2010 Burb Misfire

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solli5pack

solli5pack

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I have a bad feeling I'm right behind you. Same minor symptoms, no misfire (yet?), but the smell just started and no visible leak.. Same thing, only when cold for a few seconds then clears up.

Good luck! I'll be watching your thread and thanks for the pics/documentation!
Thanks/Np. Keep an eye on your oil pressure. If it's elevated it could mean coolant in your oil. Mine went from about 20 at idle up to 40 and would hit 60 when driving. Also look for sludge under the oil fill cap. Thinking back now I would say this whole process took about 6 months from no symptoms at all to where I am now.
 

j91z28d1

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Solid advice, I believe. Except that I would always put new lifters and new factory trays in if you’re in it that far. But that’s just me. Chances are the originals will outlast the rest of the truck so I really can’t argue with your advice here.

For my part, you’re so close to a full delete at that point and for the price of a few tanks of gas you can have a nice, smooth idle, cam in there like the cam motion stage 2 truck cam that gives you another 50 HP and TQ in there, and you can run all new non-afm lifters and trays, a flat valley pan with the tower seals, and a bow-tie chain tensioner. Though the latter would require dropping the oil pan to get the old tensioner out.

I went this route on my 2012 and love it, but I also do a lot of towing with it so that was the main reason.


yeah I would only reuse the lifter because new ones are so expensive and if I did buy new afm lifters I'd want to turn it all back on.
 

j91z28d1

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Thanks for the replies and advice guys. It's much appreciated. I built this kit from Scoggin Dickey and it look like it has just about everything I need. I don't see pushrods though. Are they supposed to be replaced? Also apparently instead of replacing the Vlom they plug the ports. Unless I'm missing something it's only a few hundred more than if I piece together everything I already need to do the head gasket job with new trays included and hope that existing lifters & cam look good after inspection. I'm wondering since I'd be keeping the AFM Vlom and I have the Range disabler does the computer still need to be re flashed. Starting to lean towards the delete..lol



View attachment 402629


I'm pretty sure you need push rods. I've not done it, but the afm lifters look longer to me? maybe at least new ones for the lifters being replaced?
 

Geotrash

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I'm pretty sure you need push rods. I've not done it, but the afm lifters look longer to me? maybe at least new ones for the lifters being replaced?
Nope, pushrods are the same length believe it or not. The only reason you'd need different length pushrod is if the cam you choose has a different base circle measurement than a stock cam. For the cam motion cam I purchased, I was able to use the standard length pushrods and verified it upon reassembly with the proper measuring tools.
 

j91z28d1

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Nope, pushrods are the same length believe it or not. The only reason you'd need different length pushrod is if the cam you choose has a different base circle measurement than a stock cam. For the cam motion cam I purchased, I was able to use the standard length pushrods and verified it upon reassembly with the proper measuring tools.


thats cool and kinda crazy.

hmmm interesting
 
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solli5pack

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I've never messed with a cam before. Is it as easy to swap out as this article makes it out to be? The rough idle is the single most hated thing I have about this truck. Do you think the stock GM non AFM cam will help that?


Also on a side note. I dropped of the heads and the guy at the machine shop pointed out around half of cyl 4 was clean compared to the rest of the head. That could be an indication of a failed head gasket.
 

Geotrash

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I've never messed with a cam before. Is it as easy to swap out as this article makes it out to be? The rough idle is the single most hated thing I have about this truck. Do you think the stock GM non AFM cam will help that?


Also on a side note. I dropped of the heads and the guy at the machine shop pointed out around half of cyl 4 was clean compared to the rest of the head. That could be an indication of a failed head gasket.
Here is my journey. This linked final post has my notes and recommendations in it.

 

mikez71

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I've never messed with a cam before. Is it as easy to swap out as this article makes it out to be? The rough idle is the single most hated thing I have about this truck. Do you think the stock GM non AFM cam will help that?
I have what I consider a smooth idle.. Maybe just the misfire making it rough for you?
 
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solli5pack

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Here is my journey. This linked final post has my notes and recommendations in it.

That's a hell of a build bro...Pretty sweet! Looks like you replaced a lot of the wearable parts just so you know it's solid and never have to worry about it again. I usually share the same attitude with everything I do but right now just trying to get my daily driver back on the road. I don't even want to mess with the oil pump. Lot's of great & helpful info!
 

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