swathdiver
Full Access Member
Yes, they are the same between the two axles used on our GMT900 SUVs and Pickups. I have both.
2011 Tahoe/Real axle bearings Timken versus stock
- Thread starter draper11
- Start date
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I am not sure what bearings this thread started out about, almost looks like front bearings. but now for the rear.
my experience is I noticed a rear seal leaking at 140k ish. I've had good luck on other cars and trucks with the timken fixer bearings that move the bearing to a fresh part of the axle and has a built in seal. so I pulled the old bearings even thou they looked good and installed the new ones.
ended up being a complete and total failure, with the g80 locker rear diff,(open diff they will probably work) you gotta push the axle inward so much to get the c clip back in, it damaged the seal on the new bearings and they leaked badly on both sides.
ended up stopping by a gm parts department and buying 2 new oem seals, put the original bearings back in, installed the new seals. hasn't had a problem since.
my 2 cents is if you pull the alxes out to change the seals, if the part of the axle that rides on the bearings is smooth and not pitted at all. Just replace the seals and put it back together. if it's pitted, you'll need to buy new axles and new(oem) seals/bearings.
if you do need to pull the bearings, there's a cheap puller kit on Amazon that works without messing up the tone ring that's about a 1/4in behind the bearing. better not to remove that if you don't have to add the extra hassle. install depth on it is pretty important.
mine is the small 8.5in diff. if you have the bigger 14 bolt, your experience might be different.
petethepug
Michael
Lots of good info on those front bearings and the rebuild process.
swathdiver
Full Access Member
Got a part number for the Amazon kit?
Axle tubes are the same between the 8.6" and 9.5".
is the one I used. got the part number from another gm board buried in a axle bearing thread. you'll need a slid hammer for this to screw into.
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swathdiver
Full Access Member
That's the one I used that barely fit and wrecked the tone ring. Maybe it was me.
Oh boy, where are you getting this information? Google?
Ok, this ought to settle it. The axle under the work bench is my spare 9.5" out of a 2011 Escalade. The axle on my driveway is the 8.6" from my Yukon XL.
These are Saginaw axles used on the GMT900 wagons and pickups. My pickups have the same 9.5" axles, just different brackets of course as they have a leaf spring rear suspension.
huh. slid right behind the bearing for mine. I used it twice, once for the oem bearings and once to pull failed timkins back out. no tone ring issue.
I did you the one on the small size that only grabs the rollers, not the outer race.
maybe I just got lucky my tone ring is installed slightly further back?
I did you the one on the small size that only grabs the rollers, not the outer race.
maybe I just got lucky my tone ring is installed slightly further back?
swathdiver
Full Access Member
The tone rings only go so far back, the tube is stepped to stop them. Maybe the tone rings were just coming apart when we put the tool in there. The factory one fit better and was slimmer but the slide hammer threads didn't match. Either way, you've shown us that it does work and it's certainly less expensive than the factory tools!
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