2021 Tahoe Braking performance?

[Polo08816]

I have Yukon 22 with less than 1000 mile, went downhill a mountain that is 10 miles long. I found it very difficult to stop or get the Yukon to slow below 20 mph. I had to use low gear to help and I got a waring message on the cluster saying that brakes are over heating, comparing it to Nissan armada 2017, the Armada was light years better in the same situation. I was really scared I will not make it safely. good thing I was not towing a trailer.
I will not trust it again until I figure out what's wrong. View attachment 370534

lol. where is this?

 

[Polo08816]

Admittedly, 911's have evolved dramatically over the years, and Porsche has continued to refine their typical Macpherson strut front suspension to now double wishbone on the latest GT3. (At what price? $165k+ or something?) The 911 weight distribution hasn't really changed much over the generations given the rear engine/rear drive configuration, but the diabolical lift throttle oversteer of the earlier 911's has been pretty much engineered out. (especially with all of the stability control options) I have driven various cars on a number of road courses. (e.g. Mid Ohio, Watkins Glen, Nelson.) Specifically Corvette, Camaro, Toyota MR 2, a number of 911, Caymen and Panamera cars. The Porsche I found that was the most balanced and fun to drive quickly, was the Caymen. Obviously the mid-engine configuration (along with my old MR 2) gave them a very low polar moment and incredible handling. You can definitely feel the weight of the big 6 rear engine hanging out the back going into a corner, even on a new 911 variant. I have been behind a number of older 911's where the driver went into a corner too hot and lifted...not a pretty sight when they swap ends. Fortunately I only ever saw one roll over.

In any case, we have totally lost sight of the OP's original braking question on his new Tahoe. (non towing situation) I stand by my original statement, that he would notice a huge benefit in braking performance from a more robust front braking system, without touching the rears. 6 Pot stationary calipers, and if his wheels allow, another inch or so larger diameter rotor. All the other stuff is nice to talk about, but will offer him little benefit in his application.

I suppose it's better than nothing.

My personal preference is that I would not pay the $3k from the red GM Performance kit.

You should be able to retrofit a similar system used on the police version for significantly less $.

 

[WalleyeMikeIII]

I suppose it's better than nothing.

My personal preference is that I would not pay the $3k from the red GM Performance kit.

You should be able to retrofit a similar system used on the police version for significantly less $.

Looks like the PPV is about half the money from the Brembo...

I surfed the GM Parts site,
Looks like the Upgraded parts are as follows:
Front Pat Set 277
Rear Pad Set $310
Front Rotors: $125
Rear Rotors: $55
Front Calipers (no bracket): $407
Rear Calipers: $55

My math:
$277 + $310 + 2($125) + 2($55) + 2($407) + 2(55) = $1871

and not sure you need to do the rears, so fronts only is: $277 + 2($125) + 2($407) = $1341, plus labor, which is probably possible for a DIY person, not sure if any ABS reprogram is needed, etc.

Now you got me thinking!!!

 

[Hrocks]

Taking everything at face value, if you can get 6 pot fronts, bigger rotors, at those GM retail numbers, you can probably get the PPV parts via one of the online GM discount dealers for much less. And like a buddy of mine once said, "it's like a sore d*ck, you can't beat it!"

 

[BrokerThis]

Taking everything at face value, if you can get 6 pot fronts, bigger rotors, at those GM retail numbers, you can probably get the PPV parts via one of the online GM discount dealers for much less. And like a buddy of mine once said, "it's like a sore d*ck, you can't beat it!"

your buddy spends alot of time/money working on cars by himself then eh?

 

[Polo08816]

Looks like the PPV is about half the money from the Brembo...

I surfed the GM Parts site,
Looks like the Upgraded parts are as follows:
Front Pat Set 277
Rear Pad Set $310
Front Rotors: $125
Rear Rotors: $55
Front Calipers (no bracket): $407
Rear Calipers: $55

My math:
$277 + $310 + 2($125) + 2($55) + 2($407) + 2(55) = $1871

and not sure you need to do the rears, so fronts only is: $277 + 2($125) + 2($407) = $1341, plus labor, which is probably possible for a DIY person, not sure if any ABS reprogram is needed, etc.

Now you got me thinking!!!

I believe the rear rotors and calipers are the same. Perhaps the rear pad material is different.

I didn't think it was that expensive the last time I checked but maybe prices have changed.

 

[WalleyeMikeIII]

Taking everything at face value, if you can get 6 pot fronts, bigger rotors, at those GM retail numbers, you can probably get the PPV parts via one of the online GM discount dealers for much less. And like a buddy of mine once said, "it's like a sore d*ck, you can't beat it!"

Those were the discounted numbers on gmpartsdirect web site. Retail was more

 

[WalleyeMikeIII]

I believe the rear rotors and calipers are the same. Perhaps the rear pad material is different.

I didn't think it was that expensive the last time I checked but maybe prices have changed.

It seemed like the PPV rear rotor and pad set were different P/N than the standard. I think caliper was same

 

[Hrocks]

$1300 all in is a great price for an OE plug n play set up. He will notice a huge difference in braking performance, especially under heavy loads. Has anyone checked the master cylinder part number for the PPV 6 pot set up to see if it's the same as the stock Tahoe unit? Even if it's not, I wouldn't think there should be any abs concerns.

 

[lawbet]

lol. where is this?

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