8 lug and HD axles on a 1500

[87carl]

You can buy upgraded Moser/Strange/Currie axles that are far superior that anything you will find stock. They are stronger and built to take a ton of power. Look them up from any of those manufacturers. This is an example but not specific to your use: https://www.jegs.com/i/Moser/718/A1...nrDL0K-ooYKCHOClfXzNLvRdOjigmcoIaAvLqEALw_wcB

A C-clip eliminator basically locks the axle shafts into the rear end housing at the brake drums, thus eliminating anything that might brake and cause a catastrophe, they are used a lot in drag racing applications.

The Dmax front axles are night and day bigger/stronger than stock. This is another link, again not specific to your year but a great example: https://dmaxstore.com/products/?route=product/product&path=129_130&product_id=4741

I used all Dmax HD front end parts on my H2 and it was bullet proof.

I built a custom LS that was approx. 470 hp to the tires with a stall converter and could spin all 4 tires with no issues and never had a problem.

Tim

The rcv axles are nice but alot of money. The rest of that I'll look into

 

[bigdog9191999]

guess i am gonna be that guy, although i get the reasons i have questions. how much weight are we talking here? simply becase the answers your getting other places are typically true. if your hauling enough weight that you need the durability of 2500 axles, then why wouldnt the control arms and other suspension parts need to be stronger, then the frame, brakes, trans. engine power ect. not that i am against doing things different but unless the 1500 of choice is just something that cant go it may be far easier and cheaper to just upgrade.


i for one have a 2500 8.1 4.10 burb that i have about $2,000 into including buying the truck. and chassis wise suspension brakes ect is no comparison to pulling with a 1500 and i have pulled plenty with a 1500. i have only put about 5k on it in the last two years i have had it but i know i can pull almost anything i want easily and safely and buy all off the self parts easily to repair when needed.

 

[87carl]

guess i am gonna be that guy, although i get the reasons i have questions. how much weight are we talking here? simply becase the answers your getting other places are typically true. if your hauling enough weight that you need the durability of 2500 axles, then why wouldnt the control arms and other suspension parts need to be stronger, then the frame, brakes, trans. engine power ect. not that i am against doing things different but unless the 1500 of choice is just something that cant go it may be far easier and cheaper to just upgrade.


i for one have a 2500 8.1 4.10 burb that i have about $2,000 into including buying the truck. and chassis wise suspension brakes ect is no comparison to pulling with a 1500 and i have pulled plenty with a 1500. i have only put about 5k on it in the last two years i have had it but i know i can pull almost anything i want easily and safely and buy all off the self parts easily to repair when needed.

What do you mean by how much weight? How much I tow with the burb? That varies but car trailers with cars or scrap construction materials or campers uh average 3000-6000 normally. heaviest load I have had her pull was almost 8500. She tows anything I need her to pull without much issues only thing that struggles with heavy loads is brakes that's one thing I plan to upgrade but waiting till i do axles to do brakes. Stock axles might survive with what I do with it but when I start making more power combined with the bigger tires having the extra strength and piece of mind knowing axles and everything else is stronger than I need is nice. Like I said brakes will also get upgraded to big calipers front and rear possibly do hydro boost. Engine trans and transfer case are getting upgraded. And rest of suspension either will be upgraded or already is. I already have spohn tubular control arms in rear. Front has mevotech upper and lower control arms that are thicker/stronger than stock and have larger ball joints than stock. Welded steel plates over control arm mounts to reinforce them stock they are thin and flex alot. I want it to use all off the shelve parts easy to find and replace as needed in future that's biggest problem with figuring out how to do this stuff to it. I have a truck for if I have any really heavy towing to do and know difference between using a heavy duty truck and a 1500 and I know what it's like daily driving heavy duty trucks the comfort of the burbs half ton suspension is nice and when we go camping or anything where it goes offroad she can get through way more than my truck can. That comfort and capability combined with the strength of the truck is what I want. Probably more work than it's worth and it's definitely cheaper and easier to buy something else. I like projects and modifying vehicles so I enjoy doing things like this and I have the engine figured out but everything else I'm still deciding what I want to do. Not everything will be done at once but want to do engine trans and transfer case all at once that's probably next. Axles and more suspension and brake work I'm still trying to plan out how or what to do

 

[bigdog9191999]

honestly being that your not going over the stock rated capacity i would say put good tires ( e rated) and the bolt on easy brake upgrades and just be ready to service it regularly knowing your using them to capacity. not that there wouldn't be benefit to do it, but honestly you would be easier to put lighter duty suspension on a heavier truck if your looking for the heavier durability and strength and only looking for a better ride.

or use the truck for your working times and the lighter truck for your family trips. i mean the idea sounds awesome, just doesn't seem economical for the goal.

if your going to lift and put bigger tires there is always sas swap with tons, that could get you the strength as well as ride, and still have shelf parts.

