2009 Yukon Denali 6.2 L9H Engine Replacement

[petethepug]

Why not do the L94 swap from a 6.0L gas 3/4 or 1T. They run on regular and later motors run on e85 too. Add a cam before you slap it in and you have 400+ hp and a low end tq monster with NO AFM.

L94 to L96 engine swap

Looking for advice, the engine in my 2012 Denali has had a few problems over the years and has recently developed a tap in the bottom. We suspect a cracked piston or wrist pin issue. I’ve also had AFM related issues a few times. I’m thinking about replacing it wit an L96 truck engine. I realize...

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

 

[KraftMatic87]

Why not do the L94 swap from a 6.0L gas 3/4 or 1T. They run on regular and later motors run on e85 too. Add a cam before you slap it in and you have 400+ hp and a low end tq monster with NO AFM.

L94 to L96 engine swap

Looking for advice, the engine in my 2012 Denali has had a few problems over the years and has recently developed a tap in the bottom. We suspect a cracked piston or wrist pin issue. I’ve also had AFM related issues a few times. I’m thinking about replacing it wit an L96 truck engine. I realize...

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

My motor is an L9H and did not have AFM / DOD from the factory. However I have gotten quotes for a 6.0 swap and they are more readily available than the 6.2. I didn’t think about the fact that they run on regular gas that actually would be really nice. If I can’t save this motor then I’ll get a 6.0 they are usually cheaper than a 6.2 and have more availability.

 

[petethepug]

I’m L9H in our Esky. The L94 swap is on my radar for long term solutions because L9H with up to 200K mi are going for $6-$8k.

Save your L9H and sell it documented and diagnosed for what’s going wrong with it because NO One else is doing that. They’re going to refresh or rebuild it anyway on a motor that doesn’t run and removed.

You can also keep it and rebuild it for a back up motor. They’re worth a mint.

 

[KraftMatic87]

Sounds the same as Mike's.

Lawrence Tolman from Powernation TV has a shop in your area now, Colorado Springs.

https://www.youtube.com/@LawrenceTolman

LT knows LS motors forwards and backwards.

I just emailed Tolman Performance. I didn’t see a website with a phone number but I did send LT a quick DM on instagram seeing if his shop can help. There is another shop very close to me called Colorado Performance & Repair in Northglenn who a friend said I could try as well and they have a great reputation for doing engine rebuilds. Thanks for the tip.

 

[KraftMatic87]

I’m L9H in our Esky. The L94 swap is on my radar for long term solutions because L9H with up to 200K mi are going for $6-$8k.

Save your L9H and sell it documented and diagnosed for what’s going wrong with it because NO One else is doing that. They’re going to refresh or rebuild it anyway on a motor that doesn’t run and removed.

You can also keep it and rebuild it for a back up motor. They’re worth a mint.

I guess it all depends on whether or not I’m gonna need a new engine. I haven’t dropped a valve yet but I’ve had quite a few people here and on different forums say that their truck has made the same noises and then dropped one. I’m hoping I can get it towed to either LT or somewhere else next week and get clarity on what’s going on and how much I’m gonna need to shell out to get this back on the road.

 

[Geotrash]

Hey everyone, I bought a 2009 Yukon Denali XL a month ago with 143k miles. It has the L9H 6.2 that did not have AFM / DOD from the factory which is why I was so excited about this truck. Unfortunately for me the pre-purchase inspection I had done for the vehicle conveniently missed many thousands of dollars in repairs. I’m trying to see if I can salvage the situation. After a few days of owning the truck I determined on my own it had an exhaust leak on the drivers side manifold. Replaced that and then I heard a knocking noise near the oil pan. I’m afraid I bought a truck with a motor that’s on its way to self-destructing.

After finding that rod knock I took the truck to several shops that told me it is indeed time for a rebuilt or replacement engine. In addition to that I have a leaking oil pan and trans cooler lines, and a broken CV axle on drivers side that needs replacing. I have attached two videos of the noise at idle. This is after the engine has gotten to idling temp.

Here is a more thorough inspection report I had done AFTER I bought the truck.

https://shop.tekmetric.com/inspection/W1ITrcRe8c1o1Zkx7uuIxQDwqrd76pPA2XVCsstIorw

Trying to see if I can even afford to keep this truck after an engine rebuild. I have kids and this thing was supposed to be our weekend travel vehicle for road trips up to the mountains. Now I’m afraid to even drive it around town to pick up kids and groceries.

I’m looking to see if anyone can help recommend a good shop in the Denver, CO who might be able to do a rebuild / cam swap. So far my best quote came from a shop in Goodland, Kansas that is 3 hrs from my house.

I love this truck and it drives great (for now) but this engine definitely sounds like a ticking time bomb. Looking for any guidance on how I should move forward or if I should just quit while I’m ahead and sell for a loss.

Thanks for the suggestions!

View attachment 402006

100% NOT a rod knock. The frequency is half crankshaft RPM. Valve train for sure.

If it were mine, I’d pull the heads, have them reworked by a competent shop, replace all lifters and get a good look at the cam through the bores. If any damage noted, I’d put a cam motion stage 2 truck cam in it (3-bolt) and call it a day. Actually more like a weekend .

 

[KraftMatic87]

100% NOT a rod knock. The frequency is half crankshaft RPM. Valve train for sure.

If it were mine, I’d pull the heads, have them reworked by a competent shop, replace all lifters and get a good look at the cam through the bores. If any damage noted, I’d put a cam motion stage 2 truck cam in it (3-bolt) and call it a day. Actually more like a weekend .

I’m hoping for the best but preparing for the worst! I’m definitely going to get this thing on a flatbed sometime this week and have it sent to a shop since it definitely needs some kind of major TLC. I’d be pleased if it was just the valve train. Hopefully cam isn’t damaged but it would be nice to throw an upgraded one in there. I stopped driving it a little over a week ago when I started noticing the knocking noise after I replaced a leaking exhaust manifold.

I’ll feel a lot better once I can get a final diagnosis on this and get a date when I can get everything rebuilt and repaired. Staring at it sitting in my driveway and not being able to drive it kills me lol

 

[swathdiver]

If it were mine, I’d pull the heads, have them reworked by a competent shop, replace all lifters and get a good look at the cam through the bores.

My daughter is going to do the same thing with hers, not waiting for the unknown to happen, planned availability do it on her times and keep on truckin'.

 

[KraftMatic87]

My daughter is going to do the same thing with hers, not waiting for the unknown to happen, planned availability do it on her times and keep on truckin'.

Wish I was as mechanically inclined as your daughter! I have two young kids (2 and 4) and I work full time and travel for work every two or three weeks. I just don’t have any spare time, especially over a weekend, to take my engine apart. If I knew someone else who knew what they were doing and could help me I could pull it off, but this is definitely something I’m going to leave to the professionals.

 

[belair62]

Glad to see you bring this issue to this forum from FB. THESE GUYS REALLY KNOW THEIR SHIT