2008 Yukon Electrical Problems

[cessna1466u]

I just went through this with our 2008 Yukon. We drove all day, got home turned it off, tried to open the door locks and nothing. Complete loss of power. Went and moved the negative battery cable at the battery and power came back. Switched out the negative battery terminal and all is good now. What do you mean about loosing power? Is it complete loss or just some stuff?

 

[Steve08denali]

Did not read the whole thread but a few pages. This is a very common problem. Best diagnosis in my opinion is performing a voltage drop on all battery cables while cranking. Remove the injector fuses before performing the voltage drop test. Anything over 200mV or .2 volts replace that cable. I replace it even if it spikes above 200mV and then stabilizes below. I am a GM tech so I have seen a lot of these. Usually it is the ground and it is corroded where it bolts to the head. The new cable is updated with heat shrink on the cable crimp.

 

[the z]

Well I think I fixed the crazy electrical issues in our yukon, I noticed that the plastic wrap that goes around the neutral wire was almost gone causing the voltage sensor wire that is around the wire to bounce around. I put a good piece of wrap around the wire and slide the senor back over it and tape the ends of the wrap so it doesnt move and so far its been good with no issues for a couple months.

 

[ttechnorth]

We just purchased a 2009 Yukon Denali with 78k miles. When we went to the dealer to pick the car up the car died when pulling it up to the front. They put a new battery on it and had to re-calibrate the air conditioner it was blowing heat out of the drivers side and cold out of the passenger side. About a week later we made several stops and turned the car off. When I tried to lock it with the remote I did not hear it lock. Opened the door and it had no power at all. I wiggled the battery around and it started, but was blowing heat out of the drivers side and cool out of the passenger side. It sat for about and hour in our garage then started and air was blowing cold out of both sides. Took it to the dealer we bought it from and they said it was the alternator due to a bulletin out. Got it back and my wife tried to remote start it from inside the house and it would not start. That afternoon she got in it and it was blowing heat from the driver side and cool on the passenger side. It is at the dealer right now, but Im not confident that they can find the issue. Anyone else had these problems? Also every time it loses power the thermometer on the DIC shows like 55 degrees when it is in the high 90's. The air resets to 74 and the Navigation screen flickers. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[08grey]

Well I think I fixed the crazy electrical issues in our yukon, I noticed that the plastic wrap that goes around the neutral wire was almost gone causing the voltage sensor wire that is around the wire to bounce around. I put a good piece of wrap around the wire and slide the senor back over it and tape the ends of the wrap so it doesnt move and so far its been good with no issues for a couple months.

where is this location?

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 

[the z]

This is the sensor on the wire it has a plastic wire protector through the sensor to keep it stable but has broken apart more since I repair it. Will need to replace with new plastic wire protector but with the sensor not loose and bouncing it seems to have helped.

 

[TheLoveClaw]

This happened to my wife's 2010 Yukon over the weekend. She was pulling up to a left turn lane of a busy intersection and suffered a complete power loss. Couldn't put the hazards on or anything. Not the nicest bunch of people in this town. Anyway I pulled in front of her and jumped it with my car, put the negative to a ground on hers and everything immediately lit up. Got it home and noticed some corrosion around the ground wire. Removed the end from the battery and the engine block and scrubbed them both clean. Drove the truck around all weekend running chores and didn't see notice any issues. My wife said she did notice the voltage meter was reading pretty high before it happened.

 

[Lscheid]

Newbie here. Not really sure where to post this but I'll give it a try. I have a 2009 Yukon SLE. It had a bad battery for several weeks, slow starts, and it had to be jumped several times. Transmission ended up going into limp mode. Was told to replace batteryand check fuses under the hood in the main fuse box. Got the money and Replaced with new battery and checked fuses. Half of the all the fuses under the hood showed no current including TCM fuse and Transmission ignition module fuse along with several others. Replaced all fuses with new fuses, except for the relays. I don't know how to check if those are blown or if that's the problem. Once the new fuses were put it, they still show no current running to them. I'm at a loss with only one vehicle, lack of funds. I called several shops they all say electrical and possible blown fuse box or wire harness. Is there anything I can try on my side before I have to take it in? Auto zone hooked it up to the scanner and its throwing no codes at all. Something has to be wrong. I would think something would show. I'm at risk of blowing my transmission. Any advise would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Y'all!

 

[08grey]

Newbie here. Not really sure where to post this but I'll give it a try. I have a 2009 Yukon SLE. It had a bad battery for several weeks, slow starts, and it had to be jumped several times. Transmission ended up going into limp mode. Was told to replace batteryand check fuses under the hood in the main fuse box. Got the money and Replaced with new battery and checked fuses. Half of the all the fuses under the hood showed no current including TCM fuse and Transmission ignition module fuse along with several others. Replaced all fuses with new fuses, except for the relays. I don't know how to check if those are blown or if that's the problem. Once the new fuses were put it, they still show no current running to them. I'm at a loss with only one vehicle, lack of funds. I called several shops they all say electrical and possible blown fuse box or wire harness. Is there anything I can try on my side before I have to take it in? Auto zone hooked it up to the scanner and its throwing no codes at all. Something has to be wrong. I would think something would show. I'm at risk of blowing my transmission. Any advise would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Y'all!

Check your main fuse by the battery.

 

[ttechnorth]

We just purchased a 2009 Yukon Denali with 78k miles. When we went to the dealer to pick the car up the car died when pulling it up to the front. They put a new battery on it and had to re-calibrate the air conditioner it was blowing heat out of the drivers side and cold out of the passenger side. About a week later we made several stops and turned the car off. When I tried to lock it with the remote I did not hear it lock. Opened the door and it had no power at all. I wiggled the battery around and it started, but was blowing heat out of the drivers side and cool out of the passenger side. It sat for about and hour in our garage then started and air was blowing cold out of both sides. Took it to the dealer we bought it from and they said it was the alternator due to a bulletin out. Got it back and my wife tried to remote start it from inside the house and it would not start. That afternoon she got in it and it was blowing heat from the driver side and cool on the passenger side. It is at the dealer right now, but Im not confident that they can find the issue. Anyone else had these problems? Also every time it loses power the thermometer on the DIC shows like 55 degrees when it is in the high 90's. The air resets to 74 and the Navigation screen flickers. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

The dealer has had it for over a week now. They said it could possibly be the Chasis Electronic Module. There was a recall for some 09-14 GM products. Could that be it?