 

[Alex_M]

How much shorter should the shaft be? My stock front driveshaft is 36.25 inches long the closest shafts I can find that are shorter are

34.875 inches Cardone 651016 for yukons and escalades with awd 2010-2014 $198.79

35.65 inches Dorman 938197 for 5 speed manual 2500hd $362.99

Those are rock auto prices haven't looked for cheaper yet but it might be cheaper to have a drive shaft shop shorten a stock one or find a used one and put in new u joints

I have little input here other than it is definitely cheaper to have your driveshaft shortened. Last one I had done was $60 or $65 out the door, and he also installed new universals (I supplied).

Super interesting read!

Unless you're just real attached to your ABS, I think the Dodge hubs are a nice easy option. Brakes shouldn't be bad to figure out.

As far as figuring out what's different and what's the same, just go to a friendly parts store and ask to see parts. Take calipers and a notepad to take measurements. I've had real good luck with this method, especially at O'Reillys.

 

[87carl]

I have little input here other than it is definitely cheaper to have your driveshaft shortened. Last one I had done was $60 or $65 out the door, and he also installed new universals (I supplied).

Super interesting read!

Unless you're just real attached to your ABS, I think the Dodge hubs are a nice easy option. Brakes shouldn't be bad to figure out.

As far as figuring out what's different and what's the same, just go to a friendly parts store and ask to see parts. Take calipers and a notepad to take measurements. I've had real good luck with this method, especially at O'Reillys.

Shortening shaft is definitely cheaper than new last one I did locally here was 78 something balanced and new u joints they supplied.

Dodge hubs would be the easy option tahoverland did a SAS on a gmt800 tahoe using the Dodge 2500 axle with gm 6 lug hubs/rotor and dodge caliper only had to use couple small spacers on the caliper. If I ever build another SAS I would do exactly what he did. that kept abs functional and does not lift the truck to high like most SAS trucks. Obs SAS builds I've done ended up with 8-10 inches of lift which is more lift than practical. But with this burb I really want to keep it ifs and not extremely tall. the 5 inch lift it has now is taller than I planned was supposed to be a 3.5 inch lift but went up 5. The problem with using dodge hubs and losing abs is that screws up cruise control and traction control and will have lights on dash that make it impossible to inspect in certain states.

 

[Geotrash]

I tow heavy with mine and predict that the next investment you'll need to make will be in the cooling system - both for the engine (radiator) and the transmission (better cooler).

 

[87carl]

I tow heavy with mine and predict that the next investment you'll need to make will be in the cooling system - both for the engine (radiator) and the transmission (better cooler).

So far Temps haven't been a issue with it yet but I do plan to install a trans cooler and trans temp gauge this winter.

 

[87carl]

Finally remembered what they are called and within couple of minutes I found the solution to the upper ball joints. Tapered adapter sleeves. They go in the 2500 spindle or knuckle and then the 1500 ball joint fits in it. with them the 2500/3500 knuckle is a bolt on swap. stock lower ball joints fit. Tie rods can use sleeves like these or 15+ 2500 tie rod outers with 08 hybrid 1500 inner. 1500 cv axles fit 2500 hub bearings. I know people that used these adapters on dirt track cars and mustangs but couldn't think how to find them till few minutes ago.

https://www.4wheelparts.com/p/2005-Chevrolet-Tahoe-California-Super-TrucksCalifornia-Super-Trucks-Ball-Joint-Taper-Sleeve-CSS-C12-3/_/R-FJWS-CSS-C12-3?ppcfon=1&gp=1&ecmp=p:google_9816137034_102861481911__pla-302862171116&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=SC Shopping - Generic - MEDIUM MARGIN&gclid=CjwKCAiAs92MBhAXEiwAXTi254Ni6jU9xnGlhRvRevvE2tyhoyKINkuhir28UYWhNARlcUFE7k0M4xoCorAQAvD_BwE