67RS427
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Kooks 1 7/8" and Kooks Y Pipe... More pics coming soonWhat headers did u go with again??
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Kooks 1 7/8" and Kooks Y Pipe... More pics coming soonWhat headers did u go with again??
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I don't see it being an issue... I will take a better pic tomorrow. Here is a larger pic of the Y Pipe. Clearance to the transmission pan is good too, almost wondering if I should go with a deep finned pan with a drain plug. Changing transmission oil on these is a pain and messy...Looking good!! How's the clearance with the front drive shaft?
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I'd def do the drain plug. You'll be glad you did it the first time you change the fluid.I don't see it being an issue... I will take a better pic tomorrow. Here is a larger pic of the Y Pipe. Clearance to the transmission pan is good too, almost wondering if I should go with a deep finned pan with a drain plug. Changing transmission oil on these is a pain and messy...
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Looks like plenty of room thanksI don't see it being an issue... I will take a better pic tomorrow. Here is a larger pic of the Y Pipe. Clearance to the transmission pan is good too, almost wondering if I should go with a deep finned pan with a drain plug. Changing transmission oil on these is a pain and messy...
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Whos brackets did you use?I wrapped up today with some great progress. For the most part the supercharger install is done with only a few minor things to do still. Still need to get the heat exchanger mounted and installed as well as some wiring and intake fabrication but I'm very happy with where I left things off. I could have rushed this and done a back yard install but in the end I'll be happy I took the extra time to make sure everything is wired and ran correctly looking OEM. I had to make some modifications to the bracket kit I received just incase I want to remove water pump bolts without removing idler pulleys first. Everything lined up great and the belt rides in the MIDDLE ribs on the supercharger.
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Missing the finished weld picture of the idler bracket but I will update post when I pull it to paint. Also need to paint the Alternator/PS pump bracket and the PS Pump itself...
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Belt fits great, not too worried about belt slip at the moment but might be an issue when I downsize the pulley to increase blower RPM. Factory truck damper is only 7.5" vs 8.5" or larger on most LSA vehicles. Basically don't think I will be making enough boost but we will find out soon enough. I am ready to pull the trigger on an interchangeable blower hub/pulley system if needed.
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Kooks Y Pipe Installed...
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Tomorrow (Saturday) I should have the heat exchanger installed and most of the other odds and ends wrapped up. I will try to take more pictures, been very hard to multitask.
Brackets I got were from NextGen Performance, Link below... Only reason I had to modify the idler bracket is because my VVT setup. Seems the tuck water pump was revised or is different for VVT as it has a bulge where the bracket couldn't sit flat. I was able to fix that easily with 2 small cuts and a weld as seen above. The truck water pump also has more room behind it for the VVT stuff at top of the valve cover. I guess all in all if you were to do this yourself on a VVT truck I would suggest getting an F Body water pump and then get their kit that comes with 3/4"(?) spacers to get it lined up properly. Nothing I couldn't handle though.Whos brackets did you use?
Looks like plenty of room thanks
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