8 lug and HD axles on a 1500

[randeez]

With yours being lowered it would need shorter cv axles than mine would with 5 inch lift?

Hoping I can use 1500 cv's and no spacers to help cv angles. Or I was also considering getting a manual locking hub kit and ordering it for 2011+ 2500 and asking for the pre 2010 lug pattern 8*165 for the hubs. Those come with special cv's and hub assemblies. But that will only work if I can use stock length 23 inch 2011+ 2500 cv's.

How much lower is the cv Axle centerline on the 9.25 diff? My truck has a 1 inch diff drop that I'm assuming will have to be removed to swap diffs.

Is the diff centered in the frame? You had different size cv spacers

2500 control arms won't fit the 1500 frame both upper and lower are wider apart where they mount to frame and 2500 lower control arms are designed for torsion bars.

A Junkyard 15 miles from me has a h2 axle for $350 and there's a few others not far under $500. there is a couple escalade axles nearby but they are $800-1200 so round here h2 axles are cheaper. Plus h2 axles use 2500 front brake calipers that's why I'm leaning more towards doing them.

1) the further your hub height it from the diff center line the longer axles will help, you are correct tho - the larger spacer you use the less articulation you get out of the CV.

2) the outers on 2010+ 2500s are 36 spline i believe, thats why you cant just use them with the 1500 or older 2500 hubs (33spline) you need the 8 bolt inner and 33 spline outer.

3) i think about 2" lower center, like i said being lowered my hubs are above the center line and my CVs are angled up at ride height.

4) its sort of centered lol, i ordered two different sizes because i wasnt sure which i would need/which would work best (smallest spacer that would keep the joint in the cup) i installed the axles in the hubs, fully compressed them, and had a little shy of 2" to the diff to bolt to. they didnt have the size i wanted to i ordered one over and one under. my trucks a little rough on axles so currently i have the larger spacer on one side and doubled up two smaller ones on the other side. i think 1.25 on each side. but that youre just going to need to find what works best.

5) youre on your own for arms lol

6) whatever works

to also clarify i dont think i ever had a front driveshaft made, i had my stock DS 6l80/awd/8.25...went to 9.25 and i think i just ebayed a front DS from an equipped 6l90/4x4/9.25 that was a little shorter. then went to 4l80/awd/9.25 which the 4l80 is longer so i went back to my stock driveshaft. poking around rock auto you should be able to find a longer/shorter shaft as needed.

 

[87carl]

1) the further your hub height it from the diff center line the longer axles will help, you are correct tho - the larger spacer you use the less articulation you get out of the CV.

2) the outers on 2010+ 2500s are 36 spline i believe, thats why you cant just use them with the 1500 or older 2500 hubs (33spline) you need the 8 bolt inner and 33 spline outer.

3) i think about 2" lower center, like i said being lowered my hubs are above the center line and my CVs are angled up at ride height.

4) its sort of centered lol, i ordered two different sizes because i wasnt sure which i would need/which would work best (smallest spacer that would keep the joint in the cup) i installed the axles in the hubs, fully compressed them, and had a little shy of 2" to the diff to bolt to. they didnt have the size i wanted to i ordered one over and one under. my trucks a little rough on axles so currently i have the larger spacer on one side and doubled up two smaller ones on the other side. i think 1.25 on each side. but that youre just going to need to find what works best.

5) youre on your own for arms lol

6) whatever works

to also clarify i dont think i ever had a front driveshaft made, i had my stock DS 6l80/awd/8.25...went to 9.25 and i think i just ebayed a front DS from an equipped 6l90/4x4/9.25 that was a little shorter. then went to 4l80/awd/9.25 which the 4l80 is longer so i went back to my stock driveshaft. poking around rock auto you should be able to find a longer/shorter shaft as needed.

Yes the 2011+ are 36 spline and that's when gm switched the lug pattern on the 2500/3500 to 8x180mm. Which is why even if I switch to 2500 knuckles I can't use 2011+ hub bearings and will still have to figure out modified cv axles.

With how much you are lowered how flat where your cv angles with the 8.25

Control arms stock 1500 lower will work. upper will need modified to accept 2500 upper ball joint.

Does the 9.25 drive shaft use same u joint as the 8.25?

