not do a full AFM delete? At the point of the timing chain, popping off the heads to swap the lifters and replacing the cam is only a couple hours more work, taking your time.

 

[Gilla]

Love the comment " pop the heads off" DANG you are funny!!!! maybe for the ones that have done a few but its been years since i tore one down this much. That WAS easy, tore it all down and went to work out. Now.....not so much

 

[iamdub]

Love the comment " pop the heads off" DANG you are funny!!!! maybe for the ones that have done a few but its been years since i tore one down this much. That WAS easy, tore it all down and went to work out. Now.....not so much

It's still a pushrod engine, and very much like the previous generations. It's actually easier and cleaner to work on since there's no valvetrain lash adjustments and has fewer parts due to roller fulcrums instead of pivot balls and nuts. The coolant is the messiest part of the job and that would already be drained. There's no coolant in the intake manifold. The steps to access and replace the timing chain are more tedious than R/I the heads and cam due to the R/I of the crank pulley and positioning of the front cover so the seal lasts and proper R/R of the crank bolt. The heads, lifters and cam and all related components are a bolt-on with the only "tedious" step being the factory TTY head bolts which can easily be circumvented with ARP bolts. The fact that it is so easy to work on is why I'd do a full mechanical delete if I were that far in rather than have to repeat all that and then some when the inevitable happens.

But, it is a 300K+ engine and maybe @Plimbob is just looking to do the minimum for now and if "the inevitable" happens, he won't be sour about it and would just sell the car or swap in a fresh(er) engine.

 

[Gilla]

Going to replace the timing chain on my 07 Tahoe 5.3. I was order the melling kit but wasn't sure if I have the one or three bolt cam?
The engine code is '0'. I haven't torn it down yet.

Any feedback is appreciated.

Thanks,
Tim

I do agree with IAMDUB. if you can swing it do the delete. I finished up yesterday with taking the heads to the machine shop. Ive got time to finish up the smaller things. My 07 5.3l is engine code 0 too. I am glad that i can do this. Guess it would cost me 3ish times as much for someone else . Rather do things myself. Lord knows its SO much easier now. I didnt have YOU-TUBE. I would go to a shop and ask questions. Most guys didnt mind giving me advice. This is awesome!!!

 

[Taheezy_88]

Going to replace the timing chain on my 07 Tahoe 5.3. I was order the melling kit but wasn't sure if I have the one or three bolt cam?
The engine code is '0'. I haven't torn it down yet.

Any feedback is appreciated.

Thanks,
Tim

If you haven't done the AFM delete then its a single bolt cam.

If you are going that deep into the engine I do the AFM delete. I have a thread where I did my afm delete last year and there is plenty of good info because I'd had asked alot of questions and there I all the right answers in there from the other members

 

[Plimbob]

Hi Guys,

Thanks for the clarification on the cam sprocket. I did contemplate doing the delete as several have suggested. But as IAMDUB commented, this old girl has 306,589 on her and I am trying to do the minimum so it runs Ok and I'll can try and find a new home for her with some young kid that can still crawl around under it ,etc. God knows, it ain't as easy as it once was...

It would be a lot easier if it didn't have to drop the front diff to get the pan off - not thrilled with that idea. None of the bolts come off easy underneath with all the salt miles on her!

As always, thanks for all your feedback and advice- greatly appreciated.
Tim

 

[iamdub]

Hi Guys,

Thanks for the clarification on the cam sprocket. I did contemplate doing the delete as several have suggested. But as IAMDUB commented, this old girl has 306,589 on her and I am trying to do the minimum so it runs Ok and I'll can try and find a new home for her with some young kid that can still crawl around under it ,etc. God knows, it ain't as easy as it once was...

It would be a lot easier if it didn't have to drop the front diff to get the pan off - not thrilled with that idea. None of the bolts come off easy underneath with all the salt miles on her!

As always, thanks for all your feedback and advice- greatly appreciated.
Tim

Is there a problem with the timing or are you doing this as a PM? Generally, the chain isn't much of a wear item compared to many other parts involved/somewhat involved in its replacement that are more of a wear item that should be attacked first. It's not like the older generations of engines where the timing sets show wear at 100K.

At 300K+, I'd let sleeping dogs lie if I were already in the mindset that the Tahoe would be going away unless it had timing issues due to slack in the chain. Replacing a timing chain in one of these is something you do if you plan to keep it for a long time and is a reason to refresh other items along the way.