Alternator Voltage Booster

[highrollin113]

im assuming that you went with just the stage 1? if so has anyone tried the stage 2

 

[HMFDZ28]

smaller pulley won't get you more voltage it will just increase your idle output
I would stick to the Big III or if you want better voltage take a look at the MLA or PowerMaster VCM both way more expensive than the plug you posted but are purpose made and will get the job done and then some

OP what are you sitting at when you start the truck?

Thats exactly when most people have problems.... at idle. If you Alternator isnt cutting it off idle you need an upgrade. I would deff Agree with ya to do the Big 3 first though.

 

[denalianyone]

Well I already have the big 3...and I didnt buy this part becuase I was experiencing voltage problems.

---------- Post added at 10:21 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:19 AM ----------

i need an idle increase so im prolly gonna get a smaller pulley for mine as well as the big three... every time i come to a stop my voltage drops to bout 9.5 give or take a lil.... and thats with every accessory off and completely bone stock....


Anyone recommend a good size pulley?

If it drops that low then you have other problems.

---------- Post added at 10:22 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:21 AM ----------

im assuming that you went with just the stage 1? if so has anyone tried the stage 2

I dont recommend stage 2.

 

[JennaBear]

I would just install an overdrive pulley.

 

[Thumper8302]

i could just prolly have an alternator that goin out lol.. oh well

 

[Xowner]

they sell dual mount kits with an alternator for around $400 that would be the best way to do it

 

[Eagle]

it's a resistor for an externally regulated Alternator. Tricks the voltage reference so it works harder putting out higher voltage, but note this does NOT mean more CURRENT (amps). It is still going to be the same maximum output. You could do the same thing yourself

Do you really need to run around at 14.8 volts instead of 13.7?
(cons) It isn't better for the battery.
The optimum float charging voltage ('trickle') for a fully charged 12.6v lead-acid battery is about 13.2 volts, while 14.2 (under load voltage) is more than adequate for charging a battery that was still capable of starting a vehicle.
It isn't better for any electronics which regulate out the excess voltage as heat.
It adds additional drag and reduces mpg by working harder when it really isn't needed.


(pro) It would make your filament lights brighter at the expense of life, and make your spark a little hotter, so I could see it being useful in an offroad racing truck or a drag vehicle.


You'd be better off IMO with the 'normal' voltage and not dicking around with stuff.
IF you are not getting the proper voltage, check connections and/or replace the alternator, don't slave drive it to an early grave.
Especially since these GM alternators don't seem to be very well cooled for their output. In contrast my 1992 BMW with a 140 amp alternator had a dedicated cold air intake feeding a large internal fan. It had 200,000 miles and 18 years of trouble free use when I sold the car.

 

[thehoe92]

just for a reference I idle at 15.2v
cold starts I'll see 15.6v
rarely do I ever see a 14.6 or below

how are you dropping to 9.5v and a.) the car is still running and b.) you don't have any accessories on?

 

[Eagle]

so you are running 14 volt batteries and a 16v alternator? or is your alternator just ******?

 

[JennaBear]

it's a resistor for an externally regulated Alternator. Tricks the voltage reference so it works harder putting out higher voltage, but note this does NOT mean more CURRENT (amps). It is still going to be the same maximum output. You could do the same thing yourself

X2

There are some voltage dependent parameters, something that tricks the regulator, would also trick the computer. Not something that would be good for any vehicle.