2009 Tahoe Sell it? Fix it? or Parts it out?

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CLSVT

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Subject Vehicle: 2009 Tahoe 5.3 with 205,000 miles
Background:
3 years ago, I drove my 2009 Tahoe from Vermont t to Boston to pick up my daughter. Just before I reached Boston, my 5.3 engine collapsed a lifter. It produced all the classic sounds and symptoms of a collapsed lifter (loud knocking, traction control light and service engine light coming on, etc.).
Without a viable option, I decided to drive it the 250 miles home. I made it, but it was knocking badly all the way home. I changed the oil when I got home, and it contained metal glitter.
I parked it out back of my house and bought a 2013 Tahoe that I’m driving today.

Question#1)
If I attempt to sell the 2009 Tahoe, what price should I put on it. Someone could probably restore it, but I’m thinking it’s more of a parts vehicle. The transmission was working fine when I parked it. The differentials/transfer case are good. The interior is in OK condition (a little musty/moldy from sitting). It’s does have a fair amount of rust.

Question#2)
I plan on keeping the 2013 forever and most of the parts on the 2009 will fit on the 2013 Tahoe. Would it be wise to keep it and part it out as needed?

Question#3)
Does the glitter in the engine oil mean the engine is truly toast or does it mean it would need a more extensive rebuild? What engine parts would still be re-usable. If it can be rebuilt, I might take it on as a long term hobby project and rebuild it from scratch (and maybe use of the 2013 engine ever gives out).

Thanks for your thoughts, ideas 6BW5hPcLTXig7B0D-aWflw.jpegand opinions.
 

Grady_Wilson

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I think it really depends on your budget.
Do you have the money for a $8k to 10k total rebuild of the engine or do you want to just get it running enough to sell it?
Also, labor rates vary greatly from one part of the country to the other, would be helpful to know your location so others here can point you in the right direction depending on what you decide to do.
 
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CLSVT

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Thanks for the response.
I’m live about 20 miles outside of Burlington VT.
If the engine can be rebuilt, I’d be doing the work myself (with the exception of machine shop work) over time with no real sense of urgency.
 

Grady_Wilson

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Thanks for the response.
I’m live about 20 miles outside of Burlington VT.
If the engine can be rebuilt, I’d be doing the work myself (with the exception of machine shop work) over time with no real sense of urgency.
If you're doing your own work, and only farming out the major machine shop work, I say rebuild it and drive it as a beater when you don't want to drive your newer Tahoe.
Keep the older one for mostly winter driving, being as it is already a little rusty, and keep the newer one away from the road salt.
 

tom3

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I'd list it for whatever price you can come up with, (no clue what it's worth) and see if there's any interest. Have it running even with the engine noise. It still looks decent and these older Chevys are somewhat in demand. Leave it sit in that declining condition and it will wind up having no value and just in the way.
 

petethepug

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I’ve got a good one for you that’ll line your pocketbook.

Install a 380hp 6.0L gasser from a 1/2 T or 3/4T 10-14 truck that has no AFM, runs on reg fuel & e85 in the ‘13 Tahoe.

Put the ‘13 Tahoe 5.3L in the 09 Tahoe, spend 6-$1k on a Pro resto that color sands, buff, polish the black into a mirror and uses Pro, new car smell products on the interior.

Advertise it nationwide through AutoTrader (A/T) private party who’ll screen & broker the sale. Sit back and wait for the buyer who deserves it and gives you the right price. A/T does all the ppwk, collect payment, pays you & all you have to do is hand over keys.

We did that with our 08 YXL Denali and got $12.5k in ‘20 during Covid from a Vegas buyer who gladly drove to get it. It had 140k clicks. If I would’ve been patient and knew the market as picking up I could’ve gotten more.

Win 380hp/ Win phat stack in your wallet.
 

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