 

[randeez]

with the 8.25 it was pretty much level.

lots of companies make aftermarket uppers shouldnt be hard to find one that uses bolt on ball joints that will take either - if youve read my other threads cognito was about the only company that was happy to help whether they were going to make a sale or not. others just told me "we dont show anything in the catalog for that" or wouldnt sell me parts and pieces to even try to see if they would work on my own

same joint was used for mine 8.25 and 9.25

 

[87carl]

Gm uses the same tripod joint pp

with the 8.25 it was pretty much level.

lots of companies make aftermarket uppers shouldnt be hard to find one that uses bolt on ball joints that will take either - if youve read my other threads cognito was about the only company that was happy to help whether they were going to make a sale or not. others just told me "we dont show anything in the catalog for that" or wouldnt sell me parts and pieces to even try to see if they would work on my own

same joint was used for mine 8.25 and 9.25

I emailed MEVOTECH about there upper control arms because that's what I have on mine waiting for a response. The MEVOTECH uppers have a larger ball joint than stock and I read somewhere previously that they are same size as 2500 upper ball joints but can't confirm that till they respond. If the MEVOTECH arms won't work I will try cognito or just have a machine shop modify the MEVOTECH arms

I just looked up tripod joints that is the joint on the cv Axle that goes into the plunge cups. Gm uses tripod joint part number 26062617 for 1500 2500 and 3500 since late 90s till current. So that confirms the 8 bolt flange plunge cup will fit on 1500 cv axles.

 

[swathdiver]

A Junkyard 15 miles from me has a h2 axle for $350 and there's a few others not far under $500. there is a couple escalade axles nearby but they are $800-1200 so round here h2 axles are cheaper. Plus h2 axles use 2500 front brake calipers that's why I'm leaning more towards doing them.

Have you tried LKQ Online? I recently bought my 9.5" from them for just over $300 out the door.

They are real proud of the 8.6" 3.08 geared axles but the 9.5s go for a lot less.

 

[swathdiver]

Gm uses the same tripod joint pp

I emailed MEVOTECH about there upper control arms because that's what I have on mine waiting for a response. The MEVOTECH uppers have a larger ball joint than stock and I read somewhere previously that they are same size as 2500 upper ball joints but can't confirm that till they respond. If the MEVOTECH arms won't work I will try cognito or just have a machine shop modify the MEVOTECH arms

I just looked up tripod joints that is the joint on the cv Axle that goes into the plunge cups. Gm uses tripod joint part number 26062617 for 1500 2500 and 3500 since late 90s till current. So that confirms the 8 bolt flange plunge cup will fit on 1500 cv axles.

I just remembered something. Do you recall that GM made a "heavy half ton" in the 2000s in the GMT800s? They were half ton trucks with 8-lug wheels.

Also, the new ZR2 has an electric front locker. Do we know what size it is yet? I reckon that someone will soon get their hands on one and make it fit an older generation truck.

 

[87carl]

I just remembered something. Do you recall that GM made a "heavy half ton" in the 2000s in the GMT800s? They were half ton trucks with 8-lug wheels.

Also, the new ZR2 has an electric front locker. Do we know what size it is yet? I reckon that someone will soon get their hands on one and make it fit an older generation truck.

I haven't looked up lkq yet. I will check them.

The heavy half tons used all 2500 suspension components and 2500 frame.

I didn't know about the new zr2 having a E locker is that in 1500 or 2500?

 

[swathdiver]

I haven't looked up lkq yet. I will check them.

The heavy half tons used all 2500 suspension components and 2500 frame.

I didn't know about the new zr2 having a E locker is that in 1500 or 2500?

If the heavy halfs used both the suspension and frame from the 2500 what made them half tons then?

1500s! It has piqued my interest as I would not be opposed to an e-locker up front since it would be used sparingly and cannot be used regularly on road. Just waiting for more information to be released about them. I don't get the trade journals anymore.

 

[BG1988]

Warning this will be long I tend to ramble and want this as detailed and accurate as possible. I'm trying to figure out what all parts are needed to swap Heavy-duty axles into my 07 1500 burb and convert to 8 lug but keep the 1500 suspension. 2500s have torsion bars front and leaf springs rear. 1500 have struts front and 5 link coil in rear. The 1500 suspension rides alot softer and has more articulation which is why I chose to buy a 1500. But I do alot of towing and offroading so I want the added strength of 2500 axles. most threads on internet discussing this have responses that are can't be done, waste of money, to difficult, just use conversion wheel spacers, buy a 2500, do a solid axle swap etc. So researching is difficult sifting through all the dead end threads trying to find the few with actual information. Here's what I found so far. other than cutting a tab on the front diff milling out upper control arms for 2500 upper ball joint and shortening drive shafts and modify rear shock mounts rest of this stuff is mostly direct bolt on and not as difficult as people think it will be.

Rear axle Hummer h2 use the same rear suspension as tahoe and 1500 burb and avalanche. so a full float 9.5 ring gear 14 bolt axle from a h2 is almost a direct bolt in swap. According to people that have swapped them the lower control arm bolt is supposedly slightly larger than on burbs and hoes and avalanches. but the control arms and bolt are same part number. Control arm can be drilled out for larger bolt if it is bigger. Rear shocks are also slightly offset of where the burbs, avalanche and hoes are. There is a couple of ways to fix that. Either stretch bolt holes slightly so shock can sit at slight angle or move shock mount in to correct spot either way works. Will Need to shorten drive shaft about 1.5 inches and either use conversion u joint or convert drive shaft to use h2 u joint while shortening it. everything else on that axle is direct swap. Another benefit of the h2 axle is they use same calipers as fronts so there's big 6 piston calipers that are direct bolt on.

