2010 Tahoe LT w/ 67k Buy or No?

[Fubar0715]

Get a Carmax or Carvana quote to buy it from you....Honda and Toyota sedans should get snapped up quickly and probably for about the same money as the dealer is going to give you for a trade.

 

[johnny_88]

Welcome to the Forum from NH.

Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.

I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.

You are already receiving sage advice from the knowledgeable folks on this Forum.

Thanks! Glad to be apart of it! I definitely will be participating on the forum and help the best I can! I appreciate everyone’s advice and tips they have given.

 

[johnny_88]

Get a Carmax or Carvana quote to buy it from you....Honda and Toyota sedans should get snapped up quickly and probably for about the same money as the dealer is going to give you for a trade.

Never even thought about that! Thanks for the advice, I’ll look into it for sure!

 

[swathdiver]

I found a 2010 Tahoe LT with the luxury package for sale and the dealer is currently holding it for me. It has 67k. The interior is in fantastic shape and the exterior is too but the underside does have a fair amount of rust. I do plan on getting it undercoated and rust proofed. I’m in northeast Ohio so this isn’t a surprise. It was owned by two people and came from New York. The dealer is putting new brakes/rotors on the front and rear as well as new tires. I noticed the trans line from the cooler had a leak and they are fixing that too. I do plan on doing the afm delete. The engine is clean and runs smooth, no noises. I’ll be trading my 15 Accord w/ 86k in for it. Just curious on everyone’s thoughts, this will be my first Tahoe.

Go for it. There's always going to be some necessary repairs for a twelve year old car so consider that. Get the Tech-2 so you can quickly and properly diagnose things even if you have someone else do the work.

 

[johnny_88]

Go for it. There's always going to be some necessary repairs for a twelve year old car so consider that. Get the Tech-2 so you can quickly and properly diagnose things even if you have someone else do the work.

Think I will. I browsed autotrader for ones that haven’t seen winter weather but only a couple caught my eye. The hassle/cost of shipping, potentially having to get a rental car, the wait time and not being able to physically see it are factors I’d rather not deal with. I’m going into this expecting there will be things that will come up at some point. Currently waiting on the service department to get in touch with me, go over their assessment, and what repairs they will be doing. The ones I mentioned were obvious ones anyone could notice. I also want them to put it on the lift after the repairs are done and I test drive it so I can thoroughly inspect it before I make my final decision.

 

[iamdub]

I’m doing the afm bypass that plugs in.

Just in case you didn't know about it: https://www.lt1swap.com/afm_delete.htm

This will save you about $160 and you won't have to manage a dongle in the OBD port. If you have emissions inspections in your area, you won't have to unplug it (thus re-activating the system that's been dormant for a year) then complete drive cycles prior to getting inspected.

Cons are (1) You have to ship your PCM so your Tahoe will be down for a few days and (2) It may violate a warranty.

 

[Bill 1960]

I’m curious what drives you to trade a newer Honda with similar mileage for this?

Regarding the rust, use something that penetrates and seeps in like oil or wax products. WoolWax or Fluid Film are just a couple of products you can DIY, and there are commercial applicators using those or similar products. Those will stop corrosion in it’s tracks.

It’s way too late to use materials that dry or get hard. Those will just hide corrosion and beneath the shiny surface the cancer will grow unchecked.

Welcome to the forum, it’s a good bunch here in my experience.

 

[johnny_88]

Just in case you didn't know about it: https://www.lt1swap.com/afm_delete.htm

This will save you about $160 and you won't have to manage a dongle in the OBD port. If you have emissions inspections in your area, you won't have to unplug it (thus re-activating the system that's been dormant for a year) then complete drive cycles prior to getting inspected.

Cons are (1) You have to ship your PCM so your Tahoe will be down for a few days and (2) It may violate a warranty.

Thanks! I had no idea about having to complete drive cycles if I have to unplug it. I do have emissions testing where I’m located so I think I’ll bite the bullet and go this route.

 

[johnny_88]

I’m curious what drives you to trade a newer Honda with similar mileage for this?

Regarding the rust, use something that penetrates and seeps in like oil or wax products. WoolWax or Fluid Film are just a couple of products you can DIY, and there are commercial applicators using those or similar products. Those will stop corrosion in it’s tracks.

It’s way too late to use materials that dry or get hard. Those will just hide corrosion and beneath the shiny surface the cancer will grow unchecked.

Welcome to the forum, it’s a good bunch here in my experience.

I’m curious what drives you to trade a newer Honda with similar mileage for this?

Regarding the rust, use something that penetrates and seeps in like oil or wax products. WoolWax or Fluid Film are just a couple of products you can DIY, and there are commercial applicators using those or similar products. Those will stop corrosion in it’s tracks.

It’s way too late to use materials that dry or get hard. Those will just hide corrosion and beneath the shiny surface the cancer will grow unchecked.

Welcome to the forum, it’s a good bunch here in my experience.

A suv would suit my needs better. I’m a musician outside of my 9-5 and hauling gear in a little sedan can be a challenge. It’s also the worst car I’ve ever driven in winter weather. I’m tired of being paranoid and feeling unsafe on the roads even if there is only a little bit of snow. I know it seems a little backwards to trade it in for a vehicle that’s 3 years older but since I’m able to get a fair amount for it I want to part ways. The only reason I purchased it was because I had a Cadillac CTS that was on its way out. I had to roll over $5k into the loan for the Honda and needed a car that was reliable to last at least through the duration of the loan. Now I can have a cheaper payment, a vehicle I’ll feel safe in and be able to haul my gear or anything else without an issue.

 

[justchecking]

Or get a Diablo Tuner and turn AFM off (or on) yourself. I found no change between AFM and no AFM in my 46 mile round trip commute. I turned AFM off for good just because for me there was no benefit and turning if off VERY SLIGHTLY reduced risk. I bought mine in the rust belt and other than surface rust on the frame in spots where the wax dried and fell off see no other problems. I did see one with rust around the wheel wells and at the bottom of the rear hatch so check that out if that is a deal breaker. Could probably be fixed though.
Welcome to the forum!