Aluminum / XFE NNBS Front Suspension Rebuild

[Noggles]

Yes. That’s why I didn’t go that route. I figured if I wasn’t going to use the aluminum knuckles, there was no point. The knuckles are the only part that is 100% unsprung weight, I don’t know the math but since the control arms are attached to the frame and the shock, the weight reduction of the lower arm wouldn’t be the full weight savings but partial. I didn’t feel it was worth it unless I raised the truck back to stock height and did the aluminum knuckle.

I did the OEM aluminum arms for the 900 body style with the correct smaller ball joints and left all the other pieces I already had. The aluminum/stamped steel upper arms don’t weigh much different than the iron uppers either. Then I also got new wheels that are lighter and replaced the front shocks with new OEM since they were still original. I feel like it made a pretty significant difference but we haven’t taken any trips yet.

I was mostly interested in the aluminum arms so it's one less steel part to rust long term. Not that there's a huge amount of issue with that but also so it comes with brand new bushings and ball joints already installed. Just makes sense for my needs to do the whole setup. Just wish there were aluminum drop spindles available.

 

[91RS]

If you’re at stock height, it makes much more sense. But, the only way to get aluminum arms now is to take your chances on quality with aftermarket replacement parts because the OEM aluminum arms have been replaced by the stamped steel, which weigh a tad more. Still less than the iron ones though. I didn’t want to get into an argument since I saw someone say the OEM stamped steel arms are bad quality, but there’s nothing with them. The ball joints on the aluminum arms seemed to wear out as early as 60k miles but the ones in the stamped steel arms are generally lasting 100k plus.

One interesting thing I just saw the other day, Nolathane is coming out with bushings for the front control arms! They’re on a preorder on their web site right now. The bushings haven’t been replaceable before. I’m actually wondering if I could find a set of used OEM aluminum lower arms that came on the 15 and 16, replace the ball joints with the correct ones for the 900, and put in the Nolathane bushings for my 08.

 

[swathdiver]

There are important exceptions to this rule, like Cognito MotorSports and Kryptonite Suspension.
There are others, but they'd tend to be summarily dismissed by those who insist on the above as an iron rule.
Close is easily believable, but after a decade or more, far more likely that AC Delco changed suppliers,
than GM OE is 'new old stock' waiting around.

Remind me when you see me do it! LOL

Not all ACDelco is GM OE. GM does try and improve replacement parts, the CV Axles for ours are an example, 84842044.

 

[Marky Dissod]

Anyone willing to experiment so that we can all learn from the results gets my endorsement.

(I'm looking for assistance in modding my Tahoe into a 'Z60' using my VERY loose definition of 'GM OE' ...)

 

[Noggles]

If you’re at stock height, it makes much more sense. But, the only way to get aluminum arms now is to take your chances on quality with aftermarket replacement parts because the OEM aluminum arms have been replaced by the stamped steel, which weigh a tad more. Still less than the iron ones though. I didn’t want to get into an argument since I saw someone say the OEM stamped steel arms are bad quality, but there’s nothing with them. The ball joints on the aluminum arms seemed to wear out as early as 60k miles but the ones in the stamped steel arms are generally lasting 100k plus.

One interesting thing I just saw the other day, Nolathane is coming out with bushings for the front control arms! They’re on a preorder on their web site right now. The bushings haven’t been replaceable before. I’m actually wondering if I could find a set of used OEM aluminum lower arms that came on the 15 and 16, replace the ball joints with the correct ones for the 900, and put in the Nolathane bushings for my 08.

There's always a catch some place lol. I guess I need to read through all of this thread because I had no idea they had been replaced. Guess it kinda puts a damper in my aluminum suspension and aluminum engine swap plans lol

 

[petethepug]

The Esky had several piles of parts stuffed inside for the trip to Aluminumville.

The truck is officially in the shop and waiting for an empty bay to start on Monday.

 

[petethepug]

I called SKF today. Great guys. Soo many applications. Specifically targeting the SKF hybrid hub assemblies # BR930661. Yes, grease them.

The bearing maint guide …

https://cdn.skfmediahub.skf.com/api/public/0901d1968013be94/pdf_preview_medium/0901d1968013be94_pdf_preview_medium.pdf

 

[kbuskill]

I called SKF today. Great guys. Soo many applications. Specifically targeting the SKF hybrid hub assemblies # BR930661. Yes, grease them.

The bearing maint guide …

https://cdn.skfmediahub.skf.com/api/public/0901d1968013be94/pdf_preview_medium/0901d1968013be94_pdf_preview_medium.pdf

Did they happen to tell you what type of grease to use?

I would hate to cause a nuclear winter because I used the wrong grease.

 

[petethepug]

Oh yea, SKF LGMT 2 or an oil based lithium / soap based grease. This stuff is mineral based.

The world opens up and lets out all the dark creatures when you mix ester based lubes with mineral based. Same thing goes with a/c oils being mixed between r12 & r134a.

 

[kbuskill]

Oh yea, SKF LGMT 2 or an oil based lithium / soap based grease. This stuff is mineral based.

The world opens up and lets out all the dark creatures when you mix ester based lubes with mineral based. Same thing goes with a/c oils being mixed between r12 & r134a.

So if I am reading the chart that @Scrappycrow posted, it would appear that the Red "N" Tacky grease is compatible with the SKF grease specs.