Front diff also is easy 2011+ 2500/3500 9.25 diff uses mounts similar to the GMT900 1500 front differential. the mounts are slightly farther apart side to side but there is enough play in the bushings to bolt that diff to the 1500 diff mounts. You will need to cut off a bolt ear near the pinion that hits 1500 frames crossmember mount. Driveshaft also needs to be shortened. Idk how much yet. cv axles for that diff use a 8 bolt flange and are 36 spline. Need to use a pre 2010 2500/3500 33 spline cv axle and change the inboard flange cup off the cv to the 8 bolt one from a 2011+ and use 8 bolt cv spacers from incognito. If staying 6 lug can use stock hub bearings with these modified cv axles. Also stock gmt900 1500 cv axles are same length as 2011+ 2500 cv axles so they should be able to used without spacers if the 8 bolt cups fit on them. I think they cups will fit but can't confirm yet. Hopefully they do so can eliminate cv spacers and have better cv angles.

The h2 axle is 8 lug so I want 8 lug in front. 2500 wheel bearings are 4 bolt 1500 are 3 bolt. One option is you can use late 90s dodge 2500 wheel bearings they are 3 bolt 8 lug and will bolt on our stock 1500 gm knuckles but they have no abs. And no clue what rotors and caliper spacers would be needed So don't want to do that method.

I do have a link to a thread on pirate most is nonsense but one post a guy posting claims to have bolted 2500 knuckles on a 04 gmt800 1500 truck. The lower ball joint bolted on. He used 2500 outer tie rod with 1500 inner tie rod. the upper control arm had to be milled out to use the 2500 upper ball joint and he needed cv spacers because 1500 upper control arms are slightly longer then 2500 about 1/2 inch and his torsion bars are cranked. That also caused alignment to be slightly off close but not able to bring it in exact. There are adjustable upper control arms that can fix that. Or lifted trucks like mine sometimes need uppers to be slightly longer mine are currently almost to short had to use extended alignment cams and pushed almost all the way out to get it aligned with my current suspension setup huge pain in the butt.

What he did on that 04 should be same as swapping ours. 2500 gmt800 and pre 2010 gmt900 front suspensions are the same. 1500s changed to struts and rack and pinion steering when switching to gmt900. so Idk what all got changed between the GMT900 and gmt800 1500s. But I do know that they both use same knuckles. so ball joints should be the same size. Tie rods definetly changed switching to gmt900 because of using rack and pinion. But 08 and up hybrid gas/electric 1500 trucks use same steering rack as ours (or a 3 turn lock to lock rack I want). there inner tie rods will bolt on our steering rack and those inner tie rods have same shaft size and thread pitch as 15+ 2500 outer tie rods so that's the solution to tie rods. And our lower ball joints are the same as a 2500 so no worries there.

Also 2011 switched to 8x180 lug pattern so after switching knuckles have to use the pre 2010 33 spline hub bearings to have same lug pattern as h2 rear axle. And use a modified cv shaft that has the 8 bolt cup and 33 spline.

What I am still trying to to figure out is if anyone on here knows the upper ball joint specifications for the 1500 and 2500 gmt900s? Or has access to a ball joint specification book to get the measurements. all ball joint books online I have found don't go that new. I am trying to see if the part of the upper ball joint that goes in the control arms is bigger on gmt900 1500s so I can figure out if 2500 upper ball joints can be pressed in or if I will have to mill out the upper control arms like on the gmt800. And how big the upper control arm needs to be milled out to if I have to do that.

My burb has MEVOTECH tough terrain control arms the upper ball joint where it goes through the control arm is alot bigger than the stock upper ball joints so also need to figure those specific control arms ball joint size. I emailed MEVOTECH and am waiting for them to respond.

Also can someone with stock 1500 knuckles measure how tall they are. 2500s are 13 inch tall but can't find that measurement for 1500s. my burb has rc lift knuckles so I can't measure it. Also if someone can get wheel mating surface to wheel mating surface width and distance between ball joints from side to side I could use those measurements on 1500 and 2500. Thank you

i saw one on craigslist with a 3500 conversion with a dully rear end

https://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/cto/d/van-nuys-1999-suburban-ton-3500-dually/7399032457.html

 

[87carl]

If the heavy halfs used both the suspension and frame from the 2500 what made them half tons then?

1500s! It has piqued my interest as I would not be opposed to an e-locker up front since it would be used sparingly and cannot be used regularly on road. Just waiting for more information to be released about them. I don't get the trade journals anymore.

That's what I always wondered there exactly the same as a 2500 but labeled 1500 makes no sense to me.

It will probably be a few months till there's more info on that differential definitely something to watch for