AFM delete kit 13 Yukon Denali L94

[Hashiriya]

Agree with @Dustin Jackson. Keep in mind though, I haven’t used that kit, as my Yukon is the previous generation. However, I would definitely vouch for their part’s quality!

Where are you located? I’m in Texas, and also a Honda person. Just looking into doing a k swap on my EK if I can afford it. Lol.

Oh yeah, and welcome, from Texas!

Sweet. are there any parts that I don’t need from them? Are there parts I should get from GM?

And I’m in the dfw bro. I have a white Ep3 that’s k20a2 swap. I have a k20z3 I plan on frank swapping with a k24 block.

 

[Hashiriya]

I went a little different route for my cam swap, preferring to drop the VVT. I've found that there are 2 kinds of cam swap people: those who think VVT is worth keeping, and those who think it will eventually cause more problems than it's worth. I'm in the latter camp but have no quarrel with those in the former camp. I tow a lot and wanted reliability/durability above all. And I haven't missed the VVT down low at all. I have a 2007 with the factory cam that I often drive back to back with the 2012, and the 2012 with a Cam Motion Stage 2 truck cam is a beast by comparison.

For what it's worth, I only have 2 things that I consider absolutes though: 1/ Get OEM lifter trays only, and 2/ Get a cam designed specifically for the 6.2 - not one that's merely compatible with it. There's a significant difference between compatible with it and *optimized* for it. The flow dynamics of the 6.2 are significantly different than the 5.3 and lots of cam swap kits don't make a distinction.

I ran a BTR stage 2 tuck cam that was compatible with the 6.2 for a while and then went to a Cam Motion stage 2 designed for the 6.2. No comparison in towing performance.

2012 Yukon XL Denali 6.2L Cam Swap Thread

I love that Cam Motion measures each cam after grinding and finishing. Here's the cam card. Blub blub blub...

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

What cam would you recommend? I don’t mind an oem one, I heard the ls3 or ls7 or ls9 cam works? Correct me if I’m wrong, but since I wanna supercharge the motor, I heard I don’t need a cam with too much lift? Oh and I don’t want to get rid of vvt. My Honda blood wouldn’t allow it lmao vtec yo!

 

[Hashiriya]

Other than potential increased performance (and cost), what led you to this conclusion?

Yeah I don’t want anything crazy. I like the oem upgrades. That’s why the lsa is perfect for what I’m trying to achieve

 

[Hashiriya]

Congrats on the purchase!

Well, fwiw, and I hope I don't jinx you, but I was thinking the same when I was in the hunt for mine.

It seems that GM improved the AFM/DOD system after 2010.or 2010.5. To what extent, I'm not exactly sure but keeping a religious OCI of synthetic should treat you well.

I personally stick to 5K intervals, but no more than 6K. I bought my 2012 with 92K miles and it now has 120K, knock on glass, save my a$$, but has been working without issues.

I’m just gonna play it safe and get rid of it man lol

 

[Dustin Jackson]

@Hashiriya I’m not saying their cams are bad, the factory non AFM cam they were selling me just wasn’t the best one that came from factory. LM7 vs L33 if you’re curious.

It’s totally possible they have the cam you need, you just need to do research to find which cam you want to go with whether it be factory nonAFM or an aftermarket cam.

 

[Geotrash]

What cam would you recommend? I don’t mind an oem one, I heard the ls3 or ls7 or ls9 cam works? Correct me if I’m wrong, but since I wanna supercharge the motor, I heard I don’t need a cam with too much lift? Oh and I don’t want to get rid of vvt. My Honda blood wouldn’t allow it lmao vtec yo!

@Foggy would be the best one to advise you here as he ran an Edelbrock blower on his for a long time.

This is the one I have and I'm thrilled with it. Lots of power and smooth idle. Mine is the high lift version which works great with the BTR beehive valve springs. https://cammotion.com/camshafts/6-2-stage-2-ls-truck-camshaft-212-220-117-5/

 

[j91z28d1]

Other than potential increased performance (and cost), what led you to this conclusion?

the performance, and that my buddies that have had boosted corvettes always end up replacing the stock intercooler bricks cause they are a failure point and for better cooling. also they replace the lid of the stock lsa too.

from my quick search by the time i piece it all together and upgrade stuff. the kit is just a one shot deal and more upside and worth more to resell later.

 

[Foggy]

I don't 'think' the gen 5 cams work in our gen 4 engines.. due to the fuel pump lobe
but i'm not 100%
The gwatney cam I used was the smallest on the shelf VVT cam I could find..
I have NOT used it with my blower (yet). But I think with the large intake/exhaust SPLIT
it would work really well. Blowers like a wide lobe sep angle as well.. Like 114 -118.
So if blower/turbo is in the future avoid the 108-112 lobe seps.
I have seen the comp cams VVT (no dod) cams at Summit racing.. The smallest one
is the one I'd recommend. IT's pretty close in specs to the one I have.
If you are going to a medium or big cam : skip the VVT it won't have any advantages
VVT on the gen 4 "basically" just does cam timing retard in certain places of load/rpm
to relieve vacuum pressure and increase fuel mileage

 

[Foggy]

To add : the LS9 cam is really meant for a blown 6.2. If you run it NA it is dog...
It would prob work fine with any supercharger on it. And it's cheap. But NO VVT.
And you would still delete the VVT stuff and need diff timing set up.
The LS3 cam would be a pretty big jump in duration to the L94/L92 cam and would
take quite a bit of tuning and you would still lose a lot of low rpm power.

 

[j91z28d1]

so I'll go a different way with all this, cause this is how I'd do it if it was my truck.. and how i did my afm.

I wouldn't take the engine apart. I'd do the afm turn off in the ecm, and the mechanical side block off. I don't think most here feel it's it's the correct way to do but I trust it. so what the afm is **** is the lifters have 2 pins in them, when oil pressure is applied to a port in them, the pins release and the valve spring pressure collapses the lifter and it doesn't open the valve on that cyl. no fuel, no air fills the cyl = no compression, no load. 4cyl only making power. what I've read is with wear that lifter collapses and then sticks collapsed. so even thou ecm closed the oil supply solenoids off, it's stuck so the pins can't engage and lock the lifter back full sized. it's suck flopping around in there, breaks the plastic part that keeps the lifter from spinning, when it spins it eats the cam lobe. metal thru oil, all bad.

so you can replace everything with a delete kit for like 1000$?, or keep lifters from collapsing, and there for not getting stuck. to do that, you gotta make sure oil pressure doesn't get to that oil port in the lifter. to do that a guy sells a small kit, it's a bushing that goes in under your oil pressure sensor that blocks oil going to the solenoids, but as the lifters use oil for the normal hydraulic action from a different port, it's possible that oil bypasses internally, builds up pressure and the pins release, lifter collapses. to fix that there's a gasket between the lifter and the solenoids on the vlom that is easily accessible. you just clip that gasket and any oil pressure that happens to make it by just goes out thru there. in theory impossible for the lifter to release its pins ever again.

at that point you have a normal lifter setup, except 8 of them are a little heavier. but since you didn'treplace the cam with a higher rpm one and you're running a roots blower that makes all its power low end you're good. there's a whole youtube video showing all this and selling the part for like 15$. I've done it, super easy. I have no worries about my lifters failing. engine should outlast everything around it lol.


now for your blower.. add everything for the lsa up, I mean hp tuners, the hassle of having it tuned. all the little stuff and then compare to the maggy kit.. as I understand it reading the pdf files under the instructions, it comes with a flash port type thing, you go to their site, download the cal. flash the truck and it's good to go and in the end you have a better setup than a lsa too.

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compare that to the lsa kit that is 4500 for just the blower and drive. add the updated lid, some injectors and you're almost 7k and you haven't tuned it or upgrades the intercooler yet.

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that's why I figured I'd just do the maggy upfront, drive out my garage after a weekend if install and go beat on it.

Edelbrock does have a kit too, but I know zero about it. worth check into before you buy